The code Service REQ#0001001B Tells me headdriver temperature error ... How do I fix that. Performing a cleaning cycle is not the answer when you cant boot up the printer. Any help would be appreciat

Epson Stylus Pro 4800 - Error Code: 0001001B

Printcopy.info https://printcopy.info > brand=Epson > code=0001001B
Code: 0001001B · Description: Head driver (TG) temperature error · Causes: • Print Heat increase due to empty jetting of ink • Faulty contact of Head FFC, broken ...

Service Req 0001001B?

T-Shirt Forums https://www.t-shirtforums.com > ... > TexJet
Jul 23, 2013 - The 1001B error indicates a temperature problem in the print head. In most of these cases, it means that after a print head and/or damper unit ...

Service Req 0001001B, Help!
May 19, 2012
Error Code 00010028?
Jul 14, 2013
Service Required 0001001D
Oct 30, 2012
Error Message 00010035
Sep 30, 2020
More results from www.t-shirtforums.com

Question edited for clarity and add Maker.
Question moved to maker category.

Number 1 Tip, never ever use the self cleaning feature. It only exists to break the appliance and create the need for parts and service calls. The temperature is just too intense for the parts.

A self-cleaning or pyrolytic oven is an oven which uses high temperature (approximately 932 °F (500 °C)) to burn off leftovers from baking, without the use of any chemical agents. The oven can be powered by domestic (non-commercial) electricity or gas.

Why You should Never Run A Self Clean Oven Cycle & ...

General Appliance Service https://www.generalappliancesvc.com > why-you-shou...

Jan 29, 2020 - A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters with an extremely high temperature (932 F° or ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The only thing suggested is doing a power cycle, but the heat has probably fried the control board which is located too close to the oven and all that heat.

https://www.google.com/search?q=KitchenAid+KGSS907SSS00+F3+E3+Error

..

Thank you for your inquiry, Lucie!

From what you have described your Frigidaire oven lock is stuck open and you are receiving error codes "F9" and "DR". The "F9" error code stands for runaway temperature (overheating). This could be an issue with your RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) or the EOC (Electronic Oven Control). I would recommend performing a reset on your oven and you can do that by disconnecting from your oven for ten minutes. The "DR" code means that the door is not closed or the door latch is not recognizing the door is closed. This could be an issue with your door latch or control panel. If the reset does not help correct your issues I would recommend having a professional technician out to perform a proper diagnosis and repair. Best of luck! -Matt

You can try this: http://photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00NMwT

Hi Carol.

First make sure that you are performing clean procedure correctly. If you press both bake and broil and then self clean, then instead of self clean the oven will go in child lock beeping twice. Two beeps may also be result of incorrect temp calibration. Perform calibration as suggested in the extract from service manual below:





Before starting the self clean cycle the electronic control (ERC) performs checkout of door latch and temperature sensor, lock motor is activated and both relay for bake and broil start the cleaning cycle. If one of the conditions is not met the electronic control will beep and you may get an error code.

Make sure that both bake and broil are working. If one of the two functions is not working, then one of the relays in the power board is likely faulty: If the oven is not heating at all , then problem is usually the oven sensor.

If the rest is working the problem can be the door lock motor. The relay board and control module may also be causing the problem. The oven must be tested.

This GE range is mostly electronic. Testing is mostly done following the diagnostic procedures suggested in the technical repair manual.

The first procedure is error code reading (user level). This consists in reading the error codes stored in the oven electronic control (AKA ERC).

Here an extract from service manual showing the procedure:




The procedure can be found in the Service Manual at the bottom of this document. Check page 19 of the service manual.at the bottom of this document. When performing the test look for error FF and F2, which respectively mean door latch and oven sensor problem. (codes at page 24 of service manual.

After the error code test, test individually door latch, sensor and lock motor. Perform the tests at page 22 of manual:






If the test does not return any error, then the door latch and motor must be tested manually as explained at page 21 of service manual.

HERE THE COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL IN PDF FORMAT (click to open).

Regards.

Ginko

Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
This is a Free answer, Please rate me.

did you used a non-original ink cartridge? if you did your printer says"ERROR 0001001B" is print head error. need to be replaced, send to repair.

When determining a solution for an error, always look to what changes you instituted just prior to the error. In my case, I switched from FW to USB. That brought on the 0001001b head driver (tg) temperature error. When I switched back to FW, the error went away and the SP4000 display reads "Ready"

The service manual says
"0001001B Head driver (TG) temperature error"
Head failure or head cable splicing defective/breaking of wire
Solution

Head cable joint

Head Assy exchange

You might try pausing the printer for 10 minutes, before it gets to the halfway point to let it cool down, then un-pause it.

You don't say how large the canvas is. If it is 44" by 60" or something large, above might be OK, if it is only 24" x16", it might be more trouble than it is worth, unless you are only printing a few.

try this turn off the printer

then...

hold the power button and the pause button together, it enters factory rest mode