Little plastic parts behind the six big nuts on brass end of the pump have melted.

most shops charge 149.95 including the part but if you want to do this yourself here goes. remove the wheel on the side your replacing. remove the center big nut. (need impact or reall big breaker bar) unbolt the lower ball joint get a big prybar and insert it to where you can push down on the lower control arm. unbolt the tie rod end and smack it a few times to make it dislodge. smack the side of the ball joint with your big hammer a couple times then push down on the lower control arm till the ball joint separates from its stud. then tap on the end of the cv axle and pull out on the wheel assembly till the axle releases from the wheel assembly. using a smaller prybar get on the ground and get behind the big part of the axle near the transmission as you pull you need to pry between the transmission and the axle to get it to pop loose. put a drain pan under the transmission to catch the little bit of fluid that will come out. reinstall in reverse order. good luck

The black tip nozzle puts the right amount of pressure on the line to draw up the cleaning solution.

If your power washer is like mine, the cleaning fluid adapter is a 'T shaped' brass valve that fits in-line along the hose line.
There is a brass stem sticking out.
The stem has a tiny ball valve on the end.
A plastic hose fits onto the stem, and the plastic hose goes into bucket of cleaner.
As water travels through power washer hose, it creates suction that draws cleaning solution through the tiny ball valve.

The brass ball valve gets clogged or wears out ... we used to replace the stem every so often.
Sherwin Williams used to carry a replacement stem ... but they may not sell little parts any more.
It's been 14 years since I used the suction device.
I got fed up with the thing not working.

We changed over to a pump-up hand-held sprayer for applying cleaning chemical.
The pump-up puts more chemical on the spots where you need it.
So one guy puts chemical on, and second guy comes behind with power washer ... no more replacement parts, and one tip stays in the gun so we never lose a tip.
A pump-up sprayer is half the cost of replacing the T-shaped valve.
Duh-simple is the business model.

usually if its leaking and you have the same replacement then just reuse the compression nut and furrow and it doesn't hurt to use a little pipe dope or just unscrew the packing nut and change out the the valve stem

Sounds like it has a bad o-ring. you can take it apart and replace the o ring for under a dollar. just make sure you look at how it goes back together when you take it apart they are very simple. just make sure the carefully take the right side cover off with the left side of the rifle laying on a table, everything should stay assembled this way so you can look at it. the part you are looking for is in the large chamber that the pump goes into. from the back (the side opposite the pump) remove the spring and the metal piece behind it, then use something the shove the big brass part out of the chamber and the o ring is on the big brass part . take the old o ring to a hardware store to get another one.

should be two rubber hoses that connect onto two brass tubes coming out of the firewall inside of the engine compartment near the passenger side of the vehicle. Follow from front part of the engine to where they connect onto the brass tubes. Those should be your heater hoses.

This is a plastic impeller on a brass hub. If the impeller is loose it is probally cracked or overheated and melted, ether way you will have to break the impeller off of the hub then you will need to break hub loose from shaft. You can do this by putting pump in a vise and putting a pair of vice grips on hub and giveing them a sharp hit in a counter clockwise direction. you will need to replace the seal and impeller and should check to be sure than you can get these parts before you start.

I am in the process of doing this now to my 96 Lincoln Towncar. Today I removed the door panel. Hidden scews that attach the door panel are at end end of the door pull strap. The plastic end pieces are removable and each have a screw underneath securing the top of the door panel.
Hidden behind the water shield material at the top of the door are two nuts that retain the top connection of the window lift. I am going to razor cut a straight line through the water shield material to insert a socket to remove the two nuts and then put duck tape over the razor cuts rather that pull the water shield material from the door frame.
Started drilling on the left rivet to detach window from the regulator and quit for the evening.
Have three rivets to drill to detach the pwoer window motor from the door frame.
Two more rivets at the bottom of the door to drill out to detach the lower window regulator from the door frame.
Do not know how I am going to remove the right rivet of the bracket that hold the window yet. Looks like a would need a long drill bit to reach through the door frame to make contact with the rivet.
The replacement rivets that came with my window regulator are to big for my rivet tool. Could end up using nuts and bolts. Sure would make it easier for the next window regulator replacement.
Hope I have some good luck using the drill tomorrow. kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd

replacing pump,,theres two screws on either side of console..phillps head remove end console caps if equipted,,with hand..if earlier mobel there right behind console..flip console back dont remove..disconnect lid switch,,the small harness that has the brown and gray ,,wires with a green groun,,always unplug unit first...remove 2 brass clips on booth ends,,now just pull the cabnit toward you and leave on side,,look straight down at your feet theres your pump,,the plastic part with the 2 hose leading out it..pry punp clips up with a smal screw driver,,twist a little and there off,,remove drain hose,,and tub to pump hose ..reverse to put together

Hi ejj509,

Both my 97 Passat and my wife's 99 Passat were throwing the same OBD codes you listed.

Both VW's had the same problem. There is no "quick" solution for the problem. I can tell you what I found, what I had to do and how I repaired both vehicles so they no longer throw this OBD error code.

I removed the black plastivc AIR pump and found that three of the six aluminum rivets which hold the AIR pump impeller housing together had rotted off so the case was leaking air. I went to a hardware store with one of the aluminum rivets I had removed from the AIR pump and bought six brass machine screws and brass nuts. I gouged the aluminum rivets out and replaced them with the brass machine screws.

After I had replaced the AIR pump in the VW, I cleared the codes and ran the diagnostics again.
It still threw the same codes!!!

Next, I removed the plastic top engine cover from the VW engine (VR6) and located the many air solenoids hidden under the cover. I went to a local NAPA shop and purchased an eight foot length of their smallest gauge neoprene gas line (1/8 inch ID).

I carefully removed each piece of rotted VW vacuum line from the air solenoids and replaced each rotted section with lengths of the new neoprene gas line. I had to follow out each of the old vacuum lines and replace them because they were badly deteriorated. This took about five hours to accomplish.

I replaced the plastic engine cover and connected up my cable from my laptop to the VW's computer port, cleared all of the codes and ran a new scan. This time the scan was clear! Woo Hoo! Apparently, the problem was both the leaking AIR pump and faulty, deteriorated (cheap) Volkswagen vacuum lines.

It was well worth the effort. My driveway has now become a bonafied VW repair shoppe.

this sounds like the heater you are looking at. try tightening the 10mm nut a bit. if that doesn't work. loosen the nut, pull heater out and use some sealant. why do you think you need to replace bearings and seals?