Machine fills with water to correct level but drum does not turn. Clock doesn't continue to count down, control panel often does not respond when buttons pushed and door remains locked. Powering off t
This relates to F&P front loading washing machine model WH60F60W 1,2 or 3. This one was only 2 years old. I could turn the drum freely by hand and the drive belt was in place correctly. No water leaks. From what I can tell, this seems a common failure on these machines and it looks like the motor and/or control board need to be replaced to fix it. After much investigation I found a simple fix which I will publish in response to this question, Standby...
Not sure how to answer my own question but here's what I did to correct this problem. Hope it's useful for peopel out there and I'm keen to hear if it works for you too. The problem was a dirty commutator on the motor. Best way to access it is to carefully tip the machine on one side. You need to be sure all the water is drained out first and the power is off. The commutator can be seen just inside the motor housing from underneath on the opposite end to where the drive belt pulley is. First step I cleaned the commutator, initially by blowing out the carbon dust using compressed air, rotating the motor by hand to ensure all areas were cleaned. Especially in and around the brush housings. Next I used a non-fluffy cloth moistened with Isopropyl alcohol (mentholated spirits will work too) and cleaned off any grease or oil from the commutator by holding the cloth against the commutator and turning the motor by hand. blow it dry with the compressed air. Do not get it too wet as the liquid will damage the bearings if it get's in them. Next, I used 400 grit glass paper (not black carborundum sandpaper) and lightly polished the commutator by holding the sandpaper gently against the commutator with my finger and rotating the motor by hand. I did this until the copper colour of the commutator was reasonably even all over. I did have to change the paper a couple of times as initially it got very black with dirt off the commutator. After 3 rubs with a new patch of paper each time it was gleaming. Best not to get too carried away with this step as you don't want to wear away the commutator any more then absolutely necessary. Finally I cleaned off any remaining dust using the compressed air and the Isopropyl alcohol moistened cloth. Following this work the machine worked perfectly again. Please feedback if you have a similar problem to this and whether my fix worked for you too. Good luck.Not sure how to answer my own question but here's what I did to correct this problem. Hope it's useful for peopel out there and I'm keen to hear if it works for you too. The problem was a dirty commutator on the motor. Best way to access it is to carefully tip the machine on one side. You need to be sure all the water is drained out first and the power is off. The commutator can be seen just inside the motor housing from underneath on the opposite end to where the drive belt pulley is. First step I cleaned the commutator, initially by blowing out the carbon dust using compressed air, rotating the motor by hand to ensure all areas were cleaned. Especially in and around the brush housings. Next I used a non-fluffy cloth moistened with Isopropyl alcohol (mentholated spirits will work too) and cleaned off any grease or oil from the commutator by holding the cloth against the commutator and turning the motor by hand. blow it dry with the compressed air. Do not get it too wet as the liquid will damage the bearings if it get's in them. Next, I used 400 grit glass paper (not black carborundum sandpaper) and lightly polished the commutator by holding the sandpaper gently against the commutator with my finger and rotating the motor by hand. I did this until the copper colour of the commutator was reasonably even all over. I did have to change the paper a couple of times as initially it got very black with dirt off the commutator. After 3 rubs with a new patch of paper each time it was gleaming. Best not to get too carried away with this step as you don't want to wear away the commutator any more then absolutely necessary. Finally I cleaned off any remaining dust using the compressed air and the Isopropyl alcohol moistened cloth. Following this work the machine worked perfectly again. Please feedback if you have a similar problem to this and whether my fix worked for you too. Good luck.
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If it is leaking from the waste pump area it may be blocked by a small piece of clothing like a sock or something similar! This will also cause it to take too long to complete a cycle.
Remove the rubber hose onto the waste pump and check inside the hose and the pump, make sure the pump spins freely and that nothing is stuck in the hose pipes leading to the pump
Dear Trudz, all you need to do is clean the filter. you can get to it by unscrewing
the front screws at the bottom to remove the bottom panel. Unscrew the
filter but be ready to have something to catch the water overflow.
Coins did it for us. There was not much lint. Hope this helps.
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The Water Inlet Valve on your washing machine is used to fill the tub with cold, warm or hot water for the wash and rinse cycles. The valve is operated by electric solenoids that are controlled by the timer or electronic control board and the water level control/water level selector switch or pressure switch. If your washer continues to fill during a cycle, the water inlet valve could be at fault. To verify that the valve is at fault, unplug the washer when the symptom occurs. If the washer continues to fill, then the water inlet valve is defective. If the washer stops filling, then the problem is related to the electrical circuit that controls the valve. The water level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak or is plugged, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill.
To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level pressure switch may be defective. Inspect the switch for signs of a mechanical defect or debris plugging the hole in the inlet nipple. To test the switch contacts for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to apply the proper amount of air pressure to the air dome tube and then look for the switch to go open circuit at that level. The easiest way to do this is to start the washer and allow it to fill to the normal level and then remove the power cord. Locate the pressure switch and remove the wires from the correct terminals and then perform the continuity test. There should be infinite resistance or an "open circuit" when the water level is correct. If not, then the switch is defectiv
The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board.
This seems to be a fault with the program controller unit or the water level sensor. The program does not advance further after the inlet is filled but operates the drain to exit water. Now the water level sensor must be checked as if this is not working in the stipulated time it will drain out. Also unless the water level sensor contacts on reaching of set level the motor must start.http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1401/how-to-replace-the-bearings-on-a-washing-mach.html
On many washing machines, there is a water level setting switch. This allow you to adjust the level in the machine to converse water. This switch works on air pressure. There is a small hose inside the outer drum at the bottom of the washer. It is connected to the pressure switch (level setting switch). As the washer fills, the weight of the water compresses the air in the hose until the pressure switch activates. There are two possible failure scenarios; they are both fairly easy to repair. First, the hose could be blocked at the drum entry point by lint or debris. This is a somewhat common occurrence. To check this, unplug the washer. Remove the rear cover from the control panel to access the rear of the switches. Find the rubber hose attached to the level switch and remove it. Blow through the hose to clear it. Reattach the hose and retest the machine. If that doesn't work, you may need to replace the water level switch, It is easily remove and replaced once you have accessed the rear of the unit. You can calls Sears service with the model and serial number of the machine and get replacement parts sent directly to your home.
We are talking about a FAV6800A or FAV9800A machine correct? You will need the Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference. If so it sounds like you have a stuck Water Valve or a Pressure Switch malfunction that never signals the Control Board of wash tub water level.And or a possible drain pump/drain line clog. I don't think you have a Drain Line issue because you don't report an ND error code for no drain. Are you up for troubleshooting to DIY the repair? If you unplug the washer does water continue to flow which requires you to shut the water valve to the washer? If water doesn’t flow I would next step you through how to check that the Pressure Switch is signaling the Control Board to turn off the 120VAC to the water inlet solenoids on proper water level fill. Before we go any further let’s hear back from you. I own a FAV6800A and I'm very familiar with troubleshooting and resolving issues with both it and the LCD version the FAV9800A.........Rich
Do you hear the motor spinning loud whirring noise,when drum is not,if so drum belt has come off or snapped,if no noise possible brushes on motor need replacing
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of thishere. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ): ~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit. ~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin. ~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
Maytag Dependable care washer.....Locate a 1/4 inch screw on the side of the agitator, ( about 3/4 of the way down) remove this screw and lift up on the agitator...picture.
Maytag Atlantis, Norge, Performaby Maytag.....Remove the cap and softener dispenser by pulling it off and locate the agitator bolt, remove bolt and lift up on the agitator...picture.
Washer Basics: Filling with water: The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine. No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.
Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of thishere. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well. Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.Testing a water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ): ~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit. ~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged. Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin. ~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.
Kenmore
remove edge decore trims from left and right side front of control panel
remove phillips screws from bottom corners of contol panel
remove knob from water level selector
raise control panel ~1 inch then flip over backwords on pivots
depress lock tab on righ/underside of water level control body where it touches metal mount plate
rotate water level control body 90deg anticolckwise
pull body off
top side of body next to knob shaft is 1/8 hex head bolt
turn clockwise to rais water level
anticlockwise to lower water level
machine can be operated with this part not fitted so can check level. fill, adjust screw, fill will start again, adjust screw, until water level is correct
reinstall in reverse order
Not sure how to answer my own question but here's what I did to correct this problem. Hope it's useful for peopel out there and I'm keen to hear if it works for you too. The problem was a dirty commutator on the motor. Best way to access it is to carefully tip the machine on one side. You need to be sure all the water is drained out first and the power is off. The commutator can be seen just inside the motor housing from underneath on the opposite end to where the drive belt pulley is. First step I cleaned the commutator, initially by blowing out the carbon dust using compressed air, rotating the motor by hand to ensure all areas were cleaned. Especially in and around the brush housings. Next I used a non-fluffy cloth moistened with Isopropyl alcohol (mentholated spirits will work too) and cleaned off any grease or oil from the commutator by holding the cloth against the commutator and turning the motor by hand. blow it dry with the compressed air. Do not get it too wet as the liquid will damage the bearings if it get's in them. Next, I used 400 grit glass paper (not black carborundum sandpaper) and lightly polished the commutator by holding the sandpaper gently against the commutator with my finger and rotating the motor by hand. I did this until the copper colour of the commutator was reasonably even all over. I did have to change the paper a couple of times as initially it got very black with dirt off the commutator. After 3 rubs with a new patch of paper each time it was gleaming. Best not to get too carried away with this step as you don't want to wear away the commutator any more then absolutely necessary. Finally I cleaned off any remaining dust using the compressed air and the Isopropyl alcohol moistened cloth. Following this work the machine worked perfectly again. Please feedback if you have a similar problem to this and whether my fix worked for you too. Good luck.
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