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Mike Warburton Posted on Dec 29, 2014
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The floor of my GE Profile electric over is beginning to rust through - can the floor or oven interior be replaced

I was cleaning the oven and noticed some rust spots on better examination I found a couple of small holes rotted through. The oven is still in excellent shape and wasn't cheap so I would like to keep it if possible

1 Answer

Jorgie the appliance guy

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  • GE Master 5,639 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 18, 2015
Jorgie  the appliance guy
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The plate should be removable

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 878 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2006

SOURCE: GE Profile-electric oven

Copper, F3 means oven temp sensor is open. You need to replace the probe. Easy job. Part number I have for this is WB23X5340, but double check your model number. Look it up on the net to see what you are going after...Catriver..post back

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Ron Coons

  • 2651 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2008

SOURCE: F3 Error Code - GE Electric Oven JTP18

all ge codes f3 are saying ot replace thermal sensor, you can check the harness connecting them for a pinched or burnt wire i guess, as far as getting a part number , you can enter complete modle number her e and look for the sensor, i checked just the partial number you gave and a few different ones showed up
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Cathy Shin

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2008

SOURCE: ge profile oven loc

hey - I figured it out! hold down the 9 and 0 at the same time for 3 seconds! or it might be another combination depending on your oven - it is probably the 2 keys that the messge is under
Yay!
Island2

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 18, 2010

SOURCE: Our GE Profile JTP18 keeps flashing "door lock" since we ran a self clean

most of the time a simple fix.... http://www.geappliances.com/search/fast/infobase/10004586.htm
you have to trick the door lock mech into cycling through the cleaning process (takes about 20 seconds)
Print Range - “LOCKED DOOR” flashes in the display

If “LOCKED DOOR” is flashing in the display of your range or oven, and the self-clean cycle has not been selected, follow the steps below to reset your control:

Motorized Switch

    1. With the door open, locate the door jamb switch on the face of the oven. It will look like a small black post or dowel.
    2. Push it in until the oven cavity light goes off, indicating that the oven believes the door is closed.
    3. While you hold the door jamb switch in this position, complete the following steps.
    4. Press the Clean pad, wait 10 seconds.
    5. When the cycle initiates, press the clear/off or cancel pad immediately to cancel it.
    6. Wait 10 seconds for the display to clear.
    7. The door should unlock and there should not be a need for service.
Manual Switch
    1. Press the Clean pad.
    2. Close the door.
    3. Slide the latch to lock the door.
    4. Hit the cancel button immediately.
    5. Unlock the door.
If the above does not correct the situation, a service technician will need to check your cooking product. To obtain in or out of warranty repair on Major Appliances, you may call 1-800-GE-CARES (800-432-2737) or schedule service online.

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2010

SOURCE: Keep getting F1 error code (constant beep) on my GE profile oven.

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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