Whirlpool duet not heating, replaced thermistor

The main causes of the dryer heating elements to turn off are caused by poor airflow or a bad temperature turn off switch and a power surge.Dryer heating elements quit working when they become very hot,

If the element was replaced, and now verified that it is not presently shorted to ground, your next diagnostic would be to to test the timer connections per the schematic lookiong for a fused contact that energizes the heater, while set to air fluff setting.

It sounds like this is a Whirlpool Duet or a Kenmore Elite Dryer due to the error code E1 being available only on this models. The problem here is an open thermistor as what error code E1 means. It's either the thermistor is exhibits an extremely high resistance or the wire harness connecting it to the control board is broken or cut open. Click on the link below for the detailed procedure in accessing the thermistor.

Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite Electric Dryers Not Starting

Measure the resistance of the thermistor and refer the table below. Normal thermistor resistance is around 10000 ohms (10K) at room temperature.




Replace the thermistor if the resistance is significantly higher (or lower) than what it is supposed to be based on the resistance table above. Check the wire harness connecting it to the control board, if the resistance turns out good, and make sure the connectors are good and the wires are intact. Replace the wire harness if necessary. Consider replacing the control board if both the thermistor and the wire harness turn out good. The link below might enlighten you further on the troubleshooting of the thermistor.

Thermistor Troubleshooting on Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite Dryers

to the touch the clothing should not be very hot, i see where ya have cleaned the vents(good job!!)
on occasion i have found where a fabric softner sheet has clung to the face of the lint filter housing,look at the plastic housing around the area of where the lint filter goes and see if something is stuck to it restricting the air flow into the filter housing

The problem is the control thermistor being detected open by the electronic control. It's either the wire harness connecting the thermistor and electronic control is broken or the connection is loose or the thermistor is indeed open. Measure the resistance of the thermistor then refer to the temperature and resistance table for the normal thermistor resistance values. Click on the link below for the detailed troubleshooting procedure.

Troubleshooting Error Code E1 on Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers

This website may help Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

The electronic control detected the thermistor is open. It's either the wire harness connecting the thermistor and electronic control is broken or the connection is loose or the thermistor is indeed open. Measure the resistance of the thermistor then if it reads open or the harness of broken. Refer to the detailed troubleshooting of this error code in the link provided below.

Troubleshooting of Error Code E1 on Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers

Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps

Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps

You have this listed under "Front Load Washer" and don't explain which type of of dryer you have (Gas or Electric). I'm assuming this is an ELECTRIC dryer, since you mentioned a thermistor. The following link will explain how to troubleshoot your dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The symptoms of a dryer no heat problem are, the dryer drum will still spin, the blower fan runs, and all indicators function, but the dryer does no heat. If this is the problem you are encountering, then the link I provided for you should help you find your cause.

The first step to troubleshooting this problem is to check the voltage at the wall receptacle across the two hot leads (the two large slots in the receptacle - each leg to neutral reads 110-120VAC). A reading across the two hot leads should yield 220-224 VAC. If the voltage is incorrect, this can cause the heating circuits to fail, but allow everything else to work. I have seen where one leg of the 220VAC circuit is tripped or not working at all and causes the wall receptacle to read 1/2 the normal voltage that is required. This could be a problem with the circuit breaker panel or wiring in the wall receptacle. The heating circuits require 220VAC to operate, while the controls and drive motor only use 110-120VAC. If the voltage is correct at the wall, check the voltage at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord attaches. If the voltage is correct at the terminal block, the problem is in the heating circuits. If the voltage is not correct at the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

NOTE: Please ensure you UNPLUG the dryer when replacing any internal components. Dangerous voltages are still present with the unit turned off.

Now...what controls the heating circuit in a Whirlpool manufactured dryer is the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), the Hi-Limit Thermostat and the Heating Element. I'm assuming you replaced the TCO(?). If you did, it is recommended that you replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of components you may have already replaced.

The link I provided explains all this. Please read through the information I provided and let me know if you have questions. If you require further assistance, please let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you resolve your problem.