The tabs that seem to have the case locked will not bend in to release clips that must be in there. Really a poor design job.

There are two rods, one has rubber on it. I just replaced the one with rubber on it. Looking at the one rod that was still in place, you can see it mirrors the rod you are going to replace, the placement is just opposite the one that is in there. The rod has a left end that is a square "C" shape, and the right end has a "V" bend right before the end. First position the rod above the seat release cables (if you have them) then position the "V" end near the inside right top of the trunk. Then slide the left "C" end into one of the three slots (I used the bottom slot). Leave it loose so it can rotate with just the tip in the slot. Slide the rod to the right so the "V" is above the spring clip (don't clip it in yet). The right side and the left side of the "V" has to fit into the tabs underneath and inside the top of the trunk. Compare to the left side to see how it fits. Once in place, you can then lower the "V" down to the clip and snap it over the bottom tip of the "V". These steps are easier if the trunk is propped not fully open. I had someone lower the trunk part way while I lay on my back inside the trunk, and I used a small open end wrench to bend the rod slightly to get it to fit into the tabs. The final step is to position the left side of the rod so the torque will hold the lid open. I used a small open end wrench, placed it over the tip in the slot and rotated CW upward until straight part of the rod slid over the hook to hold it in place. This last step had me concerned that I could bend or break the rod, but I went slowly and carefully and was quite happy when it snapped into place and held the lid open.

Open out a paper clip and insert it in the little eject hole on plastic tray cover and push gently until it ejects.

Hello 3134,

I'm assuming that you have the correct mounting sleeve. If not, you need the one that was delivered with the radio or an exact replacement. Also, once the receiver is inserted and locked into the sleeve, you need the appropriate "keys" to release it from the front.

There are some little metal "fingers" (tabs) that need to be gently bent inward until they securely contact the recesses built into the receiver case. The best technique is to push the tabs slightly from the outside and with one hand inside the sleeve, pull on them from the very tip. To insure that the case is centered, bend all of the tabs about an equal amount.

Hope this helps.

yes, easy task. disconnect clutch cable/hydrolic unit connected to fork. remove the cap behind left front wheel. there's a clip holding the piece of steel that pushes the release bearing in. remove the clip. then just push the fork out. everything can only go back in one position, but make some marking if you are uncertain. take the release bearing out and remove any filings you may find inside that area. if the cap goes on poorly then just bend it a little. i took a plastic bag and cut it in the shape of that plate before i pushed it on. this seals it quite fine. hope this helps.

If it is the clips I am thinking of... they have a white push in clip from the side of the connector, pull the white clip out, ( which is really the lock for it) and then the hoses will pull off.. reverse to install.

If the washer fills, but won't spin or drain, you may have a defective lid switch. This is a very common problem and a very common symptom.

Let me guess: The washer fills, agitates, but when it gets to the spin cycle it just stops. On some models the washer will fill and then shut off. Am I explaining your symptoms correctly?

If so, this what you need to do:

Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" noise. The contacts on the switch should close when the lid is shut, allowing the washer timer to run. This is a designed safety feature that prevents the washer from agitating or spinning with the lid open (don't need to lose any fingers). If you don't hear the switch, it may have come loose, or has broken.
Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the tub rim. There will be a slot where the lid strike pushes down on the lid switch. Make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece) is still present on the lid. This can prevent the washer from working as well and make it seem like a huge problem.
On some models the lid switch is located near the left-hand lid hinge under the washer casing. A small rod on the lid hinge activates the switch contacts.

If you determine the need to replace the switch, follow these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Good Luck.

STEPS

• Thoroughly clean the razor cutter area
• Pull off (straight out) cutters and lay aside
• Release spring clips and remove
• Gently pry up and remove rubber boot
• Pry case open starting at cutter end and bending up toward connector end
• Thoroughly clean razor interior area (blow out)
• Pull up motor and remove black oscillator bars
• Pry up the circuit board by releasing the cutter-end catch using a small tool to push it in while prying gently up on the cutter-end of the board and bending up
• Clean the board and turn it over
• Note battery polarity and mark on board if not present already
• Unsolder the battery tabs using unsolder braid. Be careful not to short the electrical circuitry as the batteries are electrically LIVE at this point.
• Remove the old batteries and fully clean off the circuit board solder-pads using unsolder braid.
• Mark the installation date on the new batteries in a place where it will be visible
• Install new batteries, making sure the polarity is correct (cut the tabs to a correct length if they extend too far through the circuit board)
• Solder the battery tabs being careful not to short the electrical circuitry as the batteries are electrically LIVE at this point
• Re-install the circuit board and other parts following the procedure in the reverse order (be sure to put a soft rubber pad over the motor to hold it firmly in place when the upper case half is snapped in place)
• Before installing the metal retaining clips be sure that the rubber boot is fully free and not pinched between the case halves
• Finalize the assembly by reinstalling the cutters and screen

After removing the screws, lift the keypad by releasing the two latches just below the ALT key and WINDOWS key. Two more screws are hidden beneath the keyboard. Hope this helps

you have to take the front of the case off. Every case is different, there may be clips you have to push in to release the front or there may be screws. once the front is off look for the power switch and glue it back into the switch slot. originally it was probably glued in with hot glue.