My fan motor terminal connection to wiring are all cut no color wire all live wire how do i connect it

Not easy to explain. The capacitor is split, it has two values, or like two capacitors connected internally with a center tap between them. Two capacitance values, maybe 5uf and 20uf, the lower value for the fan motor and the higher for the compressor, with terminals C-common, F-fan, M-compressor.
Capacitor terminal C is the center tap and that takes 3 connections, line (power) - fan line common to capacitor, and Compressor line common to capacitor. Notice the fan and compressor have a power line not common to capacitor, just power line.
Capacitor terminal F has one wire connecting to Fan terminal C, fan may have three or four terminal writes, two for power with one power being common to capacitor connection and the other power alone, two power connection wire leads. Fan motor third line is capacitor, connects to the capacitor alone. Four wire configuration fan motor is not likely your needs. Omit or ask again for further explanation.
Compressor is similar to fan, only with a capacitance value higher than for tha fan motor. Two power leads, one straight power, the other power lead connects to the capacitor power. The third compressor lead connects alone to the capacitor.
The with is to draw a diagram and level the colors of each lead and terminal lavels too. The motors nameplate may indicate wire color code, the a-c nameplate wiring diagram may be present in the control wron wiring compartment, the goal is to find clues or to trace each wire and verify what they connect or do, take notes on your drawing.
Basically the motor has three terminals, L1 - L2 - C, or C- S-R (Common, Start,Run)

Keeping in mind that some motors may be different
The most common wire colors on a 3 speed motor are as follows:
Red- Low speed
Blue- Medium speed
Black- High speed
Brown capacitor wires ( usually two of them connect to the two capacitor terminals doesn't matter which wire to which terminal)
White - Neutral wire on 115 volt systems or the other 115 volt side of a 230 volt system ( note on a 230 volt motor this wire may not be white). Remember this is the most common wiring but different motors may have different wiring.
Hope this helps.

Bob

go to junk yard find car with same motor copy down which goes where

I'm looking at the T-103 sitting here in my office.
Terminals are labeled: A 1 2 3 4
I have about 10 different Intermatic timers on the shelves & each is a bit different

The T103 has a 120Volt (or 110V) clock motor
You need a white Neutral wire to operate the T103 clock

120V: Let's say your Load (light, fan, pump) is 120V
The white Neutral from breaker box connects to Terminal A
The 120V black Hot wire from breaker box connects to Terminal 1
The black wire going to Load (fan, light, motor) connects to terminal 2
The white wire going to Load connects to terminal A along with the Neutral
Ground wires connects to green ground screw
If your wires from breaker and wires to load are wired in reverse, the timer will turn ON the Load but the timer will not shut the circuit OFF.
To test which wire is Hot and Neutral, look at explanation at bottom of page.

240V: Let's say your Load is 240 Volts (or 220 Volts)
The clock motor is still 120V so you still need a white Neutral wire connected on Terminal A
Now you have 2 Hot wires coming from breaker box
Hot wire 1 from breaker box connects to Terminal 1
Hot wire 2 from breaker box connects to Terminal 3
Wire 1 going to Load connects to Terminal 2
Wire 2 going to Load connects to Terminal 4
Ground wires connects to green ground screw

What if you don't have a Neutral wire and you are wiring a 240V circuit?
240V circuits normally have 2 hots and a ground, but no neutral
Buy the T-104 timer
The T-104 has a 240V clock motor
Wiring for the T-104 is exactly the same as 240V wiring shown above for T103 EXCEPT there is no Neutral on Terminal A, and Terminal A is bare
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

How to test which wire is Hot
Test requires wires with live electricity >>> this is not advisable without precaution
Stand on dry boards, do not touch anything metal, wear dry clothes, do not hold screwdriver in mouth, wear gloves, tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power
Remove wires from terminals
Separate wires so they can be tested
Turn on power
Test each wire to bare ground wire
Tester lights up on Hot wire(s)
If circuit is 120V, then there is only one Hot wire
If circuit is 240V, then 2 wires will test hot to ground >> these wires will be Hots 1 & 2
Test assumes circuit breaker is functioning normally.

How do you test for neutral?
If you have 120V line with only 1 hot wire, then one of the white wires will be Neutral?
Test Hot wire to each white wire
Tester lights up on neutral

Did the old fan use 4 wires or 3 wires. If it used 4 then connect the brown and brown/white to the capacitor. Then connect the Black to L1 and Purple to L2. If it used 3 wires then tape up or put a wire nut on the brown/white wire. Connect the brown wire to the Fan terminal if the capacitor has 3 terminals or to either side if it only has 2 terminals. Look at the motor data plate. It should have the wires labeled on it. Purple should be the run wire, connect it to the Comm terminal of the capacitor if it has 3 terminals or the opposite side from brown if it has 2 terminals. Another wire should go from this connection to L1. Then connect the Black wire which is common to L2. I hope this isn't too confusing. Let me know if I need to explain it better. Also if the motor data plate says that Black is run and Purple is common just adapt the instructions above to the wire colors.

Before attempting any of these recommendations, First disconnect all the power sources and check your wiring diagrams on the motor and condensing unit.
On the old capacitor if you look on the top near each of the three terminals. Are they marked, fan - C - herm? If they are that is a dual capacitor and that needs to stay because that is also your compressor capacitor.
The Red wire from the conductor is Run and it's connected to C on the old capacitor.
Follow the Yellow wire and see if it goes to the S or start terminal on the compressor, if it does then that is the Start wire for your compressor and it connects to herm on the capacitor.
For the fan motor a lot of times the wiring connections are printed on the motor label.
Check the label, Purple should be run and connect to C on the old capacitor.
Black should be Common and it connects to the opposite side of the contactor as the Red wire. If the Red wire connects to T1 then the Black wire connects to T2.
The Brown wire shoud be the start wire on the fan motor and it connects to the Fan terminal on the old capacitor.
Now if you want to use the new fan capacitor. Take the Purple wire from the motor and look for any marks (red paint or a dash) on or beside the terminals on the new capacitor. If there is an identifying mark then connect the Purple wire to that terminal, if no marks you can connect it to either terminal. Then you need a jumper wire from C on the old capacitor to the purple side of the new capacitor. Then take the brown wire and connect it to opposite terminal of the new capacitor.

Simple to do. Go to the local hardware or home improvement store and get a 6 to 8 foot heavy-duty extension cord. Cut the outlet end (not the Plug end) off, you won't use it. Strip back the outer casing of the cord to expose the three wires, black, white and green.
The Green wire is connected to frame of the motor or saw to ground it for safety reasons.
The White wire is connected to the silver color screw connection.
The Black wire is connected to one terminal of the switch, another wire is connected from the second switch terminal to the brass color screw on the motor.
Plug in the extension cord, and flip "ON" the switch and cut some wood and think of your Grandpa....good guy!

hi there,

it always can fix,there are several factror to check,you should have a multi tester to use to check the circuit.it might be on the switch,
cable or on the motor.
open the control box of the fan,there are set screw loosen this and you will see the connection of electrical connection of cable supply and the swicth.
set tester on rx1 check continuity of the cable plug supply,red rod of tester on plug take one wire,black test rod on the other end of cable plug.this other end of wire is on control box.see if pointer of tester move on to no.10 or 20ohms if move its good.try also on the other side of wire.if does not move replaced the wire.
if you can see a fuse check this,by tester
on rx1 attached red test rod on one end of fuse black rod on the other end,if move the pointer its good but if not,replace fuse,actually all fan motor have thermistor fuse inside the motor,it was mounted on the inner side of winding of
motor it look like a resistor or sometime a form of small square resistor has two terminals,to test this, red test rod on one terminal and black test rod on the other terminal if pointer of tester does not move replace thermistor.
to get the termistor fuse you should open
the motor,this is not easy job.but small pc. of motor will give you knowledge how to fix your small appliances.,on motor there are four lock in bolt,before you can pull out the motor disconnect the wiring from the switch cut this
by cutter plier leave a small color lead of wire
when you cut,allow you to remember the connection when putting back.when you dismantle the motor,loosen the four lock in bolt and pull out the winding on motor case
on winding cut the plastic strip,find the thermistor fuse,this was insulated,careful to cut small wire this are all terminal of motor
replace the thermistor if busted.
put back and try to run your fan again.
unplug your fan before doing this this should be done by technician,have anice day rate my fix thanks a lot.

There should be a wiring diagram on the panel of the furnace. In the box of the icm 281 is step by step instructions.

Maybe this will help

Take notes on your low voltage wires from the thermostat and condenser. W Y R C G. Write down what color wires go to above terminals.

On your high voltage wiring,
Take the black wire from the transformer and put it on PR-1.
Take the white wire from the transformer and put it on PR-2
Take the black power wire from the panel interlock switch and connect it to L1
Take the white neutral power wire and connect it to L2
Take the black fan motor wire and connect it to HI
Take the red fan motor wire and connect it to LO
Take the white fan motor wire and connect it to COM
Then reconnect your low voltage terminal wires to W Y R C G.

Thats it.

Ok you have to trace the wires on down to what terminals they go to on the fan and especially the compressor. Usually you cant go by colors but always by the names on terminals and the like.

The capacitor has labels like (C or Com) (Fan or F) and (Comp or Herm). The compressor has terminals like (Com or C) (S or start) and (R or Run)

Write all the colors down on the compressor and the terminals that correspond to the colors.

Then do the same for what you can trace to the fan motor (usually there are only 1 or 2 going to the fan motor) If it just goes into the fan motor write down all the colors that go from the capacitor to the fan motor. The other wires from your description haven't been chewed or removed correct? If this answer is other than correct we have another step to perform.