Kenmore Elite Microwave, Model 721.66339011, Open Box tbc827 Logo
Ed Duncan Posted on Dec 23, 2014
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Adjust the door to enable easier opening

Just pull as hard as possible

1 Answer

Ronald Rissel

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  • Kenmore Master 715 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 25, 2015
Ronald Rissel
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Apply a LITTLE BIT of grease to the door latches.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

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Microwave genius sensor 1300w

I don't believe it is possible to change the display angle/tilt on this microwave. The unit ships with a protective film over the display that should be removed to make the display easier to read. However, this model is known to be difficult to read unless looking at straight-on. That and needing a flashlight to look at your food with the door open since the internal light does not stay on when door is opened. Good luck!.
tip

Troubleshooting Guide

  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.
0helpful
1answer

Sub-Zero 601 F - when the door closes is re-vacumn seals and take 3-5 minutes before you can re-open the door. Is this time adjustable to something less? This is very inconvenient when working in the...

Q: Why is my door hard to open?
A: Your unit was designed for an airtight seal.
A vacuum seal can form after the door is closed. Wait several seconds for pressure to equalize before reopening the door.

I have had this problem as well. A quick solution is to put a thick straw between the seal and the unit. this usually makes it easier to open. Don't forget to remove it though.
0helpful
1answer

Do0or hinges do not hold the door open.

You did not specify the make or model number of your microwave oven. I'm guessing at a possible simple solution. Is the microwave sitting level? If it is tilted back, the door will want to close. If it tilts forward the door will want to hang open when it's opened. Try shimming, by placing something, like a few layers of thin cardboard, under the back feet, adjust as needed. Your counter or floor may need to be repaired. Good luck.
0helpful
1answer

Door must be closed very hard to get the inside light to go off.

Adjust and test the door switches. There is possibly one that is not latching.
It is possible to adjust the switches from within the cover but not the cavity.
Hope that helps.
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Panasonic door handle (not push button) hard to open

I have had some success by taking WD-40 and lifting up on the hooks sticking out of the door and spray under the Bottom part of the hook into the door area. That lever guides through a metal slot that is part of the inner door. Sometimes that will help. I know you have to open the door but yanking it like that will eventually break off the metal huide part of the door and the inner door will have to be replaced.
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1answer

Shut door oven stays on. hit hard on left side it goes off

When door is closed, it activates 2 or 3 door limit switches depending on design .By bumping door hard, one of the limits are disrupted. that switches off the micro.(you are lucky by default because if wrong limit is switched accidently there could be a very loud bang.).
Pull plug out and remove cover. look for limit switches situated near door latch. Try and adjust limits to make a better contact on the door latches. Please note voltages very high on power side even though switched off. Just work at the door area.
0helpful
2answers

The closed door doesn't always hit the limit switches

I strongly suggest that you do not attempt to adjust the hinges.

The door switch mounts are either cracked or need to be adjusted.

Door switch mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door.

This may be a little more info that you need and it's from a Sharp service manual, but the general principles apply:

1. Disconnect the power supply cord, and then remove outer case.

2. Open the door and block it open.

3. Discharge high voltage capacitor.

If the door sensing switch, secondary interlock switch and monitor switch do not operate properly due to a misadjustment, the following adjustment should be made.

4. Loosen the two (2) screws holding latch hook to the oven cavity front flange.

5. With door closed, adjust latch hook by moving it back and forth, and up and down. In and out play of the door allowed by the upper and lower position of the latch hook should be less than 0.5mm. The vertical position of the latch hook should be adjusted so that the door sensing switch
and secondary interlock switch are activated with the door closed. The horizontal position of the latch hook should be adjusted so that the plunger of the monitor switch is pressed with the door closed.

6. Secure the screws with washers firmly.

7. Check the operation of all switches. If each switch has not activated with the door closed, loosen screw and adjust the latch hook position.

After adjustment, check the following.

1. In and out play of door remains less than 0.5mm when in the latched position. First check upper position of latch hook, pushing and pulling upper portion of door toward the oven face. Then check lower portion of the latch Figure C-3. Latch Switch Adjustments hook, pushing and pulling upper portion of door toward the oven face. Both results (play in the door) should be less than 0.5mm.

2. The door sensing switch and secondary interlock switch interrupt the circuit before the door can be opened.

3. Monitor switch contacts close when door is opened.

4. Re-install outer case and check for microwave leakage around door with an approved microwave survey meter.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
1helpful
1answer

Kenmore elite advantium microwave

GE Customer Service is here. They may refer you to their Answer Center.
0helpful
1answer

Repair or replace?

MICROWAVES ARE MADE TO BLOW THE FUSE IF THERE IS A POSSIBLY OF DANGER--THAT'S A GOOD THING...SAFTY SWITCHES ARE MADE TO CLOSE(SOME UN-CLOSE) WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN AND SHUT AND IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU DO HAVE A LITTLE DOOR PROBLEM---THE REPAIR SHOULD BE FIXABLE AND MAYBE REASONABLE,,MY GUESS COST-WISE ,,,75.00,,OF COURSE ,IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE SERVICE COMPANY--TRY AN INDEPENDANT SERVICER (NOT SEARS,ETC) GOOD LUCK TUNICA
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