Replacing 185sq ft. Of a concrete block ( 8" x 16 ")wall ...how much block that cost $1.22 ea. Would cost?

First off you need to make certain that he is going to jackhammer the old driveway and remove it from your property. I guess before that, be sure to get a reputable contractor to do it. Check with BBB if you would like to.. Then jackhammer and remove. Be certain that they are replacing the driveway with the proper thickness. I believe it is 4". They will lay down 4"x 4" wire sitting on little blocks called "adobe" blocks to suspend the wire off of the bottom.Be certain that they put crack reliefs in when they are finishing concrete. Those are the indentations that they put in due to the expansion and contraction of the concrete so it will crack in the indentations instead of on the slab. Be certain that they form up the driveway before the wire. They put 18 or 24" stakes in the ground and then nail the wood formers to the stakes. This is what hold the concrete in. They will pour it in one day then trowel it, install the expansion reliefs and then they will take a soft hair 24" pushbroom and give it a light brush finish. All of the edges will be troweled and rolled over nicely. Be certain that he doesn't over order on concrete. Basically it is length x width x depth 27 cu ft. = 1 cu. yard. There will be a small portion over to allow for any problems. This is normal. The next day they will come back, pull the forms and your good to go. Be sure to get 3 estimates. Good Luck!

the driveway is 146 cubic ft of material but to get the rest you have to have a 3rd dimension to get it to cubic capacity
so apron is 18 ? by2.5 fy by ? thick
blocks 5 X5 ft X ?
22 linear feet requires l X B X depth to get cubic measurement (linear measure is just a length measurement--not a volume measurement)
side walk blocks of 600 is no measurement in cubic measurement
snap back walk ways 3 X 35 ' X? to get cubic ft
if you have a total of 200 what --cubic feet , cubic yards
I'm guessing here but I take it that you want to know how much concrete you will need to do the job

Hi, have you tried T S P concentrate for the wall treatment.

Figure 1 90 lb. bag per square ft., 6" deep.
Don't forget sand to grade and rebar to reinforce.
You probably won't find enough guys to mix all that concrete, so you'd really be better off hiring a concrete truck.
Tip: It's best to over estimate a little so you won't be caught short.

These are not the same, so cannot be directly converted.

Pounds per sq ft is a measure of pressure, while lbs / cu ft is a measure of density, weight per unit volume.

I think maybe what you are doing here is converting the weight of concrete in a 1" slab, where a sq ft would contain

1 x 1 x 1/12 = .0833 cu ft

The figure of 150 lb/ cu ft is correct for the average density of concrete, so the above slab would have

1/12 x 150 = 12.5 lbs/sq ft at 1" thickness

BTW that is a thin slab of concrete, insufficient even for a light-duty pathway. If you are referring to a screed for tiling or similar, that is cement.

Go to Home Depot, Rona or to any hardware store, and they will show you different staff to repair the cracks.Very economical.

Your drill will drill a hole at any speed, the drill bit needs to be sharp to drill the mateirial.The type of wall material is important.Drywall is soft but a masonry bit should be used.A masonry bit has a flat bar accross the point and slower speeds are best.Wood walls / studs you need wood bits that are sharper and medium to high speeds are used.Concrete or Block walls again require Masonry bits.If very hard concrete as in foundation walls or filled block the use of a Hammer drill will work much faster.Good Luck

What is in the room above the basement bathroom?
And how large is the diameter of the vent pipe you need to run?
Do you have a maximum number of elbows, and runs of feet maximum you can't exceed?

Is the Frame wall above the foundation, accessible by going up thru the ceiling of the bathroom, and the elbowing over and into the outrside frame wall at that point?-- and then up a ways, and then out thru the outside wall?

Another possibility would be: How far to a window, or vent already in the basement?-- Could you run the piping there, and then out?

How thick is the concrete wall?-- Is it reinforced Concrete-- or just Masonry Block wall? A block wall is not as hard to get thru--

I know I asked a lot of questions-- but maybe it helps you think thru your options?

Le4t me know if I can help further.

Mack B

When breaking Concrete, the breaker is expected to penetrate the material, allowing it to crack and shake loose from the reinforcing steel. High frequency breakers tend to provide better performance in this application as it is not the energy per blow, but the fast blow rate that destroys the concrete's structural integrity. We recommend on concrete walls, footings, and floors to use a 750 - 1,500-ft. lb. breaker. With larger projects, consisting of large footings greater then 4 cu. yards, use a 2,000 - 5,000-ft. lb. breaker. The high production demand of bridge and building demolition requires a 7,500 - 10,000-ft. lb. breaker.

This is the most critical factor in choosing the breaker size. SMALL HYDRAULIC BREAKERS (HAMMERS): up to 1200-ft.lbs. (1627 Joules), are typically used in concrete and other light duty work. MEDIUM HYDRAULIC BREAKERS (HAMMERS): 1200 - 4000-ft.lbs. (1627 - 5423 Joules) are used in both concrete and rock applications with limitations on the size and amount of material to be broken. LARGE HYDRAULIC BREAKERS (HAMMERS): over 4000 ft. lbs. (5423 Joules), are typically used in rock and large scale concrete demolition projects.