At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Usually, if you are experiencing improper stitching and/or broken threads, it's most often a mis-threading problem. Proper threading is EXTREMELY important to successful serging.
Remove all the thread from the machine. Use colored threads that match the machine diagrams.
ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading!
Thread each thread in the ORDER specified. Usually, Upper looper first, then Lower looper, then needles.
When threading each, grasp the thread below the thread tree and below the tension dial, and give it a tug to seat the thread completely. Sometimes it will pop when it seats. If the stitching has loose looping threads, most likely the thread is not seated completely.
Verify the thread path is correct for each thread before going on to the next thread.
The best tension setting is the midway point--usually marked on the dial. Then the tensions are tweaked following testing. The colored threads will help you determine which thread is misbehaving.
YOUR TENSION CONTROL HAS TO BE PLACED BACK TOGETHER SO THE THREAD CAN GO BETWEEN THE TWO SAUCER SHAPED METAL BRACKETS. WHEN THE PRESSER FOOT IS DOWN THE TENSION SHOULD BE APPLIED TO THE THREAD. IF THE PRESSER FOOT IS UP THE TENSION SHOULD ALLOW THE THREAD TO FLOW WITHOUT DIFFICULTY WHEN YOU PULL ON IT. THAT IS WHY THE MACHINE SHOULD BE THREADED WHILE THE PRESSER FOOT IS UP. THEN YOU CAN BE MORE ABLE TO PICK UP WHEN THERE ARE HANG UPS. TAKE YOUR TIME. IT IS AN ITEM THAT CAN BE VERY FRUSTRATING!
Poppie, are you still stuck? I have a vintage Empisal and did the same thing - but I finally figured out how to put the tension back together. Check out my blog to see if you have a similar machine and I may be able to help. makingmakesmylife.blogspot.co.nz kind regards KC
Serger may have a threading diagram inside the front looper cover which should show the various thread eyelets that you need to pull the threads through and they may be numbered one to 4 also to indicate order of threading. The diagram is usually colour coded to match the tension dial colours and serger usually has colour dots on the different thread eyes to help you follow the thread path for each thread.
This video is great and hopefully will help you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zszJYQe2aws&feature=related, it has lay in tensions while yours has dials so just pull the thread around the dial right to left and then across to the next thread eye and this should pull the thread into tension. Dials are usually all set to 5 for normal stitch formation.
On my serger you thread up in the following order: top looper (second from right dial), bottom looper (right hand dial), then right needle, left needle; this video shows all threading going from right to left however, so if you have a numbered diagram inside your thread cover, then certainly use that order. But always loopers before needles.
Raise the thread aerial first before you start, put the cones onto the thread spools and if you have any cone holders (little plastic triangles) put them on the spools first to steady the cones. Now for each thread, take the thread tail from the cone, up through the aerial thread guide, then follow the coloured dots and take this down the front of the serger putting it into each coloured thread guide, through looper then up under the raised pressure foot. Repeat for next looper, then the needles.
Pull all 4 threads out under the foot to the left, lower foot, then chain off a little to start and test sew on fabric, adjusting the tensions if you need to.
Other adjustments are stitch length (usually a knob on right beside the flywheel numbered 1-4, blade position, a dial either left or right of the blade, press on the blade to release the tension on it before you try and move it. And differential feed, this is also a knob numbered 0.5 to 2 usually. If you can't see this on the right by flywheel then open up fabric plate (left cover) and look in there for these two adjustments.
I would suggest you start with tensions on 5, and stitch length of 2-3, and test sew on scraps of the fabric you wish to overlock. You can then either move the blade to cut wider or narrower to suit and adjust the two looper tensions if you need to close up the thread on the cut edge. There is no black and white settings as each fabric will behave a little differently, generally you adjust the looper tensions a bit until the stitch is encasing the cut edge and you have a seam width that suits the weight of the fabric.
Differential feed leave on zero unless you find you need it when a loose weave fabric goes wavy, then turn it down to close up the feeding. Sergers have two feed dogs, one before and after the foot and turning differential knob changes the ratio of feed between the two so either stretches the fabric, or pushes it together as it goes through the stitching sequence. So by turning differential feed up to 1.5 or 2 you are stretching the fabric and you can do a narrow rolled hem edge that is all fluted (lettuce edging).
I hope this helps you out a bit, if you are completely new to this machine and have never used a serger then I always suggest taking a class from a local dealer, it is really worth the money and time as they are quite different to sewing machines but once mastered, really change the dynamics of sewing and techniques are much more like commerical production with flat construction etc.
Have you changed the needles in your serger before this happened?
If so, check again that the left needle is fully up into its housing and that the needle is in the right way with the scarf (cut out) at the back. Have you got a ball point needle in one side and not the other perhaps. If you are seaming knits, then put in 2 ball point needles, if for wovens, then two sharp needles.
Now check tension on left needle, is the number on the dial the same as the right needle. Pull on the left thread just after the tension disc then the same on the right thread, does the tension feel the same on both?
Is the thread catching somwhere on the aerial, caught on the cone holder, or at the back somewhere or as it comes through the tension discs? Take thread out of the discs, turn dial to zero and give between the discs a good clean with the selvage edge of a clean piece of cotton waste fabric, saw it back and forwards to clean out the discs. Now thread the machine again again. I'm assuming this is a 4 thread serger, so thread order would be top looper, bottom looper, then right needle, left needle, turn tension to zero on all threads, pull all four threads out under the foot, loower the pressure foot, turn tension back to five on all (or whatever your normal setting is) then chain off a little and test sew.
I disassembled the top thread tension controller consisting of 12-13 pieces, including 2 springs. Since they all fell out on the table I spent about 2 hours learning the proper stacking order on the central shaft. With a combination of reasoning based on each unique piece shape and trial and error I put it back together, adjusted top and bottom tensions according to the instruction booklet for the machine, tested some stitching, made final adjustments and all worked well. I don't know what was changed in the process but it worked. Don
Please, tell me, is the main spintle, still on the machine, or it came off with the rest of the parts?
If you can put the tension parts, the one next to the other in front of the machine, and upload a photo for me, it will be very easy to explain how to put them back.
Hi , the two washer are assemble the curve should be back each other , first put a piece of thin tosser like a small nail put spacer can struck the tosser ,put washer back to back cone retainer next spring next cover with number indicating tensioner of thread next the knob.Put the tread between two cuve for enough tension.
×