How much should I thin paint for pneumatc sprayer?

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/388222/Earlex-Ags120.html
there is your link for your spray gun in general every time you use any spray gun it needs to be cleaned run solvent through it to clean it -water for latex, paint thinner for oils remove the tip housing take out the fluid needle clean it every time so it looks like new.
As for thinning stay around 15% in general latex paint does not atomize well so I tend to stay away from latex on metal parts or like a small box and so on however yes we use latex on homes but an airless sprayer is used you basically have a style of "cupgun" thats for detail work... EARLEX AGS120 Operating Instructions Manual

I had an airless sprayer years ago. I couldn't work out how to thin the paint either. The end result was if its too thick and wouldn't spray, I added more thinners. If it sprayed blobs and ran everywhere, I added a bit more paint. Not very professional but I got it down pat after a few errors. I wrote on the paint can I was using, the mix that worked the best.

No- It's best to use testors thinner they sell for there acrylic paint
as a rule of thumb use the the same brand thinners and reducers as the paint your spraying, in this case testors.

You basically have what is called a "cupgun" and there are a few reasons for this and it should be pretty simple to fix I want to stress that anytime you spray the paint no matter what latex-oil needs to be thinned with the compatible solvent water for latex paint thinner for oil/Alkyd by about 10% - 18% that could be the problem if you have latex in your gun but probably it has to do with the "needle seat" in the back of the gun there should be a knob to adjust the needle turn your gun on pull the trigger and turn knob till paint comes out if that wont work you may have debris in your paint that has clogged the stem pour all the paint out clean gun completely pour paint threw a strainer cone or strainer bag and be sure to thin it...

I'm sorry to hear that the container is stuck to your sprayer. Besides a bad thread or cross-threading, there isn't really any reason the container would be stuck - unless paint had been left in the gun long enough to cause it to dry. call 1-800-328-8251 and they'll do our best to assist you with this.

As a note, the Control Spray Double Duty is a thin body material sprayer for things like stains, sealers, varnish etc. Not for thick latex materials, which I suspect is what you're applying to the wall and ceiling. Not that this would cause the container to get stuck on the gun, but I wanted to point out that this gun probably isn't the best for the project you are tackling.

most paint spray guns require the paint to be thinned this may be the cause of the spitting

Hi,
5 % will do.
Regards

strain paint befor using. run water in gun or thinner to see if it will spray it before using and mix paint to the consistancy that spray gun or paint requires for spraying ( fine strainer)

We used paint sprayers every day for years.

Tips come in different sizes. With oil base paints we used the small tip like a 4-11. With latex we used bigger tips, like a 5-17. Really big spray rigs use 5-19. Tip size matters.

Another important thing is to strain the paint. The paint store sells 5-gallon-size strainers. Put the strainer over a 5-gallon bucket. Pour the paint into the bucket. Lift the strainer up, and finally grab it with your hands and squeeze the paint out. Do this in the grass and then wash out the strainer for next time. Put a lid over the paint bucket so the paint stays wet and clean.

We used high pressure sprayers, and then wrapped a filter right over the intake... but the tips would still clog. We had guns with reversible tips ... rotate the tip around, fire the gun, and the clog was gone.

Maybe your tip is getting clogged real fast. When that happens, the gun simply doesn't shoot. The old guns, we had to take them apart every time the tip clogged. I don't know about the tip on your gun.

Your paint sprayer is probably not very high pressure, which means it would clog easily if stuff was in the paint ... and latex is thick and sticky and it gets crusty as it dries.

Suggestion: I would ask Sherwin Williams about the tip. See if they sell parts or tips at the Home Depot or Sherwin Williams.

Also you can clean the gun out with lacquer thinner. See if the lacquer thinner will pass through the gun. I would take it apart and clean everything with a toothbrush, and soak it in lacquer thinner. It might work, but the home-depot-home-owner-spray-equipment is generally not made for more than a few jobs. Especially the wagner-diaphragm-type guns.

Something else you might consider for a cedar-type picket fence. A roller. Sherwin Williams sells thick shaggy roller covers that hold a lot of paint. The little cheap roller covers can't paint a fence or anything else because they're too thin. We almost never sprayed a fence. We'd put masonite along the bottom and then just threw paint up with a roller [slap it on as the customers used to claim] >>> for cedar pickets, thin the paint with water (1 gallon water per 5 of paint) so it flows into the holes and gaps. Roll the fence, and then go back and touch up with a brush or the sprayer. A paint job on a fence always looks better the next day [unlike some things] so sometimes it's best to wait 1 day before doing the brush work.

It should but you might need to thin the paint with water if the paint is very thick. Two or three thin coats are better than one thick coat.