How To wire a cutler-hammer A/C Disconnect Box 60amp-240V Non- Fusible

There should be information on the relay itself. Boettchers in Beloit handle Cutler Hammer (Eaton) products. You may be able to pull the relay and take it to them for an exact replacement.

only if your main wires (ie. line/feeder wires) are larger than a #2 awg wire size. #2 awg size wire is code and the right size wire for 100 amps. So, if you have larger wire coming into your service (eg. #1 THHN or larger) - then you can. Otherwise, you'll have to UP the wire size for the appropriate amperage. I hope this gives you some idea! Good Luck!

You connect the two hot wires from your power source to the two lugs in the. On the other side of the disconnect you connect the two hot wires to the A/C unit to the other two lugs. You tie the neutral wires (white) together and insulate them. You ground the ground wire to the box and run a ground wire to the AC unit.

So, you should have a red, black white and ground wire on the supply side to your disconnect. The red and black are your hots from your main box to the disconnect. They go on one side of the disconnect. The units red and black go ont other side. You connect the neutrals and ground it and you are in business.

Don't guess, because you are fooling with 220 Volts AC which will knock you silly.

There seem to be several questions mingled in with those 2 questions.

1) Amps can go either way

2) Breakers trip when heat exceeds certain level. Heat is caused by amps.

3) You want to add a subpanel in garage.
I do not know the code in your area for installing a subpanel.
Your plan will work by connecting 6 gauge wire to main breaker, and new 60 amp breaker will protect wires between main box and subpanel.
Remember, wires going into main breaker cannot be turned off without pulling meter.
Some areas require license to pull meter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

4) To work around license and meter-pull, simply replace a 240V breaker in main panel with your new 60 amp breaker.
Then move breakers around to match new set-up.
New subpanel can accommodate two new 240V breakers and one new 120 Breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

5) 6 gauge wire is correct for 60 amp breaker.

6) I'm not sure what you mean by the box rails?

7) Do you need more amperage on main service?
This means adding a larger service panel with 150 Watt or 200 Watt main breaker.
Some areas require service upgrade when remodeling or adding circuits.

8) How to figure total amp draw at your house.
Add up total watts being used.
For example you have 1/2 Hp motor
754 watts per Hp
1/2 Hp = 377Watts
Volts x Amps = Watts
Amps = Watts divided by Volts.
377 Watts divided by 240Volts = 1.57 amps (plus a bit more amperage when motor starts)
40 watt light bulb divided by 120Volts = .33 amps
Double oven has label located inside door that shows upper and lower wattage.
Dishwasher, dryer, big screen TV, satellite receiver all have labels that show wattage.
Water heater has label that shows wattage of each element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Add a comment for more help

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T1906-Intermatic-timer.html

T1906 is 240V timer with 240V clock motor
There are 4 terminals: NO NC COM Clock
NO terminal (normally open) turns ON when the timer turns on
NC terminal (normally closed) is ON at all times except when timer turns on.

You want your pump connected to the NO terminal so it turns ON when timer turns on.

How to wire:
240V has 2 Hots from breaker box > these connect to COM and Clock terminals (either color wire to either terminal)
Your pump has 2 wires > these wires connect to NO and Clock terminals (either color wire to either terminal)
The bare copper wires connect together and connect to green screw.

If your wires from breaker and pump are reversed, the manual override will work, but the timer clock will not rotate dial. If this is the case, then switch NO and COM wires.

If you use a white wire to carry a 120 Volt line it would have to be taped with either black or red tape both at the breaker box and your fuseable disconnect so the solution is to use the black and the red wire into your curcut breaker, the white and the bare ground both tie into the grounding post at the circut box and at the fuseable cut off, Yes the fuses are neccisary per code.. to eliminate a short or fault from traveling all the way back to the breaker box.. often times found inside the building the fusible pullout is attached to. check your local codes and regulations for more specific details.

It will be a hazard to some else who opens it someday thinking the hot wires are at the top. Best answer is to check you counties electrical code. My answer is no I wouldn't hook incoming wires to bottom lugs.

NO you cannot.
. Artical 240.40of the NEC2008 code states Disconnecting Means for fuses. Cartridge fuses in circuits of any voltage where accessible to other than qualified persons, and all fuses in circuits over 150 volts to ground, shall be provided iwth a disconnectiongs means on their supply side so that each circuit containing fuses can be independently disconnected from the source of power.The top is marked line. This is where you connect the incoming power source. Then the switch then the fuses then the outgoing or load connections. thats why there is enough space in the disconnect to allow the wires to loop in from the bottom of the disconnect to the top line side lugs.

The two wires coming from the breaker box go to the terminals marked "LINE". The two wires going to your AC unit go to the terminals marked "LOAD".

Hope you find this to be very helpful. :-)

THERE IS ONLY THE WIRES GOING IN AND THE WIRE GOING OUT THAT IS HOW THIS WORKS