Washer not fully draining

With the lid open, try to turn tub by hand. If you can you may have a bad clutch. If you hear the washer agitating at the begining of the cycle without any water and filling at the end of the cycle, replace the ATC switch. Try spin cycle and open the lid, if you don't see the tub turning, but hear the motor, check motor coupler, or if it never spins after you close lid, check lid switch. These are the most common solutions to this complaint.

Hi,
The problem will be on the main board or the power supply board of the machine might have some problem kindly the check the wire lines as well

i do not think that drain pump is having any problem

If it has a clean cycle that says, "Bleach Only," run it with 1/2 cup bleach right in the machine. If not, run it on the longest, hottest cycle you have. In the future, leave the door open slightly between loads.

There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Have a F-20 error.. on mty machine I just got it yesterday.. what is it and How can I fix it?? PLEASE HELP!!!

Have you read by advice on how to diagnose this problem? Click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r1491905-f20_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore

If you HAVE water entering the wash tub, first verify that you do not have a siphoning condition. This is where the drain line does not have the proper air gap to drain properly and creates a vacuum on the drain line. This will cause drain problems and may prevent the washer from filling all the way. Or, you may have trouble maintaining the water level. When you stated you had water leaking, is this a visible leak? Or, do you have water slowly draining from the tub? Double check your drain line to be sure.

Next, check the drain pump to ensure it is not clogged or obstructed which minimizes drain flow. Also, make sure the pump is running. Remove the access cover and clean out the pump reservoir. In addition, check the drain line from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the drain pump. I have personally found small articles of clothing stuck in this line, preventing drain flow.

Read through the link thoroughly. If you require additional assistance, please let me know before rating the solution. I hope this helps you.

door switch bad?

hi thanks for the question so your saying your tub is full of water ,did it stop in the middle of the wash cycle or at the end of the wash if its at the end of wash and it doesn, drain then you have a lid switch problem . if thats the case reset your timer as if you want to start a new wash load if it starts to wash your timer is ok replace the lid switch

yes it could . If you are trying to pump the water 7 feet or more above the floor then it will at the end of the cycle get air into the drain hose causing cavatation, the result when the machines stops is the water running back down the drain hose back into the tub and that is what causes the musty smell.
Lower the drain if possible

check the timer