Installed correctly last night, do not have even a drop of water at the Fawcett. 40 psi on tank

Putting 60 lbs. of pressure in the pressure tank is not the answer.

First determine that the pump is working correctly, Open the drain valve and see if you get a good flow of water. If you do then OK, the pump is working. If you are not getting a good water flow from the drain valve, then the pump is not operating correctly - maybe a bad foot valve. Next open the drain valve and watch the water pressure gauge, and note at what pressure the pump kicks on ( that's the cut-in pressure), and when it kicks off ( that's the cut-out pressure). Most pumps are set to operate at 20-40 psi, or 30-50 psi. The cut-in and cut-out pressure is set by the water pressure switch.The pressure in the water tank has to be set 2 psi BELOW the cut-in pressure of the pump. That is, if the pump has a 20-40 psi differential, then the tank has to be pre-charged to 18 psi.

To pre- charge the pressure tank , the pump has to be shut off. The Tank needs to be emptied (drained ) of water. The air pressure is then set to 2 psi BELOW the cut-in pressure. If water escapes from the air valve, the bladder in the tank is ruptured, and a new tank needs to be installed.

So, first make sure the pump is working.
I WOULD RELIEVE MOST OF THE PRESSURE IN THE PRESSURE TANK TO ABOUT 20 PSI BEFORE CHECKING THE PUMP, AND PRCEEDING WITH THE PRE-CHARGE OF THE TANK.

The 34 psi of the pressure tank sounds high, but it depends on what the cut-in pressure is set at in the pump pressure switch. Typically the pressure switch is for 20-40 psi or 30-50 psi. To establish what the pre-charge of tank should be , you need to establish what the pressure switch setting are (i.e 20 - 40 psi , etc.) Run the water and watch the pressure gauge and note at what pressure the pump comes on. The pressure tank needs to be pre charged 2 -4 psi below that cut-in pressure. So if the cut-in pressure is say 30 psi, then the tank needs to be pre charged to 28 psi.
To pre charge the pressure tank, turn the pump off. Drain the pressure tank of water to relieve all pressure in the tank. Then check the pressure of the tank at the air valve. Set the pressure to 2 psi below what the cut-in pressure is.
If you adjust the pressure switch, say from 20-40 to 30-50, you will need to go through the procedure of re adjusting the pressure in the tank. I hope this helps....

The pump pressure switch should be checked to see what the ON-OFF pressure is set at. Typically the pressure switch is set for 20-40 psi, or 30-50 psi. The pressure tank should be purged as well. With the pump OFF, and the tank drained of water, the air valve on the tank should read approximately 2 psi below the "on pressure". So if the system operates at 20-40, the tank should be pre-charged to 18 psi. If water escapes from the air valve, the internal bladder in the tank is ruptured, and the tank needs to be replaced. A tire air gauge is used to measure the pressure in the tank after the water is emptied from the tank.. A tire air pump or a compressor is used to charge the tank. if a compressor is used, be careful not to over-inflate the tank, as this may cuase the bladder to rupture.

the solenoid just opens and closes the tap and is rated only for a max pressure of 40 psi
and higher and it will not shut off properly
your fix for this problem will be a small pressure controlled pump connected before the water to the washer so that when the washer requires water the drop in preset line pressure will activate the pump and produce pressure up to the 40 psi
when the washer shuts of the water requirement, the pump stops operation until the next water requirement cycle
such units are used in RV units , caravans , homes using tank water supply and can be obtained from irrigation and pump shops , or caravan places and some marine boat shops as the same units are used on board

You should change filters and membrane and then proceed. Replace both filters not one. You mat to buy new RO unit that you can find filters on line ie store (less than you are going to pay for Culligan) PROCEDURE FOR RECHARGING REVERSE OSMOSIS BLADDER TANK WITH AIR
When you turn on the faucet you notice low water pressure from the storage tank and only a quick burst of water come out of the system, and it dies down to trickles. Is the tank defective, i.e., bladder has hole and not functioning properly? Perhaps.

If you have the above problem and the tank is heavy (full), then try to relief the pressure from the air valve on the tank side. Is water coming out? If the answer is yes, then the bladder has hole and is defective, and tank replacement is due. If air comes out then it is possible that the air needs to be recharged.

Notes on bladder tank, please continue reading:

RO Tank useful life is 5-7 years. If the tank has been serving you for that long it is possible that the bladder had a hole and that tank replacement is due. If the tank is not that old, it is worth it to evaluate it for air pressure. In an empty tank, air pressure should be 7-10 psi. In a full/heavy tank, air pressure should be 30-40 psi. To be accurate, air pressure should be 2/3 of incoming water pressure. When the tank is full, and if feed water pressure to the RO system is 60 psi, then a full tank should have 40 psi. The RO tank has a bladder inside, and this bladder separates air from water. On the lower side of the tank is the air valve which is connected to the compressed air chamber. The top water inlet/outlet port (where the tank valve is mounted) is connected to the pure water chamber. So, when you turn on the faucet, the compressed air would squeeze or compress the bladder to force the water out of the tank.

You do not want to believe the tank is useless and want to do extra testing? If your answer is yes, please continue reading.

TOOLS NEEDED FOR TESTING:

1. An air compressor or air pump (like a bicycle tire air pump)

2. An air pressure gauge that is able to read less than 10 psi, and

3. Adjustable wrench.

STEPS:

1. Shut off the water supply to the RO system

2. Turn on the faucet to allow water to run until it stops.

3. Check to see if there is still water in the storage tank by lifting the tank. If the tank feels heavy, that means you need to recharge the tank and continue the following steps. If the tank feels light, that means you don't need to charge your storage tank at this moment.

4. Locate the air valve on the side of the tank. It looks like the air valve on tires.

5. Use air compressor or air pump to pump air into the tank. Keep the faucet on while pumping air, so that all water inside the tank can be purged out.

6. After all water has been drained from the tank, use an air pressure gauge to check the tank pressure.

7. The tank should have 7 psi of pressure when it's empty. Add or purge air if necessary.

8. Turn the feed water valve back on, and turn off the faucet to allow refilling of the tank.

9. finished.

What if the tank does not hold pressure and you see the same problem again? Bladder is out and you need to replace the tank.

DOES THIS SYSTEM FEED YOUR HOME.DOES IT HAVE PSI TANK. WHAT COULD BE HAPPENING.IS.THERE IS A PRESSURE SWITCH (fyg-2) THAT WAS INSTALLED ON YOUR SYSTEM. THIS ITEM, DEPENDING ON IT'S MANUFACTURE.COME PRESET AT 20/40 PSI OR 30/50 PSI OR 40/60 PSI. THAT MEANS ON START/OFF START PSI. SO IF YOUR PUMP CONTINUES TO PUMP AND WON'T TURN OFF.YOUR SYSTEM PUMPS MAY HAVE SOME WEAR TO IT OR A POSSIBLE HOLE IN THE DROP PIPE THAT IS NOT ALLOWING YOUR SYSTEM TO REACH PSI THAT IT SET FOR. ALL U HAVE TO DO IS READJUST THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO THE PSI READING THAT IS ON PSI GAUGE.

If water heater is leaking, then open following 2 links to avoid tank rupture and troubleshoot leak:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Emergency-steps-for-leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html

Open following link if you want to install your own gas water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

40 gallon electric heater at Lowes costs 207, and is easy do-it-yourself using same basic information shown in link above for installing gas heater, except less work.

To have gas water heater installed, can run $2-300 for installation plus cost of heater.
40 gallon natural gas water heater at Lowes starts at $300+, and tanks with longer warranty cost more and last longer.
Trailers require specific type of gas water heater, so be sure to request correct model.

If you maintain the tank: keep chemicals out of same room as gas water heater, attach bare copper ground wire between hot and cold pipes, flush tank each 6 months, clean gas burner each year as shown in manual, read the manual entirely for specific information about your model, and inspect/replace anode rod every 2-3 years then basic 6-year tank can last much longer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

The pressure tank psi may be too high. To set it you get the system to pressure up and stop then check that water pressure. Whatever that is, is what the tank should be set at. Too much air pressure and the water pressure will suddenly drop before the pump kicks in.
To set the tank properly turn off the pump, drain all water pressure, then set the air pressure in the tank to the same as the water pressure was. Turn it back on and check again.

You have a pressurized system using a pressure tank.This is a case of an air logged pressure tank. Meaning there is more air than water in the pressure tank. The pressure tank must hold 2/3 water and 1/3 air of its total volume. Installed at the tank is the air volume control to take care of this proportion. Should the air volume control malfunction or becomes defective, the air-water ratio is affected. And then,
the pressure tank becomes either air logged or water
logged.
SOLUTION:
1. Shut the power off, and open the discharge line
gate valve to flush the water in the pipe lines.
2. Open the drain plug of the pressure tank to empty
all the water at the pressure tank.
3. Close the drain plug, and put the power on.
4. Start the pump, and set the flow control valve 1/4
open.
5. The pump will normally run.

Send your e-mail for us to know the results, and for
further assistance.

It could be air if you recently had the water off at the main and let the pipes drain, but this would go away after a short while. It is most likely either a feed line from the wall to the faucet flexing when the pressure and hitting something under the sink or a water line in the wall that may have not been strapped properly to the stud when installed. They bounce around sometimes if not secured. Hopefully the feed line as the second is a bit more work to correct.

Good Luck