The kit includes a line plug with 2 screws for wires. assuming it is a phone wire that is to be used which of the 4 phone wires should be inserted into the line plug.

You need a Goodman SPW-01 Single Point wiring kit.
You can find them on alpinehomeair.com .
Description as follows:
The SPW-01 single point kit creates one power supply for heater kits with two circuit breakers. It is compatible with heater kits HKR-15C, HKR-20C, and HKR-21C when installed in a single-piece Goodman brand air handler or modular blower. Use this kit when you have a single 240 Volt line powering your equipment.
Included in the Goodman SPW-01 Box:

• 1 Power Block
• 1 Mounting Bracket
• 4 Wires
• 2 #6 Pan Head Screws
• 2 #10 Self-drilling Screws
• 1 Power Block Cover

Are the phone cables correctly connected to the base unit? Try a new cable for Line 2, if you have separate L1 and L2 jacks. (If the lines are integrated in one jack, make sure to use a 4-conductor RJ11 cord.) I assume the service hasn't been cancelled for line 2 and that you are at a wall plate with both lines.
If you have separate jacks, I like to use a different phone to check the jack. (A simple old fashioned corded, single-line phone is useful to check for a dial tone.) Try checking Line 2 at another jack, if you have one.
If you do not have a dial tone, find where your service comes in. Open the box and look at the terminals. If you are lucky, you have an RJ11 port. Plug in your test phone in to the Line 2 connection and listen for a dial tone. If there is no dial tone, contact your telephone company. They will fix an outside line problem for free. (Mice and other things can damage the wiring. A lightning strike could damage a filter if you use the line for a high-speed internet connection.) If the terminal doesn't have an RJ-11 plug option, you will need to ask your telephone company to test the line.
If you recently had work done on the phone line, check for any wires that are loose. When we got our phone line upgraded to fiber optics, one of the telephone jack lines didn't get connected to the terminal in the new box. We found the wire behind the vinyl siding and got signal as soon as the wire was reconnected.)
If you have a dial tone at the box and no wires are obviously disconnected, you'll need to trace the wires inside to find a broken connection. If one jack worked for Line 2 and another didn't, check inside the wall plate. There are two wall-plate styles. The ones with a keystone jack needs the conductor wires pushed down into the correct slots. A punch-down tool is available from most hardware stores in the wiring section. The screw terminal type requires the individual wires to be stripped and then secured. The correct terminal positions are shown here: http://www.lanshack.com/wire_phone_jack.aspx . Otherwise, you need to trace the wires in the walls to find the break in the continuity. Your phone company will do this for you for a fee. If you have a line filter inside, try replacing it.

I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells
(I've called the phone company several times when we lost one line. Mice and lightning damage to the filter have both been culprits.)

Most amps have 3 places where you need to hook up wires to power them. the 1st is a ground wire that at best is 1 foot long and it goes on the ground or negative 12 volt connection then a bolt on the car you may need to sand off the paint for it to work, 2 a RMT or remote wire that is normally in the middle of the power and the ground connections the remote turns the amp on and off so it needs to go to the remote wire on the radio or a ignition spot on the fuse box - turns on with key on and off when you turn the key off , 3 the power wire is hopefully large 4 gauge wire and goes to the + 12 volt plug on the amp this wire has a in line fuse and goes to the battery and to the amp only. RCA wires go from the radio to the amp and are round and just plug in with no screws some factory radios need a conversion kit you can get at walmart for RCA wires. the speaker wires have some sort of mark or line to tell you what to put were like if you put the line on a negative on the amp you need to put the line on the negative on the speaker box to or it will not bass and could hurt your amp. ask me if you need anything else :) and please rate :/

When a cordless phone says "Out of Range" or "Searching for Signal", there are a number of possible issues (assuming you are close to the base). 1) The handset battery may be low and not taking a charge. If the battery is more than a year old (including time spent in storage), replace the batteries for both handsets.
2) The base may not have power or an incoming telephone line signal. Check that the power adapter is warm (power to the base). Use another phone cord (and a second phone (preferably corded) to check for a dial tone). If a second phone has no dial tone, see below for diagnosing a phone line.
3) The phone base has lost the registration information for the handsets. A way to reset the phone is to unplug the power cord (from both the wall outlet and the phone base) and the phone data line and unplug the batteries from all handsets. Wait several minutes then plug in the base power and data cords and then reconnect the phone batteries. You may want to re-register the handsets. This is done by putting the handset in the main charging base for 20 seconds when the handset is fully charged. (See your phone manual) The phone was made by Thomson Electronics for GE; the manual is available here: http://www.home-electronics.net/USER-GUIDES/25952_DOM_EN_CL_IB.pdf .
4) The phone base or handsets are not transmitting or receiving the signals properly. This means that the phone needs repair or replacement. If it is under warranty, contact the manufacturer. Otherwise decide if the phone is worth the repair costs.

If you have no dial tone at the jack where the base is connected, check another phone jack on that line. If you still have no dial tone, find where the phone service comes in. Then open the service box and if the service is fairly new, plug in the RJ-11 test phone and listen for a dial tone. If you can't plug in the phone cord or there is no dial tone, contact your service provider. They will test and fix any outside problem.

If the problem is inside, inspect the visible wires. If you have a DSL filter as part of the inside wiring, check/replace it. If only one jack has a problem, open the faceplate and fix any loose wires. There are two faceplate designs - screw terminals or keystone jacks. For the screw-type, the conductors must be stripped and secured under the screws. For the keystones, the conductors are not stripped but pressed into the terminals with a punch-down tool. This tool is available at many home improvement stores in the wiring aisle. See http://www.lanshack.com/wire_phone_jack.aspx for a diagram of the wiring.

If the problem is not in a visible part of your wiring, you may want a professional to find and fix the problem. Your telephone provider will be willing to do the work for a fee.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hello, I will suggest you get these few tools before you with the replacement.
(1) Spark plug socket with rubber insert to hold plugs in place while inserting & removing.(2) 6inch extensions for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench,(1) Swivle Socket extension for your 3/8ths inch socket wrench.(1) 1/2inch socket for exhaust manifold screws. A little quantity of anti-sieze for the spark pluggs to be applied to the pluggs if they are proving difficult to get out.
Start with the 1st cylinder at the front of the engine on the passanger side.
STEP 1.
Twist & remove the spark plug boot from the existing plug.
STEP 2.
You have to use a very small flat edged screwdriver to open the clips that hold the plug wires together.
STEP 3.
Use a 6" extension & a 3" extension & your deep socket for the spark plug.
STEP 4.
Remove the first plug and replace the old plug with a new Bosch Platinum Plus 2 prong plug and use some anti-seize on the threads and tighten to the appropriate torque.
STEP 5.
Remove the old plug wire from the coil pack. It will be going to the 2nd coil pack (located to the rear of the first coil pack) and install the new plug wire in the coil pack.
STEP 6
Repeat steps 1-7 for plugs on 2 & 3.
STEP 7.
To remove Plug #4 which is the last plug on the passanger side,you have to remove the two (2) 1/2inch bolts that holds a bracket to the exhaust manifold. Make sure you spray the studs these bolts are on with some DW-40 or liquid wrench. The exhaust manifold studs might have a lot of rust & being difficult to turn nuts off without shearing off the stud. It has some sort of aluminum box ontop of this bracket with some sensor wires coming out of it, Slip the bracket off and simply lay it to the rear of the engine to provide better access to this last cylinder.

STEP 8.
Repeat steps 1-7 for plug #4 and then Remount bracket containing the aluminum box with sensor wires.

Upon completion of the passenger side,you now have to proceed to the driver side.
STEP 1. The first cylinder at the front of the engine the spark plug wire has a grey handle sticking up next to the A/C compressor. Using some pliers (needle nose plier) twist & pull this grey handle. The spark plug boot should pop out.

STEP 2.With the help of the small flat edged screw driver, unhook the spark plug wire clips that hold the wires together. There are 3 - One just after the 1st coil pack located at the front of the engine, another just on the other side of the valve cover and a small 2 clip located about 1/2 way back on the valve cover under the intake manifold.
STEP 3.Remove the spark plug wire from Cylinder #1 on the Drivers side
STEP 4.With the help of the small flat edged screw driver,press the 4 connection points on the grey handle that is attached to the wire,it will separate down the middle and allow you to remove the wire, Replace the wire with the new wire,you have to ensure you line up the rubber round plugs with the round holes in this grey handle & snap it back together with the new wire in place.

STEP 5.Hold the spark plug socket in your left hand down near the plug,feed a 6" inch extension below the A/C Compressor line (black pipe) and the A/C Compressor with your right hand and attach the spark plug socket into the extension.
STEP 6.Slip the socket onto the plug,afterwards,attach an additional 3 or 6 inch extension to the existing extension & attach your socket wrench.
STEP 7.Remove the plug & proceed to replace it with a Bosch Platinum plug & anti-seize on the threads. Feed the new Spark Plug wire over to the 1st coil pack & replace it on the coil pack.

Your question is not 100% clear because you don't say exactly what device you are wiring or what wires are inside the box.
You posted under switch-plug combo with GFCI.
Add a comment with clear description if instructions below do not apply to your project.

Electricians don't guess, they test, so lets walk through the steps.

1) If you have GFCI combo, there are markings on back of device for 'LINE' and 'LOAD'.
There are also 2 wires sticking out of back of GFCI.

Lets test your wires.
Separate wires inside box for testing.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester. Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to Brass-colored Line screw.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral connects to silver-colored Line screw.
Load wires are wires that go to the fan,light or motor.
Load wires connect to two wires sticking out of back of GFCI device.
Other wires located in electric box could connect to the Load screws, but it is unclear if you have other wires.

2) If you have regular combo switch plug without GFCI, then device has 3 color-coded screws: dark, brass and silver.
Hot connects to dark screw.
Neutral connects to silver screw
Black wire to Load connects to brass screw.
White wire to Load also connects to silver screw

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on wiring.

Hi, and yes you can, its done all of the time. You want to change the plug on the wall, not the cord. That is the way it is done. Very simple. Turn off breaker to the 4- prong. Go to any hardware store such as home depot and get the 3 prong 220 volt female plug, both are the same volts, just made for different cords is all. The male is on the cord. On the 4 prong female plug thats on the wall, just loosen all 4 screws. 2- wires are hot, either black in color, a black with a piece of white tape on it is the neutral, and a bare ground which is much smaller. When installing the 3 prong female, you will use all 4 wire to. 2- hot, ! neutral, and a screw for the small bare ground. There will be a drawing on how to connect the wires with the new plug if you are not sure. Normally, there are 3 black wires, 2 hot , 1 neutral. Some times there may be 2 blacks and 1 red. A black and red will be hot.I am sure they will all be black. The plug is marked on it. It will have L-1, L-2, N, and Ground. When you remove the 4 prong female, it will be marked the same. Be sure the power is off! L-1 and L-2 are hot, and the 3rd is N or neutral. Then the small ground. Very, very, simple to change and to know which is which. The terminals on the plug are colored also. The 2 that are copper colored are for the hot wires. The brass or silver is the neutral. And you will see the ground screw. I hope I haven't confused you, it is very easy. Just when removing the wires to the old plug on the wall, which should be a 4-prong female, the 2 wires on the right and left side of the plug are going to be the 2 hot wires. The other large black is the neutral goes to top or bottom, its marked like I said with a N. and a small bare ground. Always change the plug on the wall to fit the dryer from 3 to 4, or 4 to 3. They are both 30 amp plugs, 220 volt. Very easy, you can do this!! Please rate me on my help to you.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

In order to install A Radio first follow steps of Removing the Factory Radio

#1
Open the center console, and you'll see two phillips screws at the bottom. Unscrew both of them.

#2
Remove the drink tray, and unscrew three more phillips screws. The center console is now loose enough to move.

#3
Pull the center console back a few inches to expose two more screws under the plastic part of the gear shift. Remove these screws.

#4
Pull the ashtray out of the dash, and you'll see one more phillips screw. Remove this screw and pull off the plastic panel around the factory stereo.

#5
Locate the metal tray under the factory pocket (below the stereo), and pull it out of the dash. There will be two phillips screws holding it in place; remove those, and then pull the stereo out of the dash. You'll need to unplug the wiring harness that is plugged into the back of the radio.


Now Install The New Stereo

#1
Assemble the dash kit, as shown in the instructions. Put it into the dash where you just took the stereo out. There will be a rectangular opening, and a pocket underneath. The opening is where the radio will go.

#2
Secure the dash kit by screwing in the one screw in the ash tray, and the two in the opening of the panel.

#3
Insert the metal cage that came with the stereo into the opening above the pocket. Ensure that the fit is flush with the pocket. Using a screwdriver, bend the metal tabs upward, which holds the metal cage in place.

#4
Start wiring the stereo harness to the wiring harness. Match wires color by color until all of the wires are paired. For example, if you find a purple wire coming out of the aftermarket wiring harness, plug it into a purple wire from the factory harness. You aren't touching any of the wires in your dash on this step, you are simply wiring the new stereo to the wiring harness.

To connect these wires you'll want to place a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires, strip the ends, twist both ends together, and then pull the heat shrink over the exposed metal parts of the two wires. Heat the heat shrink with a lighter until it shrinks and forms a tight bond between the two wires. When done correctly, you won't be able to pull the wires apart.

#5
Plug the aftermarket harness into the factory plug, and insert the radio back into the dash. If you find wires that don't have a match, be sure to cap them so that the ends aren't exposed. Exposed wires are what cause shorts and electrical problems.

#6
Work in reverse order to put the dash back together. The radio won't be secure in the dash until the dash is put back together.

Hope this helps

Thanks

I have a VGR36 6 burner. All the spark ignitors stopped clicking after a major boilover spill. Liquid got into the spark module compartment and caused a short. The paper wiring diagram under the spark module protective cover was burned from the short. I had a Harper 6542 non-reignition spark module but the replacement part is now a Tytronics PA020041 Spark Module. I bought kit #000511-000 from allvikingparts.com which includes the module, a black jumper wire, a green ground wire and an instruction sheet.

It's not difficult to replace the spark module but the 2 screws holding down the module toward the back of the stove are not visable and accessible. I used a thumbwheel rachet with a long philips screw driver bit (for cordless drills) to remove and replace the screws. The wiring was simple. The 2 power wires need to be wired to the correct polarity on the module, but the remaining 4 ignition wires can be wired to any of the 4 terminals on the new module. All the wires have plug in connectors and no cutting and splicing is necessary, but I had to cut and splice because one wire shorted and the insulation was burned from the major spill on my stove.