Governor,carb problem ok have husqvarna LGT2654 26hp vtwin mower, carb has complety rebuilt, new fuel line, filters , oil, filter, starts runs great, throttle up and engage blades it cuts out and governor idles it down to barley runnnig, u can move governor linkage and it will throttle back up?

SOURCE: Sputters & quits at proper RPM for engaging trans or mowing deck

If the choke has an adjustment point, then adjust the choke to a good overall working powerband. If it still doesn't act correctly, look for vacuum leaks. If it is an option, you may want to install a manually operated choke lever.

SOURCE: mower will start but not stay running

the mower seems to be running fine now. after i read a solution to another readers question on a different problem, thought i'd give it a try. i took off the bowl. it was filthy, so i cleaned it out, checked the float, and put it back no. then reconnected the fuel line, and cranked her up. problem fixed so far. thanks fixit guys.

SOURCE: craftsman lt 1000 wont stay running

Take a paperclip and clean out the small hole on your gas cap. And yes I am being serious.

SOURCE: engine runs but sputters after engaging blades

ck for water in carb bowl. also ck for filter in gas tank, or something in gas tank.

SOURCE: throttle control won't work after i cleaned the

Hi again Ed,
Starting at the carb throttle shaft, your linkage rod (with tiny spring wrapped around it) should be connected directly to the governor's arm. If there's more than one hole in the arm, connect the rod in the upper-most hole.
Now, at the base of the governor's arm is another hole (possibly on a tab jutting from the arm). The main governor spring should be hooked in this hole and then back to the sliding throttle control that moves when the lever on the dash is moved. (This one definitely has a tab and hole.)

The choke cable end hooks directly on the choke shaft and it has intuitive movement. Verify that the choke butterfly closes and opens relative to the cable control on the tractor's dash.

To insure that we only do this procedure ONCE, and we get it right the first time, let's set the internal governor to base-line at this time.

With everything bolted back up, move the throttle control lever on the tractor's dash to full throttle. Then get a 3/8 wrench and a slotted screwdriver and locate the round governor shaft coming out of the engine block. The governor arm attaches to this with a clamping-bolt. You will notice that the round shaft is slotted for a screwdriver as well.
Loosen the clamping bolt slightly with your 3/8 wrench, insert your screwdriver and rotate the round shaft clockwise until it stops. (It has VERY little travel, so turn it both ways to verify that your are at FULL clockwise position.)
Hold screwdriver there and move the governor's arm in the same (clockwise) direction until the carb's throttle is set to WIDE OPEN throttle. Still holding the screwdriver clockwise, retighten the clamping bolt with the wrench.
Next, move the throttle lever on the dash of the tractor to idle and back to full several times and observe the carb's throttle shaft, it should come down from full throttle to idle and back again freely.

Start the engine and be prepared to shut it off if it over-revs.
If it doesn't over-rev, your base-line settings are correct.

By bending the tab on the sliding throttle control (the one that has the main spring attached) you can now increase or decrease spring tension and change top speed of the engine. Do this in small increments and if you have a tachometer for single cylinder's set top speed to 3400-3600 RPM.

Sorry this is lengthy, but as mentioned above, we only want to do this once.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask away if you need more info!
Dolf-

Testimonial: "thanks for the advice , i got the mower running well now. ed"