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Robert Hittle Posted on Jun 11, 2015
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Wiring Diagram I am trying to wire in a J351 timer switch into my wall. The wall wiring has 6 cables coming down through the wall and all of them have a black, white and a copper ground except one of the cables has a black, white, red and a copper ground wire, how do you wire up the switches along with the timer? Help Me Please

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Gene Haynes

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  • Hardware & A... Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 19, 2015
Gene Haynes
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Are you replacing 3-way switch?
EJ351 is single pole
You have to test these wires to see what each one does.
Two of the black-white wires will be Hot from breaker box... other wires will go to lights or forward to another switch or outlet box
The black hot wire will connect to one of the wires on timer....
The hot wire will also feed into the black wires that go forward to other switches and outlet boxes.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html

Gene
Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 23, 2009

SOURCE: Re: wiring the FV-08VKS1

The black and white in the fan box are the main power and neutral for normal (low speed) of the fan. The two reds are the signal wires. It is basically a switch loop. You will actually need a total of 4 conductors (plus a ground) in order to run the high and low speed of the fan. The four conductors consist of 1) power from one switch to power up the fan, 2) neutral, 3) signal going to second switch, 4) signal going back to fan from second switch in order to run high speed. Without four conductors you can still run the high speed only by tying the two red wires in the fan together. This would be like always having the second swith in the on position. Hope this helps.

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Anonymous

  • 351 Answers
  • Posted on May 25, 2010

SOURCE: I bought a Utilitech 7 day digital in wall timer,

HI .. if the switch has only a black and white wire attached, and there are no other wires in the wall box, then you cannot use this timer switch. You need to return it and get a timer that does not use a neutral connection. The wires you have are a switch leg from the light and there is a white wire but it is not a neutral.
If there are other wires in that wall box , tell me and we can chat more about how to remedy this .

Please Vote !!

Anonymous

  • 351 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2010

SOURCE: Help with Woods 59018/59028 7 day digital timer

The usual connection for this type timer is the house black power to the timer black, the house white power to the timer white and the , the light black wire to the red timer wire.
If you only have two wires, one black and one white, at the switch location, then you cannot use this style timer , as it needs a neutral. You should return this timer and get one that does not require a neutral connection.

Please Vote !!

Anonymous

  • 2841 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 14, 2010

SOURCE: I have purchased a Utilitech

What you have a single pole light switch you are replacing with the timer. As you say you have 2 black wires. One black wire is the incoming power wire and the other black wire goes up to the light. On a normal single pole switch is makes no difference which of the screws you connect it to. Of course with the exception of the ground screw. Tie all the white wires back together that are in the wall box and shove them to the rear as they are not needed to make this connection. The correct connection is to connect one of the black existing black wires in the wall switch box to the black wire on the timer. Now connect the other black wire to the blue wire on the timer. The red wire is not used in a single pole connection and is only used in a 3 way switch connection, so just put a twist connector on it and shove it back in the box. To recap, connect black wire on timer to either black wire in box. Connect the other blue wire to the other black wire. Do not use the red wire. Hopefully you did not hurt the timer by connecting it incorrectly. If it does not work after setting the timer up according to the instructions you have ruined the timer by wiring it incorrectly. Hopefully no damage has been done.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 26, 2010

SOURCE: GE digital timer. Instructions say to: 1)

Find the Hot wire:
Your switch has 2 wires. One of these wires is Hot, and one goes to load. Disconnect wires from switch. Turn on power. Do not stand on wet surface. Test each wire to bare copper wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire. The other wire goes to load.

Connect wires:
Hot wire goes to Black timer wire
Wire to load goes to Red timer wire
White wire connects to white wires that are twisted together
Bare copper wire connects to Green wire from timer

How to connect white wire to white wires that are twisted together.
a) Strip white timer wire so you have 1-1/2 " of bare wire. Stranded wire will wrap around other wires easily.
b) Remove wire nut. DO NOT UNTWIST wires.
c) Hold all whites together so bare copper lines up. Wrap stranded copper around the twisted wire.
d) Replace wire nut, or use larger wire nut. Twist real tight. Do not use tape. You can solder the connection.
e) When done, pull on white time wire to make sure it is held tight. Push whites back into box.

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I want to replace two regular switches with two utilitech 7 day digital in wall timers.

Go to lowes or home depot and get a book on simple wiring. they have the same ones at the library.
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Need wiring diagram for the Intermatic SS5C70 or LR3730

Try following instruction:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kElJi8rwrl4

Add comment and say if this timer is hardwired, or fits over switch like automatic wall switch timer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#castle

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Wiring diagram sunsmart. I am replaceing a timer swithch of a differnt brand. I have a single pole installation, but the power enters the fixture and then comes to the switch. The diagram in the box...

Sounds like you have the GE sunsmart timer, and are wiring the timer for single-pole.
Following information does not apply to 3-way timer wiring.
Add a comment if you have different timer.

Start with previous timer:
The previous timer was connected to two wires: Hot wire and Load wire.
Hot wire carries power from circuit breaker.
Load wire connects to fan,light, or motor.

How to wire Sunsmart:
1) Only one wire in the electrical box is Hot. That wire is usually black. Connect black Hot wire to timer-black wire.
2) Load wire connects to timer-blue wire.
3) Timer-red wire is capped off for single-pole wiring.
4) Timer-green wire connects to bare copper wire.
5) Timer-white wire connects to Neutral wire. This will power the timer electronics. The previous timer probably had a battery to power timer electronics. Neutral wires are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
6) If box does not have Neutral wires, then connect timer-white wire to bare copper ground wire until neutral wire can be run from any nearby outlet box.
7) Try the timer, and if timer does not work, then reverse timer-blue and timer-black.

Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15312

Add a comment for more help

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Hi, I am trying to install a Leviton time switch. in the wall box I have a single black, a single white and a copper wire. Here's how I plan to wire it up: wall switch black (hot) ...

The white wire is used to power electronics inside timer:

Single pole switch has two insulated wires.
Remove both insulated wires from switch.

Timer black connects to one of the insulated switch wires, or to Hot wire from breaker
Timer red connects to the other insulated switch wire, or to Load wire going to fan, light, motor.
Timer white connects to Neutral wire from breaker box. Neutrals are white wires that are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
If box does not have Neutral wires, then connect timer white wire to bare ground wire.
Timer green connects to bare ground.

Turn power on, and check if timer is working. If timer is not working, then reverse timer black and timer red wires.
This wiring information has been tested and is accurate.
If timer does not function correctly with correct wiring, then move timer to another location to see if timer is defective, if timer does not work on specific Load, then noise or interference on line can be suspect. Also check ratings for timer and compare with Load ratings.

If you have countdown timer connected to whole house motor/fan, then horsepower rating is important consideration. If timer is rated 1/6 HP and whole house fan is 1/2 HP, then timer will not work.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html
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GE smart digital timer was installed according to instructions. Timer was set to turn lights on at 5:30, and the lights blink on and off but will not stay on. I tried reprogramming, but same result. ...

It sounds like wiring is wrong.

If you have GE Tork Intermatic UPM Woods Brinks Hagar Pass-n-Seymour Stanley Westek in-wall timer, with red, black, white and green wires, then you probably put red and white wires together.
Add a comment any time.

See instructions along with image at following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0192773.html

Heres how to wire timer

1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Switch has 2 wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground, along with timer-green wire.
5) Turn on electricity, and push ON-OFF button > with GE timer, door is push-button switch. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.
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When I hook up a new timer it starts to make a clicking noise and the lights do not go on. I have put in 2 different batteries and the timer still makes a clicking noise. The light timer is for a 3-way...

Your wiring is probably wrong.
Wiring is tricky for 3-way timers.
First of all, both 3-way switches cannot be replaced with timers ... just one of the two switches is replaced.

You don't say which timer you have.
Since I know the wiring and the timers, let me jump in, and you can add a comment, and then we can work further.

A) You have battery-operated ST01C or EJ500.
Here is wiring diagram for Intermatic battery-operated timers:
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#3way
Note that at all times, the blue wire has to go to load, and that the blue wire connects to dark-colored screw on 3-way switch.
Note that the remaining 3-way switch is not wired the same as before. The red and blue wires have to be wired exactly as shown, and the wiring might require additional wire running between the switches.
Now add a comment with your wire colors and description where you are in the wiring.

B) You have Aube timer with rechargeable battery.
T0132 manual shows wiring diagrams
http://waterheatertimer.org/Aube-T1032-timer.pdf
Below is image of typical Aube wiring.
The manual shows one other diagram depending on which switch is being replaced.
The important this is note that the wiring on the remaining 3-way switch requires a jumper wire from the dark-colored screw to the brass screw on other side of switch. But it has to be the same brass screw that goes back to Aube timer #1 wire.
Usually this little difference solves the 3-way switching problem, but add a comment any time.
geno_3245_160.jpg
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I have an ST01 timer that I want to place in a three way circuit that appears to be different than that shown in the directions. My circuit has power (black/white/ground) coming into switch 1 with a three...

One caveat of most In-Wall electronic switches/timers is that the device _must_ be installed at the switch box that has the power, in your case switch #1. In order to install it at switch #2, in your case, you need an extra wire between the switches (to carry the HOT wire), and unfortunately, the bare ground(ing) wire is not permitted to be used to carry current per National Electric Code (NEC).

In your case the wiring for the ST01 is as follows:

Switch box #1: Connect the incoming White wire to the White wire in the 3-wire cable that goes to switch box #2. Connect the incoming (Black) HOT wire to the Black wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Red wire in the 3-wire cable to the Red wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable to the blue wire on the switch/timer. Connect the green wire on the switch/timer to the 2 bare ground(ing) wires. If you have a metal box this connection should also have a pigtail that connects to the box with a green ground screw.

Switch box #2: Remove all of the existing wires from the 3-way switch. The three-way switch will have 2 screws the same color (usually black) and 1 screw (usually brass). For this scenario, one of the black screws will _not_ be used.

Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1, the Black wire going to the lights, and a short Black pigtail together under one wirenut. The pigtail is then connected to the brass screw on the 3-way switch. The Red wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 is connected to one of the 2 black screws on the 3-way switch (pick one).

In effect you are installing a single switch at switch box #2. In fact, you can use a regular single pole switch if you want too.

To finish, connect the White wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 to the White wire going to the lights.

Grounding is the same as switch #1 except you'll need a pigtail to connect to the green screw on the 3-way switch.

That's it. You may want to check the battery compartment in the switch/timer, as sometimes they put in a pullout plastic tab to keep it from being energized until needed.

Now, the E1210 is a different animal, and can only be used to replace a single pole switch. You could use it by basically passing the power through to switch box #2 from switch box #1 and then cover switch box #1 with a blank plate. The ST01 could be used that way too, in which case the black on the device connects to the hot, the blue to the lights, and the red on the device is not used, nor will the Red wire in the 3-wire cable between the switch boxes be used.
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Wiring diagram for Dimplex wall heater Model 6100770000

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I have two black wires and a ground in the switch box. Please advise on proper method to install. thanks

If you have ST01C timer, then open following link to see correct wiring diagram for single pole switch replacement:
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

For other timers including Swilight, GE, Leviton, Brinks, Grasslin, Stanley, Utilitec, Westek, Woods, Tork, UPM, Paragon, Hagar in-wall timers: Open following page for correct wiring of GE in-wall timers.
Same wiring steps are used for in-wall timers listed above.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15071

If you are wiring Aube timer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Aube-timers.html

For all other timers, add a comment with in-focus photo of your timer for correct identification and possible assistance.
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6568559-post_photograph_fixya_questions_answers

Add a comment for more free help

Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
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