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Wife put personal leakage pads with underpants by mistake. They fell apart. Now on spin, real squeel as water empties on spin cycle and some leakage from under washer. I have run two empty tub fulls of water and no leakage now but squeel continues on spin cycle. Stylemaster, 4214165, 7 cycle, heavy duty, extra large capacity
Found model # LXR7144E &LXR7144RQ1. I took pump out, no stuff in it. The impeller does rub like a windshield wiper on a lightly damp windshield. Could this be the new slight squeel I hear when washing machine is running? Will a new pump solve it? Or is it ok to have a squeel?Found model # LXR7144E &LXR7144RQ1. I took pump out, no stuff in it. The impeller does rub like a windshield wiper on a lightly damp windshield. Could this be the new slight squeel I hear when washing machine is running? Will a new pump solve it? Or is it ok to have a squeel?
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Re: How do I take the whirlpool washer cabnet off?
Earlier whirlpool tubs had 4 screws under rubber plugs that unfortunately rusted if you manage to get them out then the complete top lifts of the base section
later models just prise apart as they have eliminated the screws
there are manuals on line to download
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3949247 is the actual part number for that lid switch, and you won't find a blow out of the thing taken apart because its a molded part and not designed to come apart/
First check the lid switch , if broken order new switch 1103351355/w10119828
to remove lid switch unplug washer from wall ,remove both end caps on console just pop them -off remove screws (2) lift console back ,remove both spring clips ,unplug switch lift cabnet out away from washer ,remove both screws from switch ,then check under cabnet to unscrew ground wire 5/16 screw (reminder watch how you pull cabnet off ) there are two tab on bottom rear that cabnet to line up cabnet
Did you check the motor coupling. It is a round plastic coupler that joins the motor too the transmission. This is on the direct drive washer only. Remove the cabnet by removing two screws on the console. Tilt console up and undo wiring harness from cabnet (3wire plug). take off two gold clips holding cabnet to back panel and tilt cabnet forward to remove cabnet.
Remove two clips holding pump onto motor and pull pump off of motor.
Remove two screws on clips for motor. Puy off two clips. Remove wiring harness off motor and remove motor.
You now have access to motor coupler. Pry coupler half off motor and half off of transmission. Replace with new ones gently tapping on with a socket extention and a small hammer. Just tap on till motor shaft is flush with edge of coupling half. Insert rubber like coulper between the motor and transmission coupler and reinstll everything in reverse.
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We had the same (plus another) problem with an old Kenmore
top load, direct drive,neutral drain washer.
Problem 1. Major gear sounding grinding during spin mode. Major vibration also.
Problem 2. Spin problem. Most times the washer would drain but wouldn't spin
unless the lid was raised and lowered. (According to wife, this problem has
been on-going for two years).
After checking motor coupling (a bit worn but intact), drive block (you don't
need a spanner wrench to remove it, a 12 - 14 inch pipe wrench works great)
which was OK, clutch, seemed OK, we determined that the problems were in the
transmission.
Two options, 1 spend $150 plus for a transmission.
2. Open it up and see if anything seemed seriously bad.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and
on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore)
the first problem seemed to be related to the agitator cam and cam follower
not raising the agitator gear high enough (probably less than a 1/16th of an
inch) above the agitator cam.
Found the right part number (Whirlpool part # 62580 / 81) which includes both
the cam and follower. Bought one for about $10.50, installed it, put washer back
together and problem 1 was solved.
Looked again at parts list and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral
assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore
the transmission apart again.
Those cams/gears etc. keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is
pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the
lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so
that the washer will spin.
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly)
for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
Put the washer back together and I now have a happy wife. Everything works as
it should.
NOTE. Fixing the washer takes a little mechanical ability (wrenches, socket
sets, screw drivers, vice grips, short pipe wrench) and a solid desire to save
some money.
All told parts cost less than $30 (I also replaced the old transmission oil
with 80-90 weight oil from an auto parts store) saving over $125.
Is this a older model whirlpool..Like a regular traditional topload. and you unscrewed the 2 screws holding the lid switch. If so, you need to unscrew the top councel. 2 screws on the back of the councel at the corners. unscrew, then flip top councel over. then youll see some clips holding the back panel to the whole cabnet. unclip the, with a flat head screwdriver and then the whole cabnet should come off..lift it a little and pull towrds you and you switch should be hanging under the cabnet somewhere if you look under the cabnet..like i said if this is the traditional top load washers....i would need a model number tho to see...but if it is jus put it back together how you took it apart and make sure you dont kink the clear hose when you put the cabnet back into place. Make sure the cabnet seats right on the frame at the bottom..hopefully this helps...
you have a faulty lid switch you will need to remove the cabnet and replace.To open you will need to remove the star screws off the rear consel corners and pull control panel up and over.If there is no screws you will need to use a puddy knife and push the front corners between the top and consel there are 2 clips ther as you push the knife lift at the same time on the consel.Then there are 2 brass clips stick a flat screw driver in and pry up they should pop off..Then remove the wire harness from lid switch.The lid switch will be under the cabnet or on the toprear left corner.to take the top lide switch remove the 5/16 screw and lift the lid then switch will come off.install new on if older the switch hase 2 srews around the inside lid area where the stricker pushes down then remove screw under the cabnet as well.hope i helpes is give me a fixya thank you so much :)
At Lowes you can purchase foam rubber pads 4"X5" pack of two for $3.50. If walking forward and after cecking level and washer pads are tight, place half of one pad under each of the two front feet. Place the sticky side against washer feet. Solved my problem.
if you lift andclose the lid do you hear "clicking" noise??? i bet not. simple repair, lift the lid and with a hollow shafted screwdriver(1/4in nutdriver or similliar hollow shaft implement)you fell with your hand the bottom half of the left side lid hinge. as you open and close the lid you can fell the opposing end of hinge under the top no need to dissasemble you can fell it right there. when you find it simply slip the hollow ended shaft over the hinge and apply pressure towardds the rear of unit.While doing this the top will want to close( your pushing against the hinge).. after appling slight pressure youll bend it slightly, enough to activet the lid switch mounted to the rear of the main lid assy.
you either have 2 screws in the front of the console or on the back of the console. remove these 2 screws and the console flips up. under that youll see 2 brass looking clips one on the right one on the left. remove thoughs clips. unplug the wire that are hooked into the top of washer. the whole cabnet tilts forward to be removed. look under cabnet youll see the switch
to remove lid switch unplug washer from wall ,remove both end caps on console just pop them -off remove screws (2) lift console back ,remove both spring clips ,unplug switch lift cabnet out away from washer ,remove both screws from switch ,then check under cabnet to unscrew ground wire 5/16 screw (reminder watch how you pull cabnet off ) there are two tab on bottom rear that cabnet to line up cabnet
Found model # LXR7144E &LXR7144RQ1. I took pump out, no stuff in it. The impeller does rub like a windshield wiper on a lightly damp windshield. Could this be the new slight squeel I hear when washing machine is running? Will a new pump solve it? Or is it ok to have a squeel?
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