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Posted on Sep 24, 2014

Is there a recall for a burned out trace on the on the control board PCB at the heater relay? I'm told it is a common problem.

The washer stopped DEAD in the midst of a wash cycle. Upon inspection, a trace on the PCB that brings in the AC line to the heater relay and beyond was burned clean off around the relay pin with signs of arcing around it. The trace seems awfully narrow to be handling heat coil level current. This looks like an undersized trace problem to me. There was a pinhole in one of the smaller chips as well. indicating it's destruction.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 7 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 07, 2008

SOURCE: Smelled like burnt board

reove screws holding on outer panel and unplug all the leads ( they are all coded so you cannot cross them ) open up plastic cover on module to reveal circuit boeard

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2008

SOURCE: Bosch SHU43C

My SHU43C is just over 3 years old. I had a similar problem recently. First, there were a few floods. Then, the Bosch only drained non-stop. Even when I used the Cancel Drain buttons the drain pump would run without stopping. When I tried to run one of the cleaning cycles, no water entered the machine. Corrective: I removed the base plate, and saw that the red plastic floatation device was in the up position. Using a flashlight and a wooden spoon, I lightly toggled the red float stem down. I pushed regular clean cycle and kept toggling with the red float stem until the rinse water started to enter the machine (turning the red stem seems to also actuate a step in the program). Now the dishwasher runs normally. Voila!

Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: When the washer gets to 1 in the cycle, it doesn't stop washing.

try running the test cycle or running delicate economy in that cycle it gets up to 150 degrees in the very first cycle let it run 15 or 20 min see if the water is screaming hot it is not and Luke warm it is not heating it is most likely a control board heaters very rarely go out

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 21, 2010

SOURCE: SHU5315UC control panel

My bosch dishwasher finished a load and noticed for a period of time it was making a humming noise,i opened the door and it contnued until i pressed off.With the power button on the noise continues with door open or closed,maybe its the pump the continues working.It shouldn't activate any cycle until you close the door.What could be the problem.

Anonymous

  • 2605 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2010

SOURCE: completed solder proceedue about 2 months ago.

Hello

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post, the solder may not have been sufficient to hold, or as you alluded to, the relay itself has failed now.

The best thing to do at this point may be to remove the control, clean up the point of soldering really well and retry thr repair to see what results.

If this is indeed the SHU43 series dishwasher, there are two different diagnostics possible, one of them is presented at this link from my profile...

http://www.fixya.com/support/t6347232-shu_4322_dishwasher_fills_water

...you`d have to provide the complete model number to identify which one applies to your machine.

The other opton I`ll leave with you is the possibility I can email a guide which includes the tests and other service tips.

Contact me at [email protected] if interested and provide your FixYa username so I can identify who you are.

I`ll watch for your reply, good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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Runs when door is closed,stops when open!Checked the three door switches;all good.The mw is 5 years old so anyone have suggestions as i would be thanking U in advance

It is possible that a relay on the control board has stuck in the closed position. You can try tapping the relays on the main control board and this sometimes breaks them free. It still may be one of the door switches but I would suspect the control board or possibly a stuck start pad on the touch panel.
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There is usually a heat override switch or setting in the washing machine. Check this. If it is not giving power to the heater, means that the control relay or SSR is not functioning. Check this by tracing the wires back to the board. You would be able to locate the proper relay by tracing it backwards.
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It's probably a weak or failed component on the board. It's a common issue on those machines and the Whirlpool Duets. It's usually burned at the motor relay or heater relay.
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The only thing which will solve an F01 error code is a new machine control board. These is a catastrophic control board failure. Nothing can correct it. The part number you require is W10205977.
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Installed Dometic 3312020.000 comfort control center II CCC2. A/C works fine. I have activated the FURN with dip switch and reset. When asking for furnace heat, the impedance between two blue wires changes...

I'm not familiar with the model as there are many but here are some general tips to help you figure it out. We techs. use these same checks. A Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with hard contacts has small relays easily identifiable when seen. They are rectangular, about 1/4 inch high, about 3/4 inch long and about 1/2 inch wide soldered directly to the board. An Integrated Circuit Relay (ICR) looks exactly the same as all the other ICs on the board. The 2 blue wires can be easily traced by following them to the solder traces on the bottom of the board. One will go to the Common trace which is larger in spots than all the others and normally runs around the outside of board to access all the other components and ICs. The common lead of the power source will be soldered to this trace. The other blue line will go to the relay. If it is an ICR it will have a part number on its top, easily visible. NTE Electronics can I.D. its specs. but they are designed to handle the load. Hope this helps.
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I have a 609 Intuitive washer that was dead. Controller fuse was blown, pump control FETs shorted out. Another smaller chip in pump control circuitry obviously dead (small crater in the top). Corrosion...

i just love these machines they are not the best but there great when they work correctly. ok yes the most common problem with the f/p washers is they blow there power control boards the reason why is this there is no power short protection in the pcb have you ever unplugged the washer lifted the lid and turned by hand the barrel and seen that the lights on the control light up it allows the capstan drive motor to reverse its poer back to the board when the washer spins too fast it imt/s too much power back to the pcb. your completly ok to fit the control board it wont burn out 32 ohms on the pump is great give it a little spray of wd-40 anti corosive oil spray now the impulse reader on the side of the barrel small circuit board that must be clean and free of water marks and dust rust e.t.c then the drive break will respond faster stopping pcb burn out do this every 6 months


merry christmas

sonic boom electronics australia

please take the time to rank this advice

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F 07 fault on my aquarius washer/dryer

This is fault F07 - heater relay stuck. The most common problem for this is the pressure switch sticking. - unplug appliance from mains, remove top, disconnect pressure switch hose from switch, tap switch on tor weight a few times, refit hose, reassemble and test. If this does not work check wiring to heater and meter.
If your fault is heater relay cannot be activated then it's most likely the main pcb that's faulty.
You can check the connections at the heater, they have been known to break internally at the connectors. Also check the plug at the main pcb.
Be careful when working on these machines as the some of the pcb's can hold a charge for a long time
The components which cause this error can be any of the following, heater, ntc, module and pressure switch.
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probably not, believe it or not. If they actually designed a trace to fail under load, then they could not predict when it may happen. Yes, things get more load-some over long use and demand more current, but the pcb trace was probably not intentionally too small. Let's say it was designed too small. So at first startup it carries 9.5 Amps. The next factory unit draws 9.8 amps. the next unit, wait a minute, draws 10 amps and blew the trace before it got shipped. I think this under-design was a simple oversight, but one that should have demanded a product recall from Zanussi that would send a tech to every unit to install a pcb with a beefier trace. Email Zanussi and complain! Just curious...can you measure how wide is this pcb trace? It should be about 1/4 inch wide.
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