Would not dry the clothes and time on the cycle does not go down, when it does it stop at 10 minutes and cycle keep going for the longest until I manually shut the power off.
Sounds like you need to replace the timer one the dryer not the element but to make sure I would do a little trouble shooting to rule out the element or heating coil turn on dryer cycle like normal for about 30 seconds then open the door to feel for heat if you do feel heat its your cycle/timer knob if you don't feel heat then it's the coil or element witch are the same also first always check your lint trap and ducts going outside the dryer make sure you have proper airflow through ducts vents. clogged vents ducts ect. Cause over heating of element coil causing a safety fuse to shut down heating coil/element but will not stop cycle also moisture censors detect moisture causing cycle to continue on hope this helps.
SOURCE: Dryer runs & heats but shuts off after 3-10 minutes
the motor overload can caouse that problem in that case new motor is needed if the dryer turn right back on after it turns off the even heat control board in panel bad if it humms are no noise after turn off and you have to let cool down the motor is the problem
SOURCE: dryer heating element cycles on and off every minute or two
It is normal for the dryer heating circuits to cycle on and off. The heating element is not supposed to stay on continuously. What usually causes excessive dry times, and rapid cycling of the heating element is poor ventilation. The following link explains:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385301-thorough_dryer_advice
Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation and how to determine whether or not you have a clog. You could STILL have a malfunctioning hi-limit thermostat or operating thermostat, but I suggest you double the simple things first. It doesn't make since to replace parts if it may be a simple matter of general upkeep. Cleaning the lint trap in not enough to keep the dryer ducting clean. If you've never had your ducting inspected or cleaned, now may be a good time.
Perform the simple test of disconnecting the dryer vent hose and try drying a load. If the dryer performs better, you may have a clog in the vent line where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. If the drying results are still the same, inspect the internal air blower to make sure it is not clogged.
NOTE: It is also recommended that you use semi-rigid metal ducting. It is crush resistant, resists kinking & heat, and offers protection against rodent infestation.
I hope this advice leads you in the right direction. Let me know what you discover. If it is not a matter of ventilation, then read the steps on how to determine the whether or not the heating circuits are operating correctly. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 Dryer clothes not dry after cycle
it sounds like a clog in vent.if yours vents up thru roof you may need to have a chimney sweep come out and sweep vent.check and make sure the vent hose is net kinked or full of lint.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite dryer heats but does not dry
Make sure that your vent tube is not kinked or crushed behind the dryer and it all this is ok then you need to change your cycling thermostat. is it gas or electric
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer Model Number 110.85872400
Before assuming you have a bad heating element, read through the following link:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat
Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. More commonly the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The component acts as a fuse and must be replaced if bad. In addition, if the TCO is determined to be defective, it is recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Both these components work in conjunction with the heating element and are mounted on the heater box. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. These two components are often sold as a kit. If you fail to replace both of them you can experience premature failure of the component you do replace.
Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If you haven't checked or cleaned the exhaust ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so . A dryer left in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures in the heating circuit. Not to mention this creates a fire hazard.
If you read through the link and determine that you have a bad heating element, follow these steps to remove:
1. Unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door.
2. Remove the lint screen from the dryer door.
3. Remove the blower fan housing vent cover.
4. Disconnect and label the component wiring on the heater box.
5. Loosen the mounting screw on the heater box front support.
6. The entire heater box, with element inside, should slide out of the dryer.
7. There should be a couple of mounting screws on the component side of the heater box that you need to remove and the entire element slides out.
If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
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