the probe. If I did I could verify that it is or is not in water.

When the oven is running in steam mode the cavity temp - Blodgett BX14E Oven

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1answer

I have F2 error on Ge profile electric oven and sometimes after a preheat it shuts off

Generally speaking, F2 fault code indicates the oven exceeded 590 degrees with the door unlocked. This could be caused by a stuck relay on the oven control board or it could be caused by high resistance in the oven temperature sensor probe.

If the element will shut off then the likely failure is the oven temperature sensor probe. The sensor is located inside the oven cavity. It will be protruding from the rear panel in the upper left or upper right corner. The sensor can be removed and replaced from inside the oven cavity

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Oct 30, 2018 • GE Ovens

tip

Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).

Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
Test and replace the door switch.

Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
Replace control board
F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
Replace temp. probe
F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control
F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary
F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel
F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.

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on Jan 31, 2010 • Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

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1answer

GE oven JKP26GOP2BG wont heat

either the temp sensor probe in the oven cavity it open/shorted or way off scale and telling the control board the units up to the temp set point,theres a way to test these with an ohm-meter for resistance at certain temperature but i dont have the chart for that test,it may be inside the unit if you can locate it

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Dec 02, 2012 • Ovens

3helpful

2answers

Kitchen Aid Oven - Superba Selectra- receive

Hi,

Here is what Kitchen Aid says about F4:

F4 Meat probe shorted
1. Disconnect meat probe and measure probe resistance (78kω at 60° F [15.6° C],
37kω at 90° F [32.2° C]).
2. If resistance is not valid replace probe.
3. Insert probe and check for a firm connection between probe and jack (in oven cavity).
4. Check connection between jack and harness (in rear of oven).

It sounds like the probe jack may be bad or the wiring between the jack and the control board above.

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May 10, 2010 • KitchenAid Architect Series KEMC308KSS...

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1answer

I have a SMEG SE398X-5 wall oven that does not heat up. The light inside & the controls comes on but will not heat up so there is power to the controls & lights but not to the element & fan.

Hi.

If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.

A faulty temperature probe will keep circuit to the heating elements open, affecting both broiling and baking function.

The temperature sensor can be tested removing it from the oven cavity and reading Ohms on the sensor wires. If the circuit is open at room, then the temperature probe must be replaced.

Regards.

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Mar 05, 2010 • Ovens

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1answer

Oven doesn't go on.

Hi.

If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.

If the part that is not heating is only one element, then you may need to replace the element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.
In this case, selecting only baking or only broiling (depending on what element is faulty), the oven will work normally.

If the oven is a gas oven, then you have no element. In that case if the oven burners are working, replace the temperature sensor.

If replacing the temperature sensor does not help, then replace the oven electronic control.

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Mar 04, 2010 • GE Ovens

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1answer

I cannot get the oven to come on after I used the self cleaning.

Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.
Oven temp problems: Temperature is too low possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor.
Temperature is too high in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire.
These oven probe clips often rust off and the oven temp probe hangs down, or touches the oven wall giving false temperature readings to the oven control.

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Apr 01, 2009 • Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

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1answer

GE CONVECTION OVEN. WE GET DISPLAY MESSAGE F2

Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

Otherwise you'd look like this...

Ready? OK!

All you need is;
1.) Phillips screwdriver
2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
6.) Flashlight

Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

Now we're ready for surgery.

Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

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Mar 17, 2009 • GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

4helpful

1answer

GE JKP26G Electric Oven Doesn't Maintain Temperature

Diagnosis= failed thermister (temp probe inside the oven cavity) The part number is WB23X5340 and it lists for ~$72.00 at your local appliance parts place.

Bad news is that you have to pull the oven out of the wall to do this repair.

Good news is that it's not difficult to do.

TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BEFORE YOU PROCEED! Otherwise you'd look like this...

Ready? OK!

All you need is;
1.) Phillips screwdriver
2.) 1/4" socket/nutdriver
3.) Ratchet if you don't have a nut driver
4.) 36 quart Igloo ice cooler (like what you'd take to the lake or the beach)
5.) Sturdy wire (smaller than a coat hanger, preferably)
6.) Flashlight

Did I mention TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX?

Now we're ready for surgery.

Open the oven door and look where the oven meets the wood. You'll see a couple of screws there... remove them. Now the oven is ready to pull.
Place your Igloo cooler under the oven. Slowly pull the oven from the cavity until you have it out and sitting on the cooler. (don't sweat it... the oven is light. maybe 75 pounds or so.)

Now that you have it out, open the oven door and remove the oven racks. Look inside (may need a flashlight) and locate the temp probe, there are 2 screws holding it in place. Remove those 2 screws and set them inside the oven cavity, you'll need them soon.

Now go to the back of the oven (slide it if necessary) and remove the back panel. (*Here's a tip... some of these GE units? All you have to do is remove one screw to access the temp probe, so look carefully... don't go nuts here. Sometimes the whole panel/panels DON'T have to come off)

You'll see the temp probe wires... they are 2 small white thermally insulated wires coming from the cavity to the wire harness in the back. Disconnect this harness and pull the old probe out from the front of the oven cavity.

OK... now to get the new probe installed... See that plastic thing on the end of the new probe? It's a pain to get through the cavity where you'll be plugging it into. It's best to have help. but it can be done alone (I've never had help, it's just harder)

Take the sturdy wire (from the tools list) and make a small hook at the end of it. Poke it through the hole that the old probe was stuck through. Now hook your new probe into the hook. Now go to the rear of the oven and gently (did I say gently?) pull it through to the back of the oven.

Now that you have it through, connect it to the harness. Now all you have to do is reinstall the rear panel/s and the oven. No biggy. Just take care not to scratch your wood trim... line it up before lifting and installing.

All in all about an hour's worth of work. I know it sounds like alot more but I could have done this in less time than it took me to type it.

Congrat's on your first major oven fix! Let us know how it turned out.

Read full answer

Mar 14, 2009 • GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

1helpful

1answer

F10 and beebing.....

The F10 indicates that the electronic oven control board senses a runaway temperature condition in the oven through the oven sensor circuit.
This can be caused by a faulty oven temperature sensor probe or a failed electronic control board.
Oven temperature is detected by the control board as it monitors the resistance through the oven temperature sensor circuit.
You could have a failed oven temperature sensor, a wiring harness failure, an open thermal switch or a failed electronic oven control board that would cause this problem.
The first component to check would normally be the oven temperature sensor probe.
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can shut off the breaker for the range and remove the screws that mount this sensor to the back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the wire harness into the oven cavity until you get to the wire harness disconnect plug.
You should have enough slack to pull it this far into the oven.
Disconnect the sensor but do not let the wire harness retract back through the back wall of the oven or it will be hard to reconnect.
Measure the resistance of the oven temperature sensor with your volt/ohm meter. At room temperature, the resistance should measure around 1100 ohms.
The resistance chart is shown in the image below.

If the resistance is above 2200 ohms at room temperature, then the sensor probe is causing the F10 error code and will need to be replaced.

You can order a new sensor probe from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number for the sensor is 316217002.

If the resistance is normal, then one of the other causes mentioned above is producing your F10 code.
You would need to access the electronic oven control board (Timer) in the console and check the resistance at the sensor circuit connection to the control board as the next step in troubleshooting this problem.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbqdsfkrfqtswfqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krdbrtqkgxkrbbqbrwb/1/1303472/5961857/image37801img-or.jpg

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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Nov 15, 2008 • Kenmore 47834 / 47832 / 47839 Electric...

Related Topics:

When the oven is running in steam mode the cavity temp overshoots. The temp indicator never gets above 210. It appears the temp probe is somehow immersed in the water. I do not know the location of

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Attachments: Added items

Related Questions:

I have F2 error on Ge profile electric oven and sometimes after a preheat it shuts off

Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).

GE oven JKP26GOP2BG wont heat

Kitchen Aid Oven - Superba Selectra- receive

I have a SMEG SE398X-5 wall oven that does not heat up. The light inside & the controls comes on but will not heat up so there is power to the controls & lights but not to the element & fan.

Oven doesn't go on.

I cannot get the oven to come on after I used the self cleaning.

GE CONVECTION OVEN. WE GET DISPLAY MESSAGE F2

GE JKP26G Electric Oven Doesn't Maintain Temperature

F10 and beebing.....

Not finding what you are looking for?

BX14E Oven

I have F2 error on Ge profile electric oven and sometimes after a preheat it shuts off

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Cindy Wells

ADMIN Andrew

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Related Topics:

When the oven is running in steam mode the cavity temp overshoots. The temp indicator never gets above 210. It appears the temp probe is somehow immersed in the water. I do not know the location of

Add Your Answer

Attachments: Added items

Related Questions:

I have F2 error on Ge profile electric oven and sometimes after a preheat it shuts off

Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).

GE oven JKP26GOP2BG wont heat

Kitchen Aid Oven - Superba Selectra- receive

I have a SMEG SE398X-5 wall oven that does not heat up. The light inside & the controls comes on but will not heat up so there is power to the controls & lights but not to the element & fan.

Oven doesn't go on.

I cannot get the oven to come on after I used the self cleaning.

GE CONVECTION OVEN. WE GET DISPLAY MESSAGE F2

GE JKP26G Electric Oven Doesn't Maintain Temperature

F10 and beebing.....

Not finding what you are looking for?

BX14E Oven

I have F2 error on Ge profile electric oven and sometimes after a preheat it shuts off

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