Why does my transducer not get a return when its deeper than 150 mts?how much amps does it need to operate in deep water?

Happens on a lot of units if you are going at high speed and the depth finder isn't getting a return echo because of water splash or not being over the return ping when it comes bk... a lot of time you can adjust the transducer to shoot slightly in front of the neutral position or adjust the whole unit down so it's deeper in the water. You'll have to play a bit.

The transducer MUST be in contact with the water for it to operate properly. Check and make sure (if it is a thru-hull) that the ducer isn't in the air when you're planing. I've read that wiping the transducer with Dawn dish detergent speeds up the "wetting" of the transducer and makes for a better contact with the water.

Hope this helps.
-Steve

It it understandable that different resolution would give you a better picture bit, loosing reception??? Judging from what you have tried I suspect the cable is damaged some place. If you have extra cable... try not to have the excess cable rolled up in a tight roll. This may cause interference. Make sure the transducer is aimed as flat as possible.

Be sure you have your unit set in "max mode" and run it on 200khz frequency see if this makes any difference. Also be sure your unit is wired directly to your battery not through a switch or fuse panel as this can rob your unit of voltage, impacting the strength of your sonar signal.

Might help to tell us what kind of boat - deep V hull 22 ft.? bass boat with shallow V hull? Some need the transducer closer to the centerline of the vessel while others do better more outboard, Naturally they need to be flush with the hull no matter where they are located. Depending on the transducer, you could also try properly mounting it inside the vessel near the transom. Good new is you are getting good info from it. Cheers Pete

I don't understand everything being asked, so add a comment any time.

Problem1 is excessive electric bill.
Suspect is new 120Volt Taco recirculation pump.
Look at motor nameplate for amps and watts and HP. Taco pump is usually robust 1/3 HP which is 252 watts or same as running four 60 watt light bulbs.
If pump runs 18 hours per day x 252 watts = 4536 watts or 4.5 Kilowatts per day
Buy a kill-o-watt meter that plugs into outlet, and plug Taco pump into the meter for 48 hours.
This will give you total watts used for that time period.
1000 watts = 1 kilowatt.
Electric bill is probably 12 to 20 cents per kilowatt.
So if Taco uses 4.5 kilowatts per day, that is $.54 to $.90 per day multiplied by 30 days.
So cost is $15 to $30 per month.

Problem2 is Taco runs too long.
Taco operates either by thermostat or by timer. You choose which mode by using slide switch that is usually located under the timer dial. Set switch to TIMER to use timer, and ON to use thermostat, and off to turn TACO off.
If Taco is set for thermostatic operation, the Taco might be defective. Or there could be crossover problem at single handled faucet.
Another problem could be air in the water line: install air vent.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-set-timers.html

For a 120V 1-phase unit:
15 amps; 1.8 kilowatts

For a 288/ 240V, 1-phase unit:
16.4amps/ 18.8amps; 3.4/ 4.5 kilowatts

You can download owner's manual at http://www.wellsbloomfield.com for your reference.

Regards.

Im not familiar with your particular unit but you should be using a low frequency transducer for water over 500'; something like a 50 kHz transducer or a dual frequency transducer like a 50/200kHz for detail with the high freq. but increased depth range on the lower frequency. As far as setting it to 250 ft, you should be able to use the range feature and adjust the maximum to 250'. typically the factory default is automatic so it will caonstantly adjust the range based on the maximum current depth.

The left side should be the "low power" mode otherwise known as "LP". The low power mode lets you run longer but the power output is less which may cause you to "pick up" less activity under your transducer. The "BL" stands for "bottom lock" which allows you to keep a steady view of the bottom while your transducer is in motion. That feature is usually used during open water situtations: choppy water. The "AZ" feature is the "auto zoom". This allows you to zoom into the last few feet on the bottom. If i remember correctly its the last 6' feet. If not then its 12'. The zoom feature helps with fish and lure sepperation especially in deer water since your display adjusts as you dial into deeper water. The dials on your unit correspond to your depth settings. The white scale is used mainly for shallow water and the yellow scale is used for deep water. For example: your dial is set at X1 on white. Take the white scale on your screen and multiply that by 1 and you have your depth. If your dial is set on X2 white then multiply your scale by 2. Same goes for the yellow. I know its been almost 2 years since the question was asked but i hope that someone who has the same question can find the answer here.

Your transducer needs to be adjusted so the return signal can be picked up. Some of these have to be super tuned to receive the signal. Also the transducer may be moving ever so slightly when the boat is traveling at speed. You may have some water turbulence interference all contibute to signal return.