When it first acted up I took out the element and found the terminal block melted, so I replaced it. A few months later it melted again, so I replaced it again along with the surface element. Later it melted again so I replaced the element control switch and the terminal block., and once again it melted the terminal block. Can you help before I get rid of it once and for all.
Brother Jeff, this happens all the time because the connections are not perfect, causing arcing at the point around the connection. This arcing makes for excessive heat and melts the block. I replaced the connections on my Mothers stove top with crimped connectors and it lasted a lot longer. They didn't burn out any more, she just needs a new stove. So your best bet is to use crimp on connectors instead of the OEM block that's melting from a loos connection.
I have the same exact problem with the left front burner. It has been replaced twice and I just noticed the block is starting to look a little melted again. sometimes I wiggle the element a little because it isn't heating up I can even see the electricity arcing a little - then the element will start heating up. This is very frustrating and I'm starting to feel like this could be a dangerous situation.
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SOURCE: My Kenmore glass top range,
SOUNDS LIKE YOU MAY HAVE A WIRE BURNED. CAN YOU USE A MUTIMETER?
SOURCE: kenmore glass top range left front large burner out
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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SOURCE: I have a new ge range. When I turn on the left
mvek,
If you could see through the glass, you'd see "temperature sensors" located near the elements. They're very sensitive little guys, and rightly so! Their job is to detect temps and energize the warning light on the cooktop so users won't get burned.
To answer your question... It appears that there is an issue with the front left sensor (and possibly the right as well). The temp warning lamps should NEVER go off immediately. Please call for warranty repair (1-800-GE-CARES). This is an unsafe condition for you and your Family. The warning indicators are there for a reason and should indicate high temp's as long as high temp's are present.
SG
SOURCE: 0ne of the surface units does not heat. Frigidaire Electric Range
HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know
Thanks
Vic
SOURCE: My question is in regards to my Kenmore electric
It is usually always an infinite switch, Rarely is it a surface element. The fact that the power light does not go on is also a good clue that your switch is bad. If it was a problem with the wiring to the element, your light would be on. When you order the switch, ask for the exact origional replacement. They have some generic switches that have shafts that have to be broken off to the right size for your range. These are not as reliable as the origional which usually has a much stronger shaft. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists.
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