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Re: Just replaced a rheem oem 1/6 hp motor 3 wires with a...
Green wire cut off if motor is held on with metal bracket.white/yellow to contactor,black to other side contactor. brown/wht to fan on capacitor,brown to common on contactor NOT HERM.
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"the guy" added another start capacitor because the motor installed is actually better than spec. Your unit calls for 1/5 HP, 1050 RPM motor. The installed device is 25 rpm faster, and 1/4 HP.
The Rheem/Weather King/Corsaire/RUUD part number is 51-23055-11 (replaces many other Rheem/Corsaire/Weather King/RUUD Part #s including 51-21855-01)! It takes a 3 uf Capacitor rated at 370 volts. This Motor mouts with screws in the SIDE, instead of mounting studs coming out the back!!
Normal price for a generic motor w/ cap will be $125 or so, OEM part will be closer to 200. This is without the fan blade. Make sure you get the correct side mount studs.
This vintage unit is rated at only 10 SEER and is less energy efficient than a modern window air conditioner. Its days are numbered, and you are paying at least double every time it runs. Before you sink much money into this unit, please consider replacing it before it has a heart attack. Replacing it during the off season is cheaper anyway.
That is correct...if you have done that and still have problems post a comment that includes a description of what is happening and the motor model and serial number for further assistance.
There are many different types of motors. you should have a diagram on the inside of the wiring compartment cover. This is a dayton diagram, but I can't be sure it is the same as the motor you have.Notice line terminals remain the same, but that the internal wires change terminals.
OK, locate the terminals on the capacitor marked "HERM"(Compressor lead), "FAN", and "COM".(common)
HERM and COM remian as they are.
The wire going to "FAN" (usually brown) will be placed on either terminal of the new capacitor. (This is the ((usually brown)) wire comming off of the fan motor.) An additional wire needs to be run from the other terminal of the new capacitor to the "COM" on the old capacior.
What you are doing is bypassing the fan side of the old capacitor but still using the compressor side of the old Cap.
The fan should have a wiring diagram on it to help identify the wires if there is no brown wire. The other two wires will be identified on the wiring diagram as well, but one typically goes to the contactor and the other to the board.
When hooking up capacitor on a pump it doesnt really matter which way the wires go. The capacitor is set up in such a way the it supplys power wherever the wires are hooked up. I hope this helps
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