RESET REMOTE .TURNED OFF MAIN SUPPLY.CLEANED FILTERS
Usually when an AC runs a couple of mins then turn off is due to a couple of things; (is there a blinking light as well?)
1. Gas pressure is too low so AC is cutting off on the coil sensor
OR
2. The Coil Sensor itself is defective
Two sensors are located inside the evaporator with one at the front of the coil (room sensor) and one at the side if the coil inside a copper sleeve (Coil Sensor)
Remove both sensors.using a multimete, turn it to measure resistance in ohms then take the wires of the sensors and touch them with the meter leads. You should get an ohmic reading in kilo-ohms usually between 4k-10k ohms. With the leads connected, rub the sensor between your fingers and see if the value of the resistance change, it should.
If your reading is in ohms 0-999 the sensor is bad.
Note that the value of the sensor should be replaced with the same value or else it would not work i believe LG units are compatible with 8k ohm sensors
SOURCE: No Display on controller
Try replacing the battery but if it wont work you need to replace the remote control itself, but for the main time you can operate the unit by pressing the emergency switch button to operate the unit manually.
SOURCE: LG Room Air Conditioner Model
I would say that your return air sensor is faulty or not positioned correctly. Check sensor
SOURCE: LG S36AHP-UD7 Split Air Con. won't turn on.
Generally when an ac trips the main breaker and the breaker its self isn't bad, the compressor is going bad or is bad. To check you will need to do an ohms test on the compressor. If you get a reading of less than infinite, then the compressor is bad. You will need to test every lead going to the compressor which is usually 3 unless you have a crank house heater installed but they are not typical on a small unit. If the compressor has gone bad it is possible the it took the board out as well.
SOURCE: have a reverse cycle split system LG aircon
Hi, dealing with these ductless split systems on a daily basis, I can say you have checked some of the things I would have wanted you to check, which is good on you're part.Blowing Room Temp. air in both heating and cooling indicate that the compressor is not running even though the outdoor condenser fan is on.There are several things that could cause this. You have a compressor run capacitor that starts the compressor, but I am thinking on you're unit, it has a dual capacitor that runs the compressor and fan together. Fan is on, so I will rule this out.These units are notorious for leaking freon as the Liquid line and suction lines are not brazed, they are put together with connectors that tend to leak over time. If it is low enough on Refrigerant gas, the compressor will shut off and stay off on low pressure. This unit has a low pressure switch that has normally closed contacts, that opens and stops the compressor from any damage which in turn, you will have no cooling or heating.Do this for me, turn the unit on in cooling, lower T-stat way down so outdoor unit comes on. Go to the out door unit and where the elect. wiring and lines go into unit you will see to copper lines. The largest of the 2 lines is the low or suction line.Wrap you're hand around it and it should be nice and cold. If it is warm, just touch the smaller line, it should be rather warmer, almost hot.If both lines are of normal temp. you are either out of freon or the compressor isn't running.You can remove panel to get to it and put your hand on it to see if it is on. If the lines were of normal temp. and the compressor is not on, more than likely you have lost the charge.Look it over, the wiring to see if you see anything burned or connections burned off and so on. You can check the 3 wires going into the compressor by turning off the power at breaker and removing the cap covering wires just to make sure these wires are intact. sometimes one will get hot from power and burn off. If you see this problem, it would be something you could fix.If all looks good, go back to the copper lines and being this is a Heat-Pump, you should have 3 fittings where we install our gauges to check and fill systems with freon. Look for one that is on the unit itself and remove the plastic cap.Don't be alarmed if you do as nothing will come out.If you look inside the valve, and you see a Schrader core, you can depress it with a nail or something small, just enough to see if it has a lot of pressure in it.If very little or none, the system is out of freon. You will have to call a tech out to find leak and evacuate and re-charge system.I wanted to give you many things to check so you and I would know what the problem is, a process of elimination. If you have a lot of pressure, then more then likely you have a faulty compressor. If you feel that you would rather not check the electrical or depress the Schrader, I fully understand.You can at least check the temp. of the lines and listen to see if the compressor is running, and if it is with warm lines it is still low on freon.Please keep me informed, and again the long explanation was for you to understand more about you're system operation. Sincerely, and best of luck,
Shastalaker7
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Hi Anonymous, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?
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