Repair the power supply the fuse is blown

If the set is totally dead the most likely cause is a bad power supply...You can check the main power fuse and see if its blown and replace it with the same type but there is about a 90% chance it will blow again...Not sure how tech savvy you are but if your comfortable working on the hot side of the power supply you can check the FET transistors and associated circuitry as at least one may be shorted. Another option that may make more sense is to replace the power supply, several are available for sale on eBay for under 30 bucks, be sure to match the number of your power supply to the one you order as more than one supply can be used in most tv models. Be cautious around the close to 400 VDC on the power supply!!

Unless you have electronics repair experience, you will need to replace the power supply. If you do have some repair experience, I would check for any shorted diodes, bridge rectifier, switching mosfet, or a cap on the primary side. Replacing the fuse will not solve your problem.

you must check for blown fuse at the power supply board, bur before you replaced with new one you must check the FET transistor and bridge type diode if shorted which cause of blown fuse.

you must check first the fuse in the power supply which getting blown.if the fuse blown with darkened black color that was mean there are other component parts in the power supply or in the board which get bad. if you know how to test component, check shorted bridge type diode as will as regulator ic and FET transistor in the power supply board.

if their is no power indicator at all that was mean the power supply failure. look for blown fuse, if the fuse is blown with darkened color you need to check first other component that get shorted pin before you replaced the fuse like zener diode and fet transistor. if you don't have an idea on how it will be trouble shot just send it to the service center near you.

The interior map lamps are powered buy the battery saver relay ( non serviceable relay ) Which is powered by Fuse #25 ( cab fuse panel ).
This is for the engine compartment and illuminated vanity lamps, as well as the map lights.

The FET ( Field-Effect Transistor ) shows the fuse #9 also on it. ( marked interior lighting ), which power the interior lamps ( door / switch ).

Could be a few things if both those fuses are OK.

1. The map / interior lamp combos are usually dual element bulbs, which means if the interior lamps ( door or dimer switch on headlamp panel ) are OK, it could still be a burn out bulb.

2. The FET is having an issue from a dead short ( blown bulb or dead short to ground ). Until the short is correct, the FET will not turn back on.

Start with checking Fuse #9 ( marked as Fuse #8 in the diagram, but that shows headlamp ), which is to the interior lamps, and drives 1 side of the FET.

you have blown the actual filters that make the sound. a amp is basically a filter with the same filters on both channels on each side of the inside of the amp - channel 1 and channel 2, that pop was in the heat sinks of the amp usually. if you have replaced the fuse in this amp and you get no on light, the internal amp is in need of repair

Check the power supply transformer primary driver transistor and the associated components (some diodes and capacitors, resistors, an optocoupler maybe) and the rectifier diodes (or a bridge) and capacitors at the transformer secondary, what you are looking for is a short circuit, however, the short may as well be in another section of the circuit board (a shorted component may sometimes have signs of damage caused by heat, but this is not a rule).

Hope you can find out what it is...

regards

Triarcuate

I think this might be bad/swollen capacitors, or something odd in the +5VDC circuits of the power supply, but I am posting all of the things I have found so far with these TVs.

Here are few possible solutions:

If you have no red light and you have a Megmeet MLT386 power supply, check these parts:

1) Swollen caps on the secondary circuit (may cause the red light blink problem).
2) Blown fuse F1 (5A/250V) this is caused by a shorted FET at QA1 (20N60), you may also find that SMT cap CX23 is burned up (.001uf) which is in parallel with diode DA2 which may be damaged/shorted, replace these components.

If the power LED goes from red to green when powered up but no picture, then it might be lost +24VDC from the power supply:

3)Check fuse F2 (3.15A/250V, I put a 5A in), if it is blown, replace FET at QA2A (9N50C), replace QA2 as well (9N50C). Check SMT resistors at R233,R234,R235,R236 (.47 ohm). If open, replace with .1 ohm 1W or 2W resistor (easier to source). Also replace SMT transistor QF1 (2X4 or 2N4401 NPN transistor). And replace diodes at DS2 and DS1 (HER207), DS2 was shorted, DS1 was ok but I replaced it anyway.

I dont know as much about the Megmeet MLT169A, but it has similar problems and similar components.

4) I had to replace all of the capacitors in the secondary circuit (there are six in a 3x3 row marked EC9 (1000uf35V),EC10(1000uf35V),EC14(470uf35V) and EC18,EC19,EC20 (all 1000uf35V).