I am replacing the power switch on my D4C rainbow vacuum. Can you show me a wiring diagram for the new switch?

Here is the wiring for a D4 switch:

Rainbow D3 D4 SE power switch

Rainbow no longer makes the switch with 6 wires, it comes now with only 4.

GoodVac.com
800-775-6586

You can find a wiring diagram here, Rainbow changed the switch and this is how you wire in the new switch.
Rainbow D3 D4 SE power switch with wiring diagram

GoodVac.com Technician
www.goodvac.com
1-800-775-6586

Are you talking about the power switch. The new power switches have 4 wires sautered to the power switch, where the old ones have 6 wires that slip in and lock into the power switch.

The blue ones are for your power cord, and the black ones are for your vacuum motor, and your power nozzle plug.

Secure one motor wire and one power nozzle plug wire to one of the black wires out of the new switch, and secure the other two, to the other black one from the power switch. It does not matter which ones that you match together. Secure one of each of the power cord to the two blue wires from the power switch. It does not matter which one of them goes to each wire neither. It is AC so power goes both ways.

Use twist on wire nuts to secure the wires to each other, and put some electrical tape around each of them, after you secure them securly with the wire nuts.

It is best to secure the cluster of wires to each other with a pull tie, after you are finished wiring everything.

If you have any more questions let me know. I am a Rainbow seller, and a Rainbow expert also.

Thank you,
Ralph

You can get a wiring diagram at http://www.rainvac.com/schematic.html

You can get all of the manuals, and the full breakdown schematics, of every model there.

If you need me to tell you which wires go where, exactly on the switch, let me know. I am a Rainbow vacuum expert and know everything about almost every model ever made.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

Thank you,

Simply pair 1 each of the power head leads and motor leads on to one terminal and wire the cord as on previous switch.

you have to splice them. Use crimp-on wire connectors (best), or threaded twist-on wire connectors. Do NOT just twist wire strands together and tape wires without using wire connectors . . . that is a NO-NO.

This is not that hard:
1. - remove gasket (it is glued so you may end up damaging it)
2. - remove 4 screws holding baffle

3. - under it you will see 4 more screws holding cap

4. - Four more screws and you will remove cap cover

5. - cut the cable tie, make a note how wires are connected, use flat screw driver to press on the latches holding the switch in while pushing onto the switch OUT. Tension will not let the latches pop back in.

6. - reassemble in the reverse order.
NOTE:
Switch - if you have old style switch installed you will need to push something into each hole next to the wires to release them. There is a cooper lip in each hole that you have to bend a bit to release each wire. Installing new style switch (with 4 wires) - attach one power cord wire to one blue switch wire and another to another blue switch wire. Attach one motor and one power nozzle cord receptacle wire to one black and another pair to another black wire.
Gasket - use weatherstripping glue to glue motor gasket back (you can get some in almost any automotive store)
Need parts - visit our store HERE.

No diagrams - sorry. It is Rexair, Inc. intellectual property and we can not use them...

Good Luck
:-)

Switch is not serviceable.
I think you are talking about old model switch (originally installed in your Rainbow) To remove 6 wires from the switch - push a pin where the wires go into the switch. It will release wires so you can pull them out. Make sure to draw a diagram how to connect them back.

If you need a new switch - go here

As far as I know, that switch with 6 terminals is still available. But if not, I would wire the 2 for the power head and the 2 motor wires together. Then you would have 4 leads to attach.

There is no reset button, but some of those old switches are very touchy . . . if there was some  corrosion, you may not have a good contact (was enough of the new wire insulation stripped away, before putting it into the switch) . . . 
I prefer splicing, rather than going all the way to the switch  . . its just a matter of cutting out the old cord and splicing in the new cord in a convenient spot up in the motor compartment. . . a Rainbow purist would run the new cord all the way up into the power on/off rocker switch that's built into the top of the handle and then wire the new cord in there, directly at the switch . . . that way means no splicing . . . I've done it both ways, but I prefer to splice and use wire connectors inside the motor compartment . . . because going further, all the way up directly into the on/off switch just to avoid splicing the new cord in requires taking more things apart . . . and risks screwing up the power switch . . . that's not worth the extra time and trouble, IMHO.  (This from someone who has dismantled and refurbished over 200 D4C and SE models)