I have a Husqvarna #1 1200 sewing machine which does not like twin needle sewing on stretch fabric! I have tried everything but it keeps catching underneath the base plate

Hi, I am presuming you want to sew a knit fabric? If so take a piede of scrap faric and using a stretch stitch sew a piece of the fabric with an ordinary needle. I have done this with success when I haven't had a ball point. You can give it a try. :-)

Very possible the needle is old, damaged, or the incorrect type for the fabric. Sometimes a straight-stitch needle plate can be used on a machine that will prevent the fabric from going down through the hole. But try a new needle first. Make sure you are using the correct type of needle for the fabric you are sewing--sharp for woven fabric, ball point for knit.

try this link for parts and needles
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/husqvarna-viking-936-sewing-machine-parts.aspx

Hi, Tania
Chances are that you're using a universal point twin needle, designed for sewing on woven fabrics. Twin needles also come with a ballpoint which is what you need for knit fabrics
A ballpoint or stretch needle has a rounded tip that will separate the knit fibers as it penetrates the fabric instead of breaking through them. A universal needle may not catch the bobbin thread on both needles when used on knit fabrics; this is necessary for proper stitch formation.

Your needle may be new, but Is needle correct size for fabric you are sewing? If so, is needle all the way up as far as it will go in needle bar shaft, flat side in back & more rounded side facing you? Stretch knits and wovens, denims, and leather do not use same needle size. Jimmy

Lower the pressure on the feed dogs, use a stretch stitch, and longer stitch length. Be sure to use a good quality thread, and maybe go lighter weight thread.

Schmetz make a blue coated needle, usually best for denim fabrics as the coating aids the needle in slipping between tightly woven fibres such as denim. It may also be called a Denim needle.

But you shouldn't need to use that needle for most fabrics, just the most appropriate sized needle and either sharp point for wovens or ball point for knits. Perhaps get a mixed pack of both sharps and ball points to start with.

Try this website if you want to shop for needles on line, http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/sewing-machine-needles.aspx they carry a wide range of types, sizes and brands. Klasse and Schmetz are both high quality needle brands. You want the 130/705H system of needles for your domestic sewing machine. These are the norm for 99% of domestic sewing machines.

There are other needle systems for industrial machines (round tops) and EL705 for overlockers, these are extra long but identical shank design at the top. So just make sure you get the regular needles 130/705H.

In terms of what size to use, here is good reference guide on sewing machine needles.
http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/ig/Sewing-Machine-Needles/Needle-Sizes.--94.htm
The important thing is to change the needle for each new project, ie about 4-6 sewing hours, as a blunt needle will never give good results. If you always start with a new one, and its the right sized needle for the fabric you are sewing, then you should ensure best possible stitching results from your machine.
If the needle is too big, it will leave holes in the fabric, too small and it will break. If you use a sharp point on stretch fabrics, you'll get skipped stitches. If you sew a lycra knit with a ballpoint and it still skips, then change to a "Stretch" needle, this will also be blue coated ballpoint and helps with skipping and needle deflection.

Then there is twin needles, twin stretch needles, winged needles and leather needles, all for special techniques. Never worth trying to scrimp on needles, I have probably have in excess of 40 packs of different sizes and types in my sewing cabinet.

Hope this helps you out.

and they sho

I don't know your machine but the twin needles are generic so I will give you a couple of options. First thing to try is turn your upper thread tension down to 3. If that doesn't work try using a wider twin needle. The width goes up to 4.0 and some machines (check your manual) have the ability to use a 6.0 twin needle. If you are using a lightweight fabric you can use a tearaway or light to medium wash away stabilizer on top of the fabric. If using tearaway (like paper) draw your stitching line on it and pin it to your fabric. You only need a strip an inch or two wide and the length of your stitching line. It doesn't have to be all one piece. If you use wash away (like plastic wrap) just dampen each end of the strip and place it over your stitching line and it will stick. When you start sewing it will stay in place and you can tear it off after stitching. It will keep the fabric between your needles flat. The 389 presser foot is made to be used with cording under your fabric so you have a raised look to your stitching rows. I hope this helps. Please email me back if I can be of any more help.

It sounds like the needle just isn't in your machine all the way. Loosen the screw that holds the needle and push it up and see if it moves upward. Your machine has sensors that let the embroidery unit know where the needle bar is so the hoop won't move while the needle is down. There is a clamp that holds the needle bar tightly in the machine, if you can rotate the bar, the clamp has loosened. If the needle bar is loose at all, don't sew with your machine as you could cause real damage.

You must use an anti static needle or stretch stitch needle.