Frigidair Upper Oven is not working, wife cleaned oven, when

usually f24 is related to a stuck or shorted keypad. this would generally be a ui issue, not a self clean lock problem.

It has nothing to do with the tight fit.
It has everything to do with self-cleaning on ovens.
The thermal fuse blows due to extreme temperatures.
Replace the fuse to use the oven.
Use an oven cleaner to clean the oven OR replace more fuses in the future.

You should have a bake and broil button and arrows to adjust temp up and down. Of course a start button should be there. If no off button, then there should be a cancel button to turn it off. The door only locks in self clean mode.

F3-E1 Shorted wire or Temperature Sensor - locate short and correct it or replace Sensor.

go to RepairClinic.com and enter your exact model # for a listing of replacement parts.

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if an element itself had shorted it would not stop the other from working and you could inspect each element and see blistering as evidence.the pop you heard has to be in common with both elements but not the cook top[burners]so thats going to be the wiring in the back of range, or switching,[thermostat,clock timer or oven selector switch,depends on which model you have]you will have to pull range and remove back pannels.you will find an obivous burn't connection.too repair all new connections must be clean and tight,or will burn again.

I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.

First off this oven sucks. Now to fix the problem replace the Fuse assembly with #4451042 an $11.00 part. SHUT OFF THE POWER AT THE BRAKER PANEL FIRST. Then open the lower oven door and remove the two small screws that hold the side trim pieces, slide them up a bit to remove. At the top of the track remove two more small screws that hold the display panel in-place and lift the cover up and away from the oven. The fuse is inside of a clear plastic tube with a female spade connector at each end of it. replace the failed part and put things back the way that they came off. Next time don't by a Whirlpool.

The beeping sound is a fault code. Problem is it isn't listed. In either the top or bottom oven panel there should be a service sheet. The codes are located on this service sheet.

Check to be sure your racks are all slid in to the back. Are you getting a error code?