I only have 120 to my heating elements on my water

• There should be a temperature fuse look like in much case on the picture and this fuse element is in serial with the power from switch to the heating-element sometimes its hidden in an electrical heat shrink sleeve.or anywhere but is build in its to find before one of the 2 leads before the heating element, the thermostat is only to switch on an max temperature but the safety fuse is made , when the thermostat become defect it has a safety max temp before it becomes defect if it the temperature rises above to fire dangerous if the thermostat dont stop. some times max 120 degrees and more or less to choose the max temp is on the fuse to read.
• By replace this fuse its importand to place a pliers the flat nose on the lead and right near the fuse element on the lead-site that is having to be soldering so the heat by soldering cannot get in the fuse because it would direct defekt by soldering heat

Push circuit breaker fully off and then fully ON
Test for 240 volt across top twp screws on upper thermostat.
If tank was not full of water when breaker was turned on, then upper element burned out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

Yes both elements will test for 120 volt to ground at all times... but it takes 240 volt to heat element
http://waterheatertimer.org/Element-tests-for-120-Volts.html

Gene


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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Test elements,and if elements are good, replace both thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

2) Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240Volts.
If this test shows 240V, then no more voltage testing is needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html#electric

3) Add comment Feb 2013 and say where you are so far

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If your top element is bad the the lower element will never turn on be cause the top element completes the 240 circuit. It is like a resister in a circuit. Make sure top element measures out at 13 ohms.

Test for 240V across top two screws on upper element
Test elements.
Replace thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Tank that has two elements is rated 240Volt.
The element will test for live 120Volt to ground at all times, but not until the circuit is completed will the element turn on and test 240Volt.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The Emmerson W152 is ordinary 1-year warranty 120Volt electric storage water heater, except with bronze tank. The bronze tank will not rust, and therefore tank does not have anode rod, and tank has 5 year warranty.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Emmerson-point-of-use-water-heater.pdf
Actions to take:
1) Check circuit breaker.
2) Emmerson plugs into 120V outlet. See if outlet works for other 120Volt light or can opener.
3) Turn off power and do following:
4) Open cover on water heater, and press in reset button.
If reset will not reset, then replace thermostat with ordinary generic thermostat from hardware store.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
5) If reset button is not tripped, test element.
6) Emmerson has 1500 watt element, and correct ohm reading at 120 volts should be around 9.6ohms
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
7) This element is 7" long, and is also generic, and should be available at hardware, or plumbing supply, or Google-search 'Emerson appliance water heater element.'

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Replace the element it is shorted out.

The controls of electric water heaters are designed so that at no time are both the top and bottom heating elements energized. Nearly all electric water heaters of this capacity in the US & Canada (other places, too) operate on 240 Volts.

When the water in the tank is below the set point of the thermostat (in your case - 120 degrees), the top heating element is expected to be on - (unless there is an issue with the top thermostat or limit switch). The top most control is the "high temperature limit". It is identified by the reset button on it. Make sure this isn't tripped by depressing the button. If it clicks - it was tripped and should start to make hot water at this point. If not tripped, you should check for the presence of 240 Volts between the heating element terminal screws. Do not measure from ground to a terminal screw and believe 120 Volts is "good". To make heat, you need 240 Volts - not 120 Volts measured across the terminals - not to ground. The amount of heat created running at 120 Volts is only 1/4 of what it will do at the correct voltage.

If you don't measure 240 Volts on the top element, check the bottom element in the same manner described for the top element.

If unable to measure 240 volts on any element, either there is a problem with the power source (blown fuse or circuit breaker), high temp limit switch, or thermostat(s).

If 240 Volts is present on either heating element, and water is not warm / hot in 30 minutes or so, a defective heating element is suspect. You can change controls without draining a tank, but replacing elements will require draining the tank first. Do not power the water heater without first filling it.

You can read a very detailed "how to" article about checking water heaters here.

I hope this helps - and good luck!

Check the elements, if you have access to a meter to check them. If they are getting power to elements and you have no hot water.
The elements are not working correctly. I had some elements check out ok till the thermostat's turned on and the elements didn't heat.
Sounds like the elements are bad.

I do not know what heat control valve you are referring to on an electric water heater. On an electric water heater it has two heating elements in most cases. One at the top and one on the bottom. One of these is more than likely defective. Turn the power to the water heater off at the service panel or at a disconnect switch. Now take the covers off both heating elements. Check each one with a ohm meter to see if you have continuity. If your meter reads nothing that heating element is bad and needs replacing. On each heating element is a thermostat to set the temperature. Set the upper element to 120 degrees and the lower element to 130 degrees.