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Not to be a rude or mean but perhaps you have taken on a job that is over you level of experience with a watercraft or that requires special tools or shop equipment. My knowledge as an auto mechanic tells me that the trouble may be due to items that are pressed together hydraulically. My best "guess" is to buy a service manual for the watercraft, follow the tear down for the shaft and bearings in question.
I posted this request for information for my neighbor who is a machinist and very experienced machanically. He just needs some assistance as he does not have access to a computer.I posted this request for information for my neighbor who is a machinist and very experienced machanically. He just needs some assistance as he does not have access to a computer.
Well I wish him luck. I do not know much about those specifically but I am sure there is a service procedure manual either in print or online if he cannot figure out how to get it all apart.Well I wish him luck. I do not know much about those specifically but I am sure there is a service procedure manual either in print or online if he cannot figure out how to get it all apart.
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To replace pinon bearing you need to pull wheels and the brake drums off next pull cover off the back of the rear end (make sure you have a drain pan under rear end) next turn dive shaft till you see a small bolt remove bolt pull center pin out push axle in pull c clips out pull axels out remove four bolts holding ring and spider gears remove gears assembly next remove drive shaft remove bolt from pinon push pinon in remove seal and bearing
If replacing only the seal, remove the seal using a suitable seal removal tool.
If replacing the seal and bearing on the 8.6 inch axle, install the slide hammer and adapter behind the bearing and pull out the bearing and seal together.
If replacing the rear axle shaft seal and the bearing on the 9.75 inch axle, install the J 29712 or equivalent bearing puller into the axle housing behind the axle bearing.
Remove the axle shaft seal and the bearing by tightening the nut on the J 29712 bearing puller.
Use a slide hammer, bearing puller and adapter to remove the old axle bearing
To Install:
Install the axle shaft bearing using a suitable size driver. Drive the bearing into the housing until the tool bottoms against the tube.
Lubricate the seal lip and install the seal with a suitable seal driver. Make sure the seal is fully seated in the axle tube.
Hello unless there something unusual about the front wheel. bearing removal is not difficult once you have the wheel off remove the seals on both sides. remove any internal snap rings or retaining rings. now the correct way to remove the bearings is with a bearing remover its a shaft with an expandable tip and a weighted slide. when the end is inserted into the center race of the wheel bearing then the shaft is turned to expand the expandable end locking it in place then you use the weighted slide on the shaft to drive it out. replacing the bearings easiest way is ti use a press not everyone has one of those a bearing driver or and old socket can be used to drive in the new bearings just make sure it is smaller than the inside diameter of the bearing hole and just enough to make contact with the outer bearing race do not force or make contact with the center race. Hope this helps you out
this is a pressed unit. honestly youre better off either purchasing the whole drive line or go buy the bearing new and take it to a transmission or drive line shop. they wont charge that much to remove and replace the bearing and all youll have to do is r and r.
Did you change the carrier bearing. It will be cheap compared to a transmission and new drive shaft. Got 1 in my shop right now. Customer did not listen. Check that carrier bearing Cost $1350vs $50
On vehicles covered by this information that are equipped with a two-piece rear driveshaft assembly, the center support bearing may be removed for replacement. To be sure if your driveshaft may be serviced, check with your local parts supplier or dealer for parts availability information.
Matchmark and remove the rear driveshaft assembly. For details, please refer to the procedure located earlier in this section.
Remove the strap retaining the rubber cushion from the bearing support.
Pull the support bracket from the rubber cushion and the cushion from the bearing.
Press the bearing assembly from the halfshaft.
To install:
Assemble the center support bearing to the driveshaft:
If removed, install the inner deflector onto the front shaft half and ***** punch the deflector at 2 opposite points to make sure it is tight on the shaft.
Fill the space between the inner dust shield and bearing with lithium soap grease.
Start the bearing and slinger assembly straight onto the shaft journal. Support the shaft and using a length of pipe over the splined end of the shaft, press the bearing and inner slinger against the shoulder of the front shaft half.
Install the bearing retainer, the rubber cushion onto bearing, the bracket onto the cushion and the retaining strap.
Align and install the driveshaft assembly to the vehicle.
I see that the solution given is for an axle shaft and not the drive shaft that was asked about. I am 99% sure that if you take out the bolts the other end will slide out of the t-case. Then the u-joint can be replaced as normally done.
first remove the differential half shafts and drive shaft, remove rear cap, loose the bolts on each end bearing,remove the differential assy. then replace bearings
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel. .
Remove the brake rotor.
Disengage the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel drive shaft in order to protect the wheel drive shaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with the hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing at this time.
Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the steering knuckle by removing the three bolts coming in from the back side of the knuckle.
Of course you may have to use a hammer to loosen the bearing from the knuckle.
1. Remove the acorn nut, hex nut, and washer that hold the "planetary" agitator section on the transmission shaft. 2. Remove the trim ring (if any) around the same. 3. The agitator section should now be able to be worked free. 4. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the agitator shaft. (Some models have a pair of hex nuts here; if so, remove those.) 5. Pry the gear up and off the shaft. Remove the square key from the shaft keyway at the same time. 6. Tap gently on the top of the agitator shaft to drive it out from the bearings and grease seal. 7. Recommend removing and replacing the top bearing at this time; it's inexpensive to replace, if you're in this deep. 8. Use a suitable diameter piece of round steel stock to drive out the lower bearing and oil seal. I don't recommend using the agitator shaft. 9. Clean thoroughly, insert a new bottom bearing and oil seal, drive in place with a rubber mallet. 10. Replace agitator shaft through oil seal and bearing, tap gently into place. 11. Fill cavity with approved lubricant. I use USP-grade mineral oil, as it is food-safe and provides satisfactory lubricity. 11. Install top bearing, tap gently into place. 12. Reverse steps 5-1 to reassemble.
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