Wont to know which wire goes to which terminal after I have replaced the top grill oven element. Got one pink one orange and 2 black from right to left if I was looking at the back of the oven when th
Top oven replace the grill element 4 terminals and earth terminal in middle
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Yes two red flecked on same terminal and the black flecked on the other side terminal of the element. Bobs your Uncle......HEAT! Make sure they are a tight fit. New spades if required.
I take it you didn't note where they went before? The web is full of handbooks spare part diagrams etc. Various F & P sites as well. Have a dig around for your model. Which you didn't tell us by the way??
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
components.
The model JVM1330 schematic I have on file is a bit confusing.
It shows that the bottom door switch is the primary interlock, and its "C" terminal will have a black wire that goes to the main relay's tab on the control circuit board and a blue wire that goes to the oven lamp.
The "NO" terminal of that switch will have a black wire that goes to the "C" terminal of the middle (monitor) switch and a blue and/or black wire that goes to the internal cooling fan motor and a blue wire that goes to the stirrer motor in the ceiling of the oven.
The top switch is the door sense switch, and it will have thin wires. They may be pink, orange, etc, but they will be thin wires.
With 4 terminals, it sounds like a double grill element. But it could also be a single grill element with a second oven element. If the spade connecters are loose they need to be tightened first. Get a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the terminals until the gap reduces so when it slides on it will be tight. Do you know what wires go where? If so reconnect them. If you don't do the following; As you look at the element terminals they should run horizontally. Look at the element inside the grill compartment. From left to right, the no. 1 and no. 4 terminals should be the same element and the no. 2 and no. 3 terminals should be the other element. If this is correct put the 2 neutral wires, in any order, on terminals 1 and 2 and the active terminals on 3 and 4. This should work. You just have to check the correct element comes on when you operate the grill/oven controls.
I can only speak for the 720. If you want a circuit/wiring diagram for this one, then I need an email address. I will then register this on my BT Digital Vault and you can the download the whole manual.
Looking at the diagrams, the neon for the main oven has white and black wires.
The white wire from the main oven neon goes onto the same connector on the thermostat block as the white wire to the oven element. The black wire from the neon goes to a common terminal on the top oven neon, which then goes onto P6 of the top oven switch (still black wire).
If you need any more info, then let me know.
You need to check the heating element for continuity and the thermistor for continuity. Use an ohmmeter or multimeter to check.The element should not be any reading over 24 ohms for a 220-250V supply and not over 12 ohms for a 110Vac supply. A good tip is to take digital photos of the job before starting on removing and testing wiring etc so that you can refer back to it if you have to replace any items or forget which wires attach to any particular terminal etc. To test and replace the element:
Turning off the mains power to the oven.
Remove the lower back panel. Fan assisted ovens will have a coiled 2 or 3 turn element around the outside of the fan.
Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element if one is fitted.
Check the element resistance reading on the main oven heating element and not the grill element.
The thermistor or fusible link is located on top of the oven cavity if fitted and has two wires attached to it - most likely to be red and black or both white wires.
Remove the earthing wire to the main oven heating element screw terminal.
Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your oven. Do this from inside the oven cavity itself.
Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it.
Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post.
Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required.
Reconnect the power cables to the main oven heating element.
Reconnect the power cables to the grill element if one is fitted.
Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly.
Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s).
Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the oven, and if appropriate the grill, functions correctly.
A tripped breaker or blown fuse on an electric oven or cook-top, combined with an element that has stopped working, is usually a sign of a shorted, then blown (if the fuse or breaker no longer fail) element.
If you know how to use an ohmeter, you can pull the element, disconnect the wires from each end, then measure the resistance between each end of the element, and each element to the outer sheath.
A good element has just a few ohms of resistance between the wire connection points, and infinite resistance from the wire connection points to the outer sheath. Any readings other than that means the element is bad and need's to be replaced.
There should only be two wires that go to the element. It won't matter which wire goes on which terminal. Turn power off to unit before replacing the element. In some cases when the element burns out and breaks in have it will send a surge back to the oven control board and it will need to be replaced also. You will know once the element is replaced if it doesn't heat up.
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