The water starts for a few seconds then stops but motor keeps running but tub does not turn.

Make sure the water is turned on to the unit first--next, is there water entering the tub? Check the float switch--the round, plastic, "flying saucer" shaped object at the bottom of the tub. Gently lift up on it and carefully listen for a very soft "click" sound. That is the tiny switch underneath working. If something gets trapped under the float switch, the washer won't fill with water. Next, if water is indeed in the tub, did you hear the motor pump running? If it runs and then stops, there might be a problem with the control board--check to see if the drain pump works properly--cancel the cycle and listen for the drain pump turning on and draining out all the water. On almost all dishwashers, at the start of a cycle, the drain pump will turn on briefly to pump out any standing water left in the motor base(you can't see the water but it's there) so it doesn't get sprayed onto your dishes. Then, fresh, hot water enters the tub, when the water level reaches the proper level, the float switch rises, tells the computer enough water is present, then starts the main pump. If the water is not being drained out, try to listen for the drain motor humming. If it is running but not draining, it is probably jammed with food or other debris and must be cleared. If the water is turned on but no water is entering the tub, check the inlet water valve underneath the washer--the water line is connected directly to it. It is electrical and operates on 120v. You will need to carefully disconnect the connector from the valve, activate a cycle, and using a voltage meter, check to see if 120 volts is present. If it is there and no water is entering, most likely the valve is bad. If there is no voltage at the valve, either a wire is broken or the main board is defective.

First of all, what you have is a WOW pump that has an E-switch for a control.
There is a knob on the top lip of your tub that you turn a 1/4 turn to turn this pump on/off.
There is a small circuit board inside the box on top of the motor. This is likely the source of your problem.
Here is your biggest problem. That little circuit board is not made anymore. We have the e-switch but you will be better off changing out the pump (which you have to do anyway) with a new WOW pump with an air switch and change the switch on the top lip of the tub to an air button which will turn the pump on/off.

Rod
US Parts Center

This sounds to us like maybe you have an air lock in the system.
Try this:
Turn the pump on and while it is trying to operate, loosen the discharge union on the water pump until it is spraying water (do NOT unthread it very far).
Most of the time if you have an air lock this will solve the problem.

Rod
US Parts Center

Sounds like the brushes are struggling to get enough power to the motor to spin. Renew motor brushes

look on the back of the motor there should be a shaft that you can try to turn to spin free because something inside the pump is blocking it. rate me if this is helpful.

Find the tube from the tub to the water level switch. Remove the tube from the switch and blow the sand and stuff out the line. Pump out any water in the washer and restart.

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Sounds like a motor problem. Behind the chopper is an access to the impeller, try turning the impeller or the chopper blade and see if the motor will rotate. If it doesn't, then something is stuck preventing the motor from running.

I had the same problem. The machine will do the washing cycle. At the start of the spin cycle it would start turning with a lot of clicking sounds and then would stop spinning. The water pump would continue working without problem. The motor tries to start again in about three minutes, however, repeats the same behavior. I have a reasonable mechanical and electrical knowledge. I was sure that the overload protection switch of the motor was tripping. I opened up my machine---a GE super capacity top loading machine. Took off the belt and turned the transmission pulley. It turned easily in both directions (washing and spinning). Hence, the transmission was good. Next, I checked any water accumulation in the spin tub. If the water is not drained properly before the spin cycle, it would overload the motor. There was no water clogged in the spin tub. Finally, I dismantled the electric motor. There was a clutch assembly underneath the motor pulley. I dismantled it and found the clutch very dirty with some grease that had turned sticky. I cleaned the assembly thoroughly with alcohol and assembled back the machine. The machine is running perfect after that. Conclusion: The clutch assembly was mis-functioning. Reason: When the spin cycle starts, the spin tub is very heavy and cannot achieve the full speed quickly. On the other hand, electric motors must get to their running speed fairly quickly or else overheating of motor would happen. A proper functioning clutch allows the motor to run at their optimal speed while transferring enough torque to the spin tub to slowly speed up the tub to its fullest. In my case, the clutch was sticky, thus overloading the motor which would trip as it overheats.

Try checking the water level, and level switch? Is the outlet hose high enough of the floor? If you tip the machine back you should see one or two clear plastic tubes, take one end of these and blow through them and the do it the other way round.

Jayron, is the motor jogging? start to spin, stop, start to spin stop. If so, your motor is jogging between the high and low start windings. The motor during spin should start on the high speed windings and stay there until most of the water is drained. GE came out with a new motor, harness and run cap because of this. If you have a meter, there should be a white and white/red wire going to the motor. If you have a steady 120V and it's doing this jogging, replace the motor with the kit...Let me know if this the issue, Catriver..post back.