Need Part #34001122 Motor for Washer

The belts in a Maytag washer

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To check and replace the belts in your Maytag washer do the following ... With RepairClinic's 365 Days return policy you could try any parts, if the new part ... Belt Kit - Part # 402507 Mfg Part # 12112425 · Motor Mount Spring Kit - Part ... Copyrighted 2011 Do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com All rights ...

It is either your gearcase or timer. They both are recommended to be replacd by a repairman.

The repairman was talking about the gearcase (transmission) of the washer. The part number is 35-6615. The cheapest price I could find it was at appliancepartspros.com for about $215. You can go to the website, enter the part number and view it to see what I am talking about. That's still comparable to what your repairman estimated.

The labor for $129 is reasonable as the repair to replace the transmission is extensive. It will include removing the belt and pulley from the bottom of the washer, releasing the brake system, opening the top and front panel of the washer, removing all hoses to the wash tub and removing the entire wash tub to access the transmission.

So...with the cheapest price I could find the transmission, plus the labor charges the repairman quoted you, this still puts my figures in the neighborhood of $340. You also need to consider any seals that the repairman may be replacing too. The tub seal in particular.

I know it may seem like a lot, but I don't think the repairman was being unreasonable with the quote he offered you. You may check your documentation that came with your appliance to see if any extended warranties may have been purchased. The link provided below lists the warranty criteria for Maytag appliances:

http://maytaghomedepot.com/_res/pdf/Bravos%20final%20warranty.pdf

If you have any further questions, please let me know. This may not make you feel any better about the cost, but I hope it eases your mind about the repairman.

You need a new transmition

exploded views and part numbers for your dryer are available at


http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/maytag-parts/model_view_cats.cfm?model=lde303

CALL 1-800-905-9505 FOR A&E FACTORY SERVICE
cancel the call with the other servicer they will come out and fix the issue for you this guy is guessing on the repair that you need a&e will get it right

It seems that your motor on the dishwasher is going out, like mine has just done. First, it seemed that my dishes were not getting cleaned also. My explanation is that you will soon hear a humming noise as if the motor is stuck.My Dishwasher sounds like something is grinding on glass or as if a bunch of mice are making noise. Eventually, the motor will not run any more. What will happen is that the dishwasher will fill up, then make a loud humming noise, while the heating element is making the water near the heating element sizzle. Now what you have is a possible fire hazard which compounds the problem with the dishwasher. I have also heard of other parts going bad on this model. I used to sell Maytag appliances, but Maytag is not like they used to be.I heard that all the appliances are now being made by 2 or 3 different companies, as if Kenmore and Maytag teamed up, and now are trying to create a poor product which breaks down, so right after the warranty, you have to buy another product from them. I believe Ford used to intentionally make a car part break down so as to give the mechanic work in the future. I believe the same idea with Maytag and the repair people is being followed. Either become an appliance repairman or get rid of it, take the loss, learn a lesson and live like my grandmother used to, without having a dishwasher. That is the best advice I can give you.

check the pump it could be stuck

12002535 wax motor, order online from any part warehouse local sears will do it as well, why do you need that??? just curios as to why you would be replacing that particular item, di you replace the control behind the console already??? if not check it for burn marks just above the little blue resistor just about in the middle of board

Your repairman is correct. The problem is a rusted spin bearing just under the tub. It is only in use during the spin cycle. Parts are about 50-70 bucks but it's a very difficult job and out of the range of the average do-it-yourselfer. Try to use the machine almost every day to prevent the bearing from freezing up. That way you can get a few more months use out of it before replacing it. If it does freeze up, try to turn the basket manually. It won't move much when its stopped because of the brake. Your repairman probably turned it during the spin cycle by defeating the lid switch.