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Charlie Ballard Posted on Jul 06, 2015
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My Electrolux EDV 605clothes dryer is turning but not heating, heating element is ok possible faulty thermistor, dryer heats up when thermistor is unplugged but has an error code of 5 beeps

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Dado

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  • Electrolux Master 511 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 17, 2015
Dado
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Joined: Aug 05, 2011
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I think you're absolutely right exhaust sensor is faulty.

The buzzer will give 5 beeps, all program LEDs will flash for 5 seconds and the dryer will continue with the cycle. The warning beeps and flashing LEDs will occur every 30 seconds.
On Timer Drying programs it will run for the time remaining and in Sensor Drying programs it will run for 90 minutes. As the exhaust air temperature can not be sensed the element will be cycled on and off at a preset amount. The cycling time of the element will vary depending on the amount of time remaining.

NOTE: When this fault exists the dryer can still be used but regardless of the Sensor Drying program selected the dryer will use the 90 minute Timer Drying program, Timer Drying programs will use the selected program, and with both types of programs the element will cycle as above. The buzzer will also still be sounding.

If an exhaust sensor fault is detected the buzzer will beep and the Reminder Clean the Filter LED will flash. The LED flashes at different rates depending what is wrong with the sensor -

Fast (4 per second) = open circuit senor, broken wiring or multi pin plug not correctly fitted to the control board.
Slow (2 per second) = Short circuit in sensor or wiring.

The sensor resistance at different temperatures is as shown below.

Temperature (Celsius) Resistence (Ohms)
55 2960
50 3570
45 4330
40 5280
35 6490
30 8030
25 10000
20 12555
15 15880
10 20260
5 26080
0 33870

As you can see this is NTC thermistor with Negative Temperature Coefficient , means if temperature increasing the resistance decreasing.

Dado

  • 1 more comment 
  • Dado Oct 17, 2015

    I think you're absolutely right exhaust sensor is faulty.



    The buzzer will give 5 beeps, all program LEDs will flash for 5 seconds and the dryer will continue with the cycle. The warning beeps and flashing LEDs will occur every 30 seconds.

    On Timer Drying programs it will run for the time remaining and in Sensor Drying programs it will run for 90 minutes. As the exhaust air temperature can not be sensed the element will be cycled on and off at a preset amount. The cycling time of the element will vary depending on the amount of time remaining.



    NOTE: When this fault exists the dryer can still be used but regardless of the Sensor Drying program selected the dryer will use the 90 minute Timer Drying program, Timer Drying programs will use the selected program, and with both types of programs the element will cycle as above. The buzzer will also still be sounding.



    If an exhaust sensor fault is detected the buzzer will beep and the Reminder Clean the Filter LED will flash. The LED flashes at different rates depending what is wrong with the sensor -



    Fast (4 per second) = open circuit senor, broken wiring or multi pin plug not correctly fitted to the control board.

    Slow (2 per second) = Short circuit in sensor or wiring.



    The sensor resistance at different temperatures is as shown below.



    Temperature (Celsius) Resistence (Ohms)



    55 2960

    50 3570

    45 4330

    40 5280

    35 6490

    30 8030

    25 10000

    20 12555

    15 15880

    10 20260

    5 26080

    0 33870



    As you can see this is NTC thermistor with Negative Temperature Coefficient , means if temperature increasing the resistance decreasing.



    Dado


  • Dado Oct 17, 2015

    I think you're absolutely right exhaust sensor is faulty.



    The buzzer will give 5 beeps, all program LEDs will flash for 5 seconds and the dryer will continue with the cycle. The warning beeps and flashing LEDs will occur every 30 seconds.

    On Timer Drying programs it will run for the time remaining and in Sensor Drying programs it will run for 90 minutes. As the exhaust air temperature can not be sensed the element will be cycled on and off at a preset amount. The cycling time of the element will vary depending on the amount of time remaining.



    NOTE: When this fault exists the dryer can still be used but regardless of the Sensor Drying program selected the dryer will use the 90 minute Timer Drying program, Timer Drying programs will use the selected program, and with both types of programs the element will cycle as above. The buzzer will also still be sounding.



    If an exhaust sensor fault is detected the buzzer will beep and the Reminder Clean the Filter LED will flash. The LED flashes at different rates depending what is wrong with the sensor -



    Fast (4 per second) = open circuit senor, broken wiring or multi pin plug not correctly fitted to the control board.

    Slow (2 per second) = Short circuit in sensor or wiring.



    The sensor resistance at different temperatures is as shown below.



    Temperature (Celsius)-----------------Resistence (Ohms)



    55 ------------------------------------2960

    50 ------------------------------------3570

    45 ------------------------------------4330

    40 ------------------------------------5280

    35 ------------------------------------6490

    30 ------------------------------------8030

    25 -----------------------------------10000

    20 -----------------------------------12555

    15 -----------------------------------15880

    10 -----------------------------------20260

    5 -----------------------------------26080

    0 -----------------------------------33870



    As you can see this is NTC thermistor with Negative Temperature Coefficient , means if temperature increasing the resistance decreasing.



    Dado

  • Dado Oct 17, 2015

    I think you're absolutely right exhaust sensor is faulty.



    The buzzer will give 5 beeps, all program LEDs will flash for 5 seconds and the dryer will continue with the cycle. The warning beeps and flashing LEDs will occur every 30 seconds.

    On Timer Drying programs it will run for the time remaining and in Sensor Drying programs it will run for 90 minutes. As the exhaust air temperature can not be sensed the element will be cycled on and off at a preset amount. The cycling time of the element will vary depending on the amount of time remaining.



    NOTE: When this fault exists the dryer can still be used but regardless of the Sensor Drying program selected the dryer will use the 90 minute Timer Drying program, Timer Drying programs will use the selected program, and with both types of programs the element will cycle as above. The buzzer will also still be sounding.



    If an exhaust sensor fault is detected the buzzer will beep and the Reminder Clean the Filter LED will flash. The LED flashes at different rates depending what is wrong with the sensor -



    Fast (4 per second) = open circuit senor, broken wiring or multi pin plug not correctly fitted to the control board.

    Slow (2 per second) = Short circuit in sensor or wiring.



    The sensor resistance at different temperatures is as shown below.



    Temperature (Celsius)-----------------Resistence (Ohms)



    55 ------------------------------------2960

    50 ------------------------------------3570

    45 ------------------------------------4330

    40 ------------------------------------5280

    35 ------------------------------------6490

    30 ------------------------------------8030

    25 -----------------------------------10000

    20 -----------------------------------12555

    15 -----------------------------------15880

    10 -----------------------------------20260

    5 -----------------------------------26080

    0 -----------------------------------33870



    As you can see this is NTC thermistor is with Negative Temperature Coefficient , means if temperature increasing the resistance decreasing.



    Dado

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1122 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 19, 2009

SOURCE: how do i change the heating element in my dryer

it's way to hard afor a lay person,call for repair-mike

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protek480

Craig Butler

  • 1730 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 02, 2009

SOURCE: whirlpool duet not heating, replaced thermistor

If it just won't heat, it's a thermostat issue (most likely). You can try a different setting and check if it works. There are different thermostats for different settings. Also there is a contact that is operated by the motor to insure that the drum is turning for heat.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Sep 03, 2009

SOURCE: My bottome dryer wont heat up but the top dryer heats

I have the same problem and called a repair center to fix. They came out last Thursday and and ordered the parts (thermite and thermo fuse). Waiting for a call that they received and ready to repair.

Anonymous

  • 43501 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 11, 2010

SOURCE: my dryer is turning but not heating. How hard is

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Anonymous

  • 1554 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 14, 2011

SOURCE: My Dryer is turning on

The problem is a broken drive belt or it has slipped off the idler pulley. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel and reinstall the drive belt over the motor and idler pulleys. If the drive belt cannot be reinstalled from the rear access panel or if it has been broken and needs to be replaced, you have to tear down the dryer from the top to the front panel.

Remove the screws attaching the to panel to the rear of the dryer then slide the panel rearward and off. Remove the screws holding the control panel to the inside of the dryer cabinet then lift up and roll it forward. Remove the screws securing the top of the front panel to the cabinet then lean the panel forward and disconnect the door switch wire harness. Lift up on the panel and set it aside.

Remove the front bulkhead then take the drum out through the front. Install the drive belt around the drum then over the motor and idler pulleys. Put the dryer back together in reverse order of the tear down process.

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How do I get rid of code? I have an Electrolux front load dryer model #EIMED55IIWO, with E 64 error code. When initially starting the dryer I cancel the code and start the dryer.

E64 error code Electrolux dryer! E64 fault code on your home Electrolux clothes dryer. What this code stands for is that you have a shorted heating element. Other Possible fault: Heater thermostat faulty: Wiring faulty; Electronic board faulty.
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I have Samsung gas dryer model DV410. no heat, replaced two thermal fuse and hi low limit. Now it only works with timed cycle mode. the rest mode, it runs only for least the 5 minutes and shut off.

timed cycle mean dryer not on sensor dry mode. check wire connection on moisture sensor bars (i think you forget to put 2 wire connector put together). when you use other cycle dryer use moisture sensor to dry cloths so sensor not working dryer will stop in 5 minutes or so because dryer think there are no wet cloths to dry. hope this help you.
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Not heating, no fault codes, everything seems normal. Checked heat exchanger ok, flow switches ok, thermal reset ok just no power to the ceramic heating elements please help me ;-(

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!
Apr 28, 2015 • Dryers
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1answer

Replaced heating element,2 relays & still no heat. Checked 220. ok if the door switch makes the dryer run, could it still be the door switch that won't let it heat?

Hi margorothehis..
Yes, it is possible the door switch is faulty not allowing it to heat.
I will send you my generic fix, you have already checked some of these,you might have missed one.
Please rate me
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me
Sep 03, 2011 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Not blowing hot air

Hi buickrapture...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.

If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me
0helpful
1answer

Pulled out heating element both black wires connecting heating element are burned is this mean its a faulty heating element

Hi franklin bai

Yes the element is faulty...replace it...but also check some other things...see below

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks.
If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the
wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed
component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame.
Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed.
If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause
heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the
thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape
or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged
with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's
plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace an element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me
0helpful
1answer

I have a whirlpool dryer. What is a element on the dryer.

The Element you ask about is normally called the Heating Element or Heating Coil. It is what heats up, then the blower blows air over the heated coils to dry your clothes.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil. You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty. If the heating coil is ok, then: You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape. If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor. DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine. I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx Both also have chat assistance 24/7. Good Luck, Hope this helps Please rate me, Thank you
Dec 31, 2009 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

NO HEAT FRON DRYER , DRUM OK

either your heating element,hi-limit switch,cycling heat switch, thermistor,control panel, or you don't have 240 volts supplying the dryer,120volts will still let the drum turn or the timer count-down, its the way there wired
Nov 01, 2009 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Is it possible for a reasonably competent DIY person to change the Dryer Heater Element on the Hotpoint Washer Dryer Model No WD420P

Yes if he/she has the proper tools and ability it will be possible for that person to change a heating element. If he/she decides to do so then the following instructions may help.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps
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