At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The Motor Controller has detected excess current in the motor or electronic switches. This fault has occurred momentarily. Primary Source: Wiring. Action: Check the wiring connections from the Motor Controller to the Stator and the Rotor Position Sensor. Secondary Source: Motor. Action 1) Measure/check the motor harness, connectors and motor for shorts. This can be done by taking a resistance measurement between phases of the motor harness at the Motor Control module end. Nominal resistance should be around 12.2 ohm for Phase 2, 3 & Phase 4. For Phase 5 and 6 Smart Drive the nominal resistance should be around 32 ohms. 2) Check the Rotor Positional Sensor, Stator brass bridge terminal point and associated harness for water, mechanical damage or corrosion. Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module. Action If all the above show no signs of fault then replace the Motor Controller module. Also check for water leaks from the cooling chamber or valves that could possibly come in contact with the Motor Controller and fix the leak before replacing with new Motor Controller module.
If You are wanting to avoid the high price of an official replacement, you can use an exhaust fan motor from an inexpensive exhaust fan from a home center- but you will need to locate a 24 volt transformer of about 1 Amp capacity -24 Volt Amps. These are used in furnaces so one pulled from a scrapped furnace will also save some cash.
It is a matter of locating the transformer out of the way, then clipping the wires that go from the control board to the old fan motor, Locations on the PC board of 12 and 13 and making those connections. Then running the primary leads and the new fan leads together to the AC power coming in. On 220, you are only going from one hot to return, so your nominal votlage for fan and transformer remain at 115 volts. Terminals 11 and 15 on the Control board.
Since the original was a nominal 24 volts, using a discrete transformer may leave you with a faster than expected feed rate you cannot slow down significantly. If that happens,either put resistance in series with the transformer output, 1,2 or 4 Ohms will slow it down some, as will changing the speed control potentiometer itself.
Miller used a 2500 Ohm linear taper potentiometer in most cases. Raisng the resistance to 5000 Ohms will also slow down the feed rate and using a 1000 ohm linear taper potentiometer will speed it up as well.
You're not going to be able to do this with just a known Horse Power.
There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.
If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)
Watts divided by volts = Amps
Examples:
A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps
Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)
Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:
At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps
Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time. 2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps
Watts / Volts = Amps Amps x Volts = Watts Watts divided by amps = Volts
From my experience they are very durable! I have two pressure washers, and two sump pumps that I have built using these pumps and they hold up to hard use.
The sump pumps are used for draining flooded basement and also new foundation pours flooding. So they have had some hard use. I am in the process of building a sump pump for my daughters swimming pool using their pump also.
One CON - make sure you COMPLETELY drain them in freezing weather AND blow air through them to completely dry them.
excessive oil consumption and smoking is usually due to worn rings and/or valve guides in the engine. If you observe blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe, it signals a worn out engine.
If no external leaks, that's what it is. Maybe try to change the oil with a high mileage oil when changing the oil and filter.
I'm afraid, that these conditions don't get better with time.
A replacement motor, or overhaul of the present one is recommended if you cannot pass emissions tests in your area if required by law.
These are know for having a leaking gasket on the bottom of the intake that will cause oil consumption. To test for this take the pcv valve out of the passenger side valve cover and the crankcase filter out of the driver side. With the engine running put your thumbs over the holes in both valve covers. It should build pressure. If you feel it pulling a vacuum, the gasket is leaking. You have to remove the intake and flip it over on a bench to change the pan gasket on the bottom.
×