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I have tested coil with a multimeter and tested also my honda whippersnipper which has the same engine and both coils tested the same but i have no spark on my edger, the spark plug gave me spark when placed into the other engine but neither plug will show any spark in the edger.
Okay. You have eliminated the plug. Now disconnect the coil kill wire and try for spark again. Also check grounding between the coil laminates and the cylinder with you ohm meter should read zero.
If grounding okay and with the kill wire disconnected you still get no sparks then replace the coil pack as it probably a failed internal trigger which can not tested for.
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P0351 - Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit
Description:
See the description for DTC P0350.
Possible Causes:
See the possible causes for DTC P0350.
Diagnostic Aids:
See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing
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GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
Coil pack ignition testing
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GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
P0352 - Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
Description:
See the description for DTC P0350.
Possible Causes:
See the possible causes for DTC P0350.
Diagnostic Aids:
See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing
-
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
Coil pack ignition testing
-
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
P0353 - Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit
Description:
See the description for DTC P0350.
Possible Causes:
See the possible causes for DTC P0350.
Diagnostic Aids:
See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing
-
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
Coil pack ignition testing
-
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
P0354 - Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit
Description:
See the description for DTC P0350.
Possible Causes:
See the possible causes for DTC P0350.
Diagnostic Aids:
See the diagnostic aids for DTC P0350.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
Coil-on-plug (COP) ignition testing
-
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
GO to Pinpoint Test JF .
Coil pack ignition testing
-
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
GO to Pinpoint Test JE .
Test the coil electrically
A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured.
Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower
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Hi,
I'm Ben and -- hopefully -- I can provide some meaningful assistance.
I recommend a diagnostic scan to confirm my diagnosis of a malfunctioning coil(s). How to Test and Replace Ignition Coil on BMW 3 Series
The following procedures apply for BMW 3 series (6-cylinders engine) 1992 - 1998 model years. To Test and Replace the Ignition Coil, do the following:
Remove plastic engine covers from top of engine by prying off nut covers and removing cover mounting nuts.
Disconnect harness connector from coil. Connect multimeter between terminal 15 (+) in connector and ground. (use a digital multimeter for the following test). See Fig.1. below BMW 3 series coil harness
Turn ignition on and check for battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present, check wire between terminal 15 and ignition switch. The wiring to terminal 15 (+) of the coil (via the ignition switch) is not fuse protected. Use care when testing this circuit.
Turn ignition off.
Use a multimeter to test coil primary resistance at coil terminals. (primary coil terminals: 1 (-) and 15 (+), primary coil resistance: 0.4-0 .8 ohms; secondary coil terminal and resistance: NA).
Remove coil and inspect coil housing for hairline cracks or leaking casting material . A leaky ignition coil may indicate a faulty engine control module (ECM). Check ECM before installing a new coil.
When replacing ignition coils, ensure that the replacement coil(s) are from the same manufacturer containing the same part code numbers. If individual coils with the correct specifications are not available, all coils should be replaced.
Possible failure of the IGNTION SYSTEM. Check the voltage on the negative side of the HT coil and if there is no pulsating voltage then the electronic ignition has failed. It can be due to no signal from the transducer or a failed unit. test using a multimeter to confirm. remove plugs and test for a good intensity spark before fitting back .
Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.
The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results: * You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.
* No Power in only one Ignition Coil Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark. Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit. You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up. After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.
* No Power at any Ignition Coils The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD. You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary. After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.
Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.
* You got Ground Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.
* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark. Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit. You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up. After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.
* No Ground at any Ignition Coils This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached. You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure). With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle. If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark. Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.
Check your generator coils with a multimeter for continuity. Check primary and secondary ignition coils for proper resistance. If these are correct, and you have no spark, check ground leads and coil contact surface for rust. If all that is correct then you have a CDI issue. What exactly is the problem, and what have you tried so far?
maybe get a new spark plug.make sure your grounded(earthed). did you take the plug out and check for spark against the motor while you cranked the bike over?
Do not hotwire the "-" terminal on the coil. The ignition system modulates the "-" signal to release the sparks. Check the ignition fuse under the dashboard. If good, use a test light at the coil to check for voltage at the coil. If you don't have a test light, you can buy one at a parts store for a few dollars. Connect the test light clamp to engine ground and touch the point to the "+" terminal of the coil. If no voltage, suspect the ignition switch is bad. If there is voltage at the coil, suspect the ignition module is bad. If you have more questions, please let us know.
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