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Hours later thermometer in fridge reads 37-38 (yeah!)
Press "Display Temp" button shows fridge at 37F
Within days, the fridge is warmer inside again, thermometer inside reads 45+, but display reads 37 - unit needs to be "rebooted" again!
Fresh food thermistor from top of cabinet measured properly in ice water (and warmer water), the unit has always passed all the self-tests, and condensor coils and fan are clean, so I had techs come give it a shot under home warranty:
Trip 1 - Tech came to assess, ordered new evaporator fan
Trip 2 - Replaced fresh food evaporator fan (note new fan is working in fridge, and old fan works fine on bench)
Trip 3 - Ordered main computer PCBA
Trip 4 - Replaced main computer PCBA
Unfortunately, it continues the same cycle of misreading the temperature until power cycles, and taking a day off of work for each visit is getting painful.
Any ideas?
You have to push some buttons to tell the MAIN unit to scan, then put battery into the REMOTE, set channel, and hit reset through a little hole. And the MAIN should see it.
I have a thermometer with an outside sensor. It's necessary to remove both batteries, wait a few minutes, then replace batteries - sensor first. It may take a few minutes for the inside clock to pick up the signal. If it doesn't, try again with new batteries.
I had the same problem, Since the outside temp wouldn't read, I figured it was the outside unit batteries. Went through half a dozen AAA batteries and wouldn't read. It was the indoor unit. Had the same bats I installed 3 years ago. DUH! Replaced the AAA, and all was well. When the inside batteries die out, it has just enough juice to read indoor temp, but not enought to sense exterior signal.
Your temp sensors are on the heater, a small tube that slides into the water manifold, usually on the left side. On the remote it will be in one of the pipes coming from the pump or the filter. If it is after the heater you should move it to between the filter and heater. It will be a tube that is in the pipe with a stanless steel clamp holding it in place.
To find out wich one it is you will need to remove the remote from the system by takeing the wires that go to it from the wireing inside the heater and wire nuting the wires in the heater together. If the heater runs normal then it is the sensor for the remote if not it is the sensor for the heater. Let me know how you do and if need be we can get a little more specfic for your system. good luck.
I usually dont go with a thermometer temp unless it is sitting in a bottle of water. Now drawer units get the air circulating from the freezer fan. Make sure that is running at a good speed. Also make sure the light is going off when the door is closed. Just close the door and pull gasket toward you and see if a light is on. If it is then make sure the switch is working.If not check the freezer for heavy frost.If yes then you have a defrost problem. If no then you need a tech to check the sealed system.
The thermostat will not cut off the A/C until the thermometer reading gets to 76.
If there is not a heat source near/behind the thermostat which is causing the thermometer to read higher than actual room temperature, it sounds like the thermostat thermometer is out of calibration.
There are ways to calibrate it, but much to involved to go into here.
One solution is to just set the thermostat at 80, knowing that it's really set on 76.
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