Sunal tanning bed m# X144459200 In need of wiring diagram if possible The problem im having is when you power the bed all I get is a loud buzzing sound coming from the relay/contactor there is 116 volts coming into the bed but from there Im lost any help would be appreciated
The buzzing sound indicates a problem with the relay itself. It is a simple device whose purpose is to take a small amount of electricity ( like turning your timer switch on) which activates a small electromagnet coil, which then pulls down a metal contact bar which closes a switch to activate a major power consumer ( like the bank of lights on the tan bed).
The reason to do this is so you don't have like 3000 watts or more of power passing thru your timer switch which would require much beefier wiring and controls. SO by using a relay, the relay uses a small amount of power to flip a switch on the major circuit.
The relay buzzing sounds like either the coil in the relay is shorted out (the heat sometimes melts the insulation on the wires in the coil), and the short is taking away enough power from the relay magnet coil that it can't pull down the switch activation bar to switch on the bed.
If you have a voltmeter you can measure the voltage in the activated circuit that powers the bulbs. The wires should be the bigger gauge ones. If you are getting low voltage or no voltage in the secondary circuit (that is the circuit with high amps that runs the bulbs and fans) that is a good indicator the relay is bad .
If oyu know your way around basic electricity, you can isolate one of the ballasts that feed some light bulbs and hook a 110V power source to that ballast and see if some of those lights come on. If they do that is further confirmation the relay is bad and you may need to order a new one
Thanks for all the input so far.
I going to give it a second look tonight. I have a 16 history with Hvac controls but normally can find a wiring diagram.So this is the first time ever seeing the gusts of a tanning bed. Next question could you give a simple sequence of operation I thought I read somewhere that the twist timer goes directly to the relay but this one the two wires lead under the bulb section of the bottom bed. Thanks again for any help.
I followed the wires from main power(120 volts) to where they enter the contactor and jumped them with the wires coming out the other side of the contactor and po
and powered the bed and nothing is there any safetys inline normally to stop voltage to the ballast
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Is it a 30 bulb bed with one facial? The Fanal contactor ZA 1-20 and the DSL9 relay are no longer available. It is replaced with Allen Bradley 160 and C16-400. Get ahold of Sunalparts.com they have them there. Could you email me pictures of the terminal blocks and the Fanal with all the wires that are coming into the fanal. and if possible the picture of the bed. [email protected] and I will help you as much as possible. You can't get the wiring diagram but if I can I can send you what I have. I have dealt with these beds in my salon since 1986 and they are all operating in peak shape
SOURCE: Continuos running blower
hi! there,
blower auto shutting off and on is dependent to thermostat setting,if the thermostat acquired the temperature set it will shut of your blower,checking thermostat performance switch off unit, set this to a lower setting 1 or 0 switch on this should not runof course,if you set up this to 200 this will run until temperature reached to 200 it will stop.when you set up to 1 or 0 and the blower run thermostat is defective.
fan blower relay, if the 3 contactor is short or permanently engage while themostat reached acquired temperature your blower will still running,defenitely relay is defective.relay is dependent to thermostat switching,it supply holding coil terminal is to lock the 3 contactor to supply source to your blower.
so two common option while your blower run continously
1. shut off breaker, disconnect thermostat on two leads,its like a switch.then switch on breaker and run unit.
observe if run, your relay is defective,it was shorted on 3 contactor.
thermostat is the key to run your blower.
2. if the blower not run when you switchn onunit,then switch off again and try to short or connect the two lead using alligator clip on both side,or have it clip the terminals,then switch on again if the blower run,your themostat is defective,the high volatile of filler bulb was leak it always switch on,no play at all to off and on.
have a nice day,don't forget to rate me,thank's
ideas came from actual and theoritical analysis base on experienced and my study of industrial intrumentation.this will guide you and help you,if you understant flow of current in circuit.
have a nice day
SOURCE: Need wiring diagram for Ruud Model UPCA-048jas
The wiring on these is pretty straight forward
Basically a contactor, either DPST or DPDT, depending. Input power connects here.
Compressor C terminal connects to one side. R terminal connects to the other. 1 terminal of the run capacitor connects to the terminal with the R terminal of compressor. The other side of run capacitor hooks to S terminal of compressor. One wire of condensor fan hooks with compressor R terminal, the other condensor fan lead hooks with compressor C terminal.
Only things missing from all this is a hard start kit and crankcase heater. Let me know if you want to know how to hook those up.
SOURCE: I need assistance with swapping out a contactor.
I don’t believe changing the contactor to a double pole contactor will
solve this problem. It appears by your description that bugs are being
attracted to the contact points on the contactor. Changing to a double
pole contactor will not eliminate that problem but only provide another
contact point for the bugs to be attracted to. The most effective
solution would be to replace the current contactor with a sealed design
where the contact points are totally enclosed. Enclosed contactors are
completely enclosed protecting it from bugs and dirt. These type of
contactors are available in the single pole design so no further wiring
modifications are needed. You can consult a professional A/C service
company like mine for more information and assistance.
Hope this helps. Let me know if there's anything I can do for you!
Sam, The Service Expert
Visit Sam's Blog
1.888.HEATCOOL
ServiceExperts.com
SOURCE: need wiring diagram for a carrier 383kav11048075?
There should be a wiring diagram on the panel of the furnace. In the box of the icm 281 is step by step instructions.
Maybe this will help
Take notes on your low voltage wires from the thermostat and condenser. W Y R C G. Write down what color wires go to above terminals.
On your high voltage wiring,
Take the black wire from the transformer and put it on PR-1.
Take the white wire from the transformer and put it on PR-2
Take the black power wire from the panel interlock switch and connect it to L1
Take the white neutral power wire and connect it to L2
Take the black fan motor wire and connect it to HI
Take the red fan motor wire and connect it to LO
Take the white fan motor wire and connect it to COM
Then reconnect your low voltage terminal wires to W Y R C G.
Thats it.
SOURCE: contactor replacement
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Onmost single-phase compressors with a single-pole contactor, there is a solidbar on one side of the contactor instead of having two contacts. One leg ofpower passes down the bar to the capacitor and to the run winding. It passesthrough the run winding of the compressor and from common back to thecontactor. It lands on the load side of the normally open contact of thecontactor. At off cycle, line voltage will be read from one side of thenormally open contact to the other: Line 1 on the line side and Line 2 on theload side via the windings.
Thecrankcase heater will be attached to the contactor with one leg on the loadside and one on the line side of the normally open contacts. At off cycle itwill have line voltage applied to it and will heat the crankcase. Once thecontactor is energized, both the line and load side of the normally opencontacts become one. Since you cannot feed a load with one line of power, thecrankcase heater will not work again until the contactor opens. This is asimple way to turn the crankcase heater off during the on cycle and to turn iton at the off cycle. Exercise caution when checking this type of setup becausepower is always present on the load side of the contactor.
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