What does the do mean on the lae electronic control panel of a t23fg true fridge

The target temperature is 0'F or minis 28'C +/- 2'.

Sales information, Parts and Manual in the links

True TG2F-2S Parts & Manuals

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331 items - Find genuine OEM True TG2F-2S replacement parts at Parts Town with the largest in-stock inventory ... How to find your True model and serial number.

TG2F-2S - Tzanet

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Model: TRUE FOOD SERVICE. EQUIPMENT, INC. Project Name: Location: ... TG2F-2S. TG Spec Series: Reach-In Solid Swing Door Freezer. TG2F-2S.
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TRUE TG2F-2S SPECIFICATIONS Pdf Download ...

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View and Download True TG2F-2S specifications online. TG Series Reach-In Solid Door Freezer. TG2F-2S freezer pdf manual download.

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If the power /freezer is set the blue snow flake remains lit.
How do use the digital control panel on my Samsung fridge freezer

to turn off for normal operation and power save push and hold power/freezer button for 3 seconds.

Your control board is reacting to a surge in power. Unplug the unit for 5 minutes then replug and follow normal starting procedures. If that does not work think about buying a new unit.

Contact the manufacture, it is most likely going to be covered under warranty. If the knob is not removable, (check for a set screw on the side of the knob it will take a small allen wrench) Then the thermostat (temp controller) will need to be replaced, if it isn't a style that you can calibrate.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Well, its good that it is still cooling, however since you cannot adjust the temps, you do still have a problem, and one that may include the unit fails to cool properly.

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Hello there:
first make sure that the back of the unit is clear of any dirt or obstructions
also make sure that the food is not stacked up so high that the air cannot circulate also you may want to check the temperature setting if the unit does not respond to a lower setting your refrigerant level may be low or than you will have to have the temperature controle thermistor serviced or replaced

I would try this: unplug unit and use a vacuum cleaner and vacuum out the entire area. Not sure what you mean by "running really hard"? If you mean noisy, then see if you can see source after cleaning. Try this and let me know if I can be of any further help.