Hobart 24 in. LXIC-5 Built-in Dishwasher Logo
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
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Lx30h hobart dw. booster will not turn on. element good,hi-limit is good, changed temp probe, still no power to contactor

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paultech8226

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  • Posted on Aug 08, 2009
paultech8226
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Joined: Aug 03, 2009
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The booster heat control circuit is controlled by the relay board. Visually check for loose or burnt relay contacts...
You will see the booster LED light when it calls for heat. Some newer machines have a second high limit on the right hand side of the booster tank.
It may be your control board is configured for low temp with no booster. When you power up, the display should say LX30H. If not
Pull open the upper drawer, place a magnet over the door interlock switch.

CAUTION, 220 volt power is present. be carefull what you touch.

on control board, short J5-1 and J5-2, then power up. You are in factory setup. press select on the control board to see each option on the front panel., press up arrow on control board to step up through options for each step. when done, press the off button on front panel. remove short and start up normally. With the magnet in place, AND THE DOOR CLOSED, run the machine and observe the relay board status lights.
If you want to adjust the temp set points, with the machine off, press and hold the hidden key behind the front panel logo, and press select on the control board.. Or on power up, hold the wask key..Same to adjust options as above. Press off to exit.

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Hobart LXIH !The booster is not getting to temperature!
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May 28, 2014 • Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher
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Hobart lx30h built in dishwasher when you turn it on to wash it shows p2 then it says fill but it want fill up with water also do you run cold water line to washer or hot water
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Dec 02, 2009 • Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher
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P1 error code on LX30 Hobart
This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.

This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.

Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.

TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
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Sep 04, 2009 • Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher
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Jul 03, 2009 • Hobart AM14C-155 Dishwasher
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Booster heater not heating
If elements exploded, you replace them, and you don't have heat, you need a meter.

But the obvious things you can do -- check the high limit (little red button on lower front panel, behind a plate)

Otherwise you'll need a meter to check continuity for each thermostat (control/high limit), the coil on the contactor, the probe for low water cut-off, and voltage inputs and outputs to the low water cut-off board. Also there is the transformer to check.

The only way to test the thermostats without a meter is to jumper a wire across the terminals. This has some real personal dangers. Turn off the breaker, CREATE a jumper and attach it. Do not attempt to hand hold a jumper wire. WAY TOO DANGEROUS.

If you need help with any particular test, and you have a meter, I can help you out. Good luck - Mike
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Jun 12, 2008 • Hobart 42 in. AM14C-154 Free-standing...
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