How do i fix my fridge that stopped working?

it sounds like you have a bad jazz board part 12868513,go here to see it
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/12868513/1472681?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=67004453%20.
unplug the machine,open the fridge door,remove the plastic cover behind the control panel,then feel behind the control panel,you'll feel a slot,one on each side,you stick a screw driver into the slot and push,one at a time and it releases the cover on the control panel, you have to push hard so don't worry the plastic is strong,you'll see the jazz board and a sensor on the right side,just remove the wires and sensor install the new board and reconnect the wires and sensor,then read the instructions that came with the new board and it will tell you how to program it,hope this helps and good luck

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

Since you are convinced that the circuit is sufficient, look for a voltage drop during start up. In the unique case, when both units try to start at the same time, a voltage drop can cause overamping and trip the breaker.
Look at that and let me know if we need to go any farther

Excuse me , but your fan works off 6-9 volts DC so do not try 120 volt cord . Your refrig has no defrost timer . It works off thermistors and a main control board .

Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off at selected temp.

Had a similar problem with my Kenwood Fridge Freezer
If you're mechanically minded you could check if there's an opening and motorised flap (usually behind a cover) at the top of the fridge - Cold air from the freezer enters the fridge through this flap) The Sound you heard could have been the motor trying to open / close this flap. This flap can become frozen in the closed position - so cold air is unable to enter the fridge compartment) My fix was to thaw it with a hairdryer and reassemble. Another fix would be to empty the freezer and open the doors - it might take more than 24 hours but once completely defrosted if the flap is the issue it will have defrosted. Once plugged in again the door will open and cold air will start to flow into the fridge compartment. I had a quote for €195 for a call out / repair
I fixed it myself in an hour - Hope it works for you ...

You have a defrost problem. The fridge gets cold air from freezer, if ice blocking from no defrost, no fridge temperature.

I suggest you unplug the fridge. If possible you can then open the wiring connection cover on the compressor (where the supply cable connects) and check what is causing the short circuit. Probably when moist there was a short circuit due to water but this may have burned some of the wiring. This will be quite visible and easy to repair with a bit of insulation tape.

Check water turned on. check ice button switch turned on in fridge. remove juice storage, ice container in freezer, check ice bucket full white plastic flapper to make sure not stuck on a white peg at top. flapper must hang down and be freely movable to signal ice maker to keep busy. If up high will turn off ice maker. Lots of other parts especially heater circuits involved also: fill tube supply heater not working then frozen supply line then no ice. Look for wiring diagram in ziplock behind compressor grille. can order parts at repairclinic.com. logical design, layout, easy to get to sensors, heaters. makes sense if look at it long enough.

No No No. The most likely reason that the evaporator fan is not running is that it probably uses the heater circuit for its neutral feed. I.E. In order for the fan to have 230v/115v it needs a zero voltage brought back through the defrost heater and defrost stat. I know this for a fact because I just did one today and have fallen for this scenario (ie bad fan motor) before. You need to check from ground(earth) to each side of the fan motor (which is easily accessible) and then across the fan motor windings. The chances are that you have zero voltage across the motor. The fan will also not run until the temperature of the evaporator coil has been brought below 0 'C (32'F) and this can take up to 20 mins (again speaking from experience). This is to prevent snow being produced after defrost. I would advise getting the engineer to come back if you have paid him money and do a proper job. Shorts in Amanas can happen but have not come across one yet. Hope this helps.