Wont draw a prim

https://youtu.be/DZrcO6I_86U?si=8UxSziZ2h5u7-X4F

Time stamp 55 seconds.

-Every small engine that comes with the prim Bold. You need to prim (Press) couple time before start. This is normal and always.
-You say you have to prim before it can start. This is normal.

Your machine is good. No need to replace any thing.


Good luck and enjoy it
Mai

this must be a seriously clogged up carb or fuel supply , id use a gentle blast of compressed air to b sure the fuel supply line is clear and its pumping gas up to carb then a thorough carb cleaning is in order as well

I think I understand Krystal, Prim and Proper was used to describe any Woman that was Perfect in every way, Mary Poppins comes to mind... Prim described Her Regal Bearing and Impeccable Style while Proper described Her Manners, Intelligence & Heart.

check the solenoid on the bottom of the carb they stick and shut fuel off threw the carb

this means the machine still thinks the draw is open so ofcoarse will not start, the sensor that detects the draw being shut is on the left hand side of the unit when u pull the draw out u will see 2 little clear squares on the side up the top near the control panel make sure they are clean aswell as the recieving end on the cabinet is clean as they r simple infrared sensors so if the beam of light is obstructed it wont think it is shut as the beam of light comes out of the control board and bounces off a light refracting prism and then sends it back to the board so if the beam cant return it wont start if they are all clean then you r looking at replacing the main control board as the sensor is contained within it

First, blow the fuel pipe with a strong air jet & change the filter. If this didn't work, change the main fuel pump (do NOT repair).

What is the fuel pressure? if its not 60 psi, it needs a pump.

under neath the carby is a single brass bolt, undo it
that one bolt is a multi jet, find four holes use a fine pin and carby cleaner ,hint one is at the top were the thread starts , one is in the inside center and two in the sides put it back in and prim and start, hope it helps

You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

(If you keep the master cylinder full of hydraulic fluid, sometimes gravity will cause the line to 'self bleed' if the bleed nipple is left slightly open for several minutes at the start of the bleed process).
When fluid appears, finish the slave cylinder air bleed in the normal way.

If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).