Starting sequence - Weed Eater Fl26 Feather Lite Plus String Trimmer

Just start the sequence from the center bolt and work your way out from there by half torque first then full torque final. Always start from center and work outwards, that way you can torque heads without knowing the OEM sequence.

This is usually a problem caused by a bad water temperature sensor. There are usually 2 sensors with one working the temperature gauge and the second working engine controls.

The "cold start" sequence is similar to a choke in old cars. It needs the signal from the water sensor to trigger the cold start sequence. The cold start sequence enriches the fuel charge, adjusts timing, and increases idle speed until the engine gets a little warm.

Now if stalling when warm, you have other issues. Manifold runners are a problem on some engines.

the head bolt torque is 130 +or- 5ftlbs and as far as sequence if not sure start in the middle of the head and work your way out alternating side to side and in an X. Step up to 130 by starting at 80-100-115-130.

Do a continuity test on the heating elements, and if they're good then do the same on the sequencers or contactors, whichever you have. The sequencers (or if you have contactors turn on the heating elements). All the fan does is blow air. It blows against the heating element to put out hot air. Either your sequencers/contactor or your heating element is defective.Wait,each sequencers is connected to a fuse.Check the sequencer fuse too. Find the sequencer/contactor wherever the wire feeding the heating element is coming from.

The most likely cause is one or more of the safety features are engaged during the attempt to remote start. The lights should flash a sequence that corresponds to the reason for failure to start. Your owners manual will describe what the sequence means. Based from experience, I suspect that the hood pinswitch has malfunctioned or damaged so the system thinks the hood is opened thus preventing starting.

Torque sequence: ----------------- there are two rows of fasteners and you need to start with the middle 2 fasteners first and then work your way toward the front and back in steps. Step 1: torque head bolts #1,2,3,4,5,6,7, & 9 in sequence to 10 Ft/Lbs Step 2: torque head bolts #1,2,3,4,5,6,7, & 9 in sequence to 20 Ft/Lbs Step 3: torque head bolts #1,2,3,4,5,6,7, & 9 in sequence to 29 Ft/Lbs Step 4: turn all head bolts in sequence an additional 90 degrees Step 5: turn all head bolts in sequence an additional 90-degrees recheck final torque in sequence. Fasteners are supposed to be replaced if they are removed since they are torque-to-yeild fasteners.

7 - 5 - 1 - 3 - 10
front
9 - 4 - 2 - 6 - 8

Lack of maintenance.

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Well first do what joe said about checking the Plug on the Display, <Here's another solution did you also check the cables( Power Cables going to the format bd ? Sometimes you can bent those pins easily, I have seen it and ok I done it once on HP 4 plus when i first started out as a tech ? Check that ? May I asked What was the reason for replacing the Formatter board in the first Place ? were you getting an error ?

try the reset button sequence i posted in the other question..

there might be some dirt on thermistor above the heater upper roller pls check and clean the fuser unit then use simulation 14 to reset the machine enter simulation by presssing #,interrupt,c,interrupt in sequence display is then off, then no. 14 then start key h2 disappears ok