FFEC3205LW replace switch

Take off the switch nobs and center grate, then carefuly lift the glass up/ start on one edge first. Have a towel or pillow to rest the glass once off it is around 250$ to replace glass!

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have to remove the unit from the counter and access from the back of the unit

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response, thanks and good luck

Hello there
I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:

In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop. To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.



3. Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.



4. Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity. Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms, depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either terminal, the burner is defective.



5. If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to the wiring diagram

Oven Thermostat Testing:

An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.

1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!



2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
   1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
   2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components.
   3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
   4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
   5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
   
   
   
3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.

   Adjusting the thermostat:
   

4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.



5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.

This is usually caused by one of the infinite switches. They are easy to check and replace. You will need to remove the cook top and disassemble to access the switch assemblys. Here is a link that will walk you thru testing the switches http://appliancehelponline.com/infiniteswitchvideo.html You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your model.

you need a new on/off/speed switch from jen-air find it here: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/sharedservices/dealerlocator/dealer_search.jsp?siteCd=JA_EN_US it is easy to replace. make sure the breaker is off before you remove the switch

Your problem is a stuck igniter switch or a bad spark module.
Each surface valve has its own igniter switch. Turn off the gas. Remove the panel covering the valves to access the switches.
With the gas OFF,turn on all surface switches. Move the dial past the LITE setting. The switches should still be making the sparking sound.
Remove one wire at a time from each surface switch.
When the sparking stops,that last switch with the wire removed will be the bad switch. The one that needs replacing.
If you do not find a bad switch the main spark control module will have to be replaced.
Part # 71003385 Igniter switch.
Part # 71002783 Spark module.
Occasionally a igniter switch becomes dislodged from the correct position and can be re-seated. Look at the position of all switches before you do any test. Make sure they are all seated.

Each gas valve has its' own ignitor spark switch.
One or more of your switches has shorted out.
Remove the panel to access the switches. Remove the wires from one at a time until the sparking spots. That will be the bad switch.

Yes, the entire unit must be lifted out - it is probably secured with screws underneath. Then you can remove the screws on the underside of the glass to access the switch. Hope this helps!

Sounds like the switch electric sending unit needs to be Ither cleaned and dry good or replced. It's not hard at all, They are located under the knob switches, you will have to remove the knobs and the top cover, they look like a small square box wit a hole in the middle with two wires on the sides, just unplug the wires and lift the box off the switch rod. cleane them and dry them good and put them back.......that should do it.....Good Luck
Eddie Rentas
Tupper LAke NY