I have tried the stitch regulator but it is not working
SOURCE: Blind stitch won't lock
This is hard to find in the internet so I hope this will solve your problem...
Frequently Asked Questions
Q) Help!
I am breaking a lot of needles and the tension is getting too tight on
its own while stitching and causing the thread to break. I am learning
the machine for two weeks. Is it so sensitive too wools, cottons, and
fleece that this would make such a major difference in the stitching -
breaking needles, breaking thread?
(A) It may not be tension that is causing the problem with your portable
blindstitch. If you have broken needles it has probably left some
needle burrs in the thread and needle path that need polishing off with
fine emory cloth (crocus) before sewing again.
Start with a new LWx6T needle without thread or fabric. Watch the
needle as you turn the hand wheel. If there is needle deflection,
reduce the penetration dial until there is no needle movement. If there
is needle deflection caused by burrs, they must be polished off. Check
the looper tip and two arms for any needle burrs and polish off. If
there is needle deflection caused by the needle track lifting the
needle, lower the track very slightly with the screws on the side of
the black metal bracket above the needle.
Finally, Back off on the tension dial and retighten while you are
sewing with a light strong thread and light to medium weight fabric,
until you get the correct tension without loops. If tension is too
tight it will push the thread up so it is not all the way down between
the tension discs where it belongs.
(Q) I can't understand how to finish off at the end. It
always unravels. I have read the manual and it seems simple but I
apparently just "don't get it." Any help would be appreciated.
(A) At the end of the blindhem seam, position the needle all the way to the left, then use the knee lift to remove the fabric and jerk on the fabric at the same time. That will tie off the tread and break the thread at the
needle without bending the needle. You can weave the thread tail back into the stitches or cut it off. Before the above procedure, you could also turn the handwheel counterclockwise for a few stitches, then come back to the end of the seam and repeat the first procedure above.
SOURCE: Needle Thread breaking after about 30 seconds of quilting
Make sure the feed dogs are dropped (or feed dog cover is on - I can't remember which way this machine works). The stitch length on the machine has no function so ignore it. (I set it to zero so the machine doesn't have to work as hard). Hopefully this is all that's wrong. If not, use a shorter setting for the stitch length on the regulator, oil the hook and move slowly and smoothly.
Good luck!
SOURCE: singer 221-1 stitching is good on bottom but not on top
pucker is caused by too loose or, to tight adjustment of: the thread tensioners both the bobbin tensioner and, the needle tensioner need to be adjusted: to adjust the needle tensioner turn the side knob clockwise is tighter counterclockwise loosens; the bobbin tensioner is a tiny screw on the bobbin holder adjust both tensioners until your stich loops' both top and, bottom are tight but, the machine does not break the thread
SOURCE: trying to sew straight stitch but stitch loose and...
No top tension, follow manual to thread top again and make sure tension dial is set to 5 and thread is pulled between the tension discs fully.
SOURCE: shark 384 - how can i get a straight stitch?
with the Shark Euro-Pro X machine, you need to bring the stitch width to zero it's the nob on top of the machine the manual states not to use it wider then 3 with the double needle cause it can break the needle. but either stitch selection "A" or "S" will give straight stitching with width at zero.
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