At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First try to run a thread tapper to clean up the threads before causing harm to the carb. Threading the hole with the next larger tap will definitely work, but it requires a larger bolt afterwards.
It probably is located under a plastic cap with a hex nut on it. This cap is located on the engine near the radiator. The filter has no metal casing. Your engine is the metal casing. You need to purchase a special socket at a auto parts store to remove the cap. Make note of how the filter position is so that you place the new filter back in properly and not upside down. Place a new o ring on the plastic cap with a small amount of oil. Screw the cap back on by hand as far as you can to prevent the plastic threads from stripping. Then use the socket with ratchet to tighten. Do not over tighten the cap.
take the metal duct out that the lint filter slides down into,stick the metal strip through the hole in the side of the duct so that when it's in the bottom part of strip is flush up against the back side wall of duct and it should have like a half inch or so sticking out of the hole,but before you stick it in clean out the duct and with a thin long screw driver open the plastic cover that the filter slides through and poke out any lint in the slots that the filter slides in.so unplug the dryer,remove the bottom panel of dryer,remove the lint filter and screws that hold the lint filter duct in place they are 1/4 inch head screws,clean out the duct and the side slots up above the duct in the plastic area then slide the metal strip into the hole so that the bottom part that you first put into the hole fits flush up against the back inside wall of duct and the top of strip will be flush to the outside wall of duct and like around 1/2 inch or so still showing.hope this helps
Easy fix. Replace the timer. The timer drive motor or gears inside have failed. Their are 2 styles of timers. Plastic type base and a metal type base. The plastic timer has a hollow shaft. A plastic rod with a rounded tip is inserted into the hollow shaft to hold the timer knob in place. To remove the knob and skirt on these you simply yank out the rod and the knob will come on off. Then you can yank off the skirt (dial Indicator) and the timer mounting screws will then be revealed. The other style has a threaded shaft in which the knob will unscrew and the skirt can be removed so you can get to the timer mounting screws. A big old molex type plug goes into the timer. You yank that out and look for corrosion before buying anything AND make sure that plug is in there tight because it can vibrate out. Video how to get into the machine service manual and more fun stuff is HERE
There shouldn't be a way for that metal filter disc at the top of the brew chamber to come out without unscrewing the plastic thumbscrew on top. If you are saying the disc will slide out, or fall out, while that plastic thumbscrew is still tightened onto the threaded, metal shaft on the disc - then your brew group must be broken or you aren't putting it together correctly. That disc should push up into place with the threaded shaft poking up though the small hole - then the plastic thumbscrew should twist onto the threaded shaft and tighten down to pull the disc tightly up in place. If that doesn't happen, then the filter won't be held in place tightly so the water can leak around the filter and of course the coffee would be watery and weak.
From the rear, there are 3 screws on right and one on the lower left. There is 1 more on the front at the top just under the lamp. You will also need to remove the safety switch - the plastic thing down and just right of the front screw. Take out the 2 screws. Pull the switch gently away from the case and try to get a look at how it's put together. There is a bent rod inside with a plastic 'bar' holding it in. The flat end of the rod is on top - the round end at the bottom goes into a loop on a metal strip that is sticking out from the motor housing. By lifting up and wiggling, the rod will come out of the loop. Often, the plastic bar will come out and rod will just fall out. Just put the rod and the plastic bar back together (this is why you looked at it before). I tape the bar in place with Scotch tape or any thin tape and leave it that way. The fan housing is sealed with caulking (or whatever the last person to service it used). A few raps on the side of the case with rubber mallet and/or sticking a thin putty knife in the joint should do. You will need to scrape the joint clean and reseal it when you're done or it will blow dust like mad. Any caulking or gasket sealer will do. Just don't use high strength adhesive if you ever want to take it apart again without dynamite. Btw, the fan pulley is a left-hand thread.
YOUR PRESSURE SWITCH IS INSIDE A LITTLE PLASTIC BOX AND HAS A THREADED ROD WITH A SPRING AND NUT AT THE TOP NOW THIS PART IS DIFERANT ON DIFERANT BRANDS THAT NUT CONTROLS THE PRESSURE CUT OFF IT MAY HAVE TO TIGHTEN TO BUT IT IS MY EXPIERENCE THAT MOST OF THEM YOU LOOSEN IT TO CUT OUT AT LOWER PRESSURE OR YOU MAY HAVE A BAD RELIEF VALVE IF YOU HAVE A GOOD GAUGE YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO TELL NOW THIS IS ALL BASED ON SOME ASSUMPTIONS IF I AM WRONG OR MISSED THE MARK GET BACK TO ME WITH MORE DETAIL AND WE CAN GET THIS SOLVED THIS IS ONE OF THE SKILLS THAT I AM EMPLOYED AT I DO ALL REPAIR WORK ON THE 8 AIR COMPRESSORS AT THE MANUFACTURING FACILITY I WORK AT
The error F05 indicates that the pressure switch is jammed on full.
The only thing you can do your self is to check the filter is not blocked. Remove lower rear panel of washer, locate and remove large black hose fatened to bottom of tub, watch out for water running out. Remove and clean plastic filter inside hose. Refit filter and hose, test for leaks. If problem still persists, then could be faulty pressure switch or blockage in the pressure system.
I got an estimate of $125 to fix the Coolpix 7900 door, and the camera probably isn't worth that much. So I looked more closely at the camera to create a jury rig fix. As I never use a tripod with the camera, I thought about using the threaded tripod mount. I found a very short 1/4 inch thread screw in my garage and cut a thin metal strip to about 2 1/4" x 1/2". I then drilled a 1/4" hole at one end of the strip, laid the strip across the door and tightened the screw through the 1/4" hole and into the tripod mount. The door is now secure. To remove the battery, I simply loosen the screw a little with a dime and pivot the metal strip out of the way. There are many variations that can be done similarly such as using a plastic strip and a plastic 1/4" bolt or even a shorter strip that just covers the door.
×