What is an EOC - Frigidaire Ovens

The "F10" error code caused by the runaway temperature.
The first thing I would check is the resistance across the oven temperature probe (aka oven temperature sensor) terminals at the EOC (electronic oven control) plug.
It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.
If the resistance at the EOC plug is wrong, then measure the oven temperature probe resistance at the probe plug.
If it's wrong - replace the oven temperature probe. It's better to hardwire it, using a high temperature ceramic wire nuts.
If the readings at the EOC and at the oven temperature probe plug are different - check the wire harness between the oven temperature probe and the EOC.
If there is nothing wrong with the oven temperature probe resistance - replace the EOC.

hello there"
The "F10" error code caused by the runaway temperature.

The first thing I would check is the resistance across the oven temperature probe (aka oven temperature sensor) terminals at the EOC (electronic oven control) plug.

It suppose to be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.

If the resistance at the EOC plug is wrong, then measure the oven temperature probe resistance at the probe plug.

If it's wrong - replace the oven temperature probe. It's better to hardwire it, using a high temperature ceramic wire nuts.

If the readings at the EOC and at the oven temperature probe plug are different - check the wire harness between the oven temperature probe and the EOC.

If there is nothing wrong with the oven temperature probe resistance - replace the EOC.

- The part number for the oven temperature probe is AP3704441

- The part number for the EOC is AP3776874

- The part number for the EOC overlay is AP3778486


Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4431-f10-error-code.html#ixzz156CO7RjB

Hello Dan. You most likely need a new EOC (oven control) / clock. These are often expensive but fairly easy to change. If you do decide to try to replace it BE SURE that it is unplugged or the breaker is off. Usually if you pull the range out from the wall (be careful of scratching your floors, put cardboard under the front legs) you can access the EOC from the back of the control panel. There should be a cover over the back of the control with a lot of screws, remove as many as you need to have access to the EOC. It should be evident how to remove the EOC once you see it, often just 4 screws. Have the new one on hand and just be careful when removing wires and make a little diagram if you need to help you remember where they go on the new unit. One thing to consider once you get the cost of the EOC/Clock take a look at the cost of a new range. Sometimes these parts are half the cost of a new range. Hope this helps, best regards.

Hi,
F3 -The oven temperature sensor is open

Check for open wire connection between EOC (Electronic Oven Control - Clock) and the oven temperature sensor. Replace sensor if no wiring problem.

F1- EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure

Replace EOC (Electronic Oven Control)


Thank You

If the burners and oven light are working, then you have power coming in. It's most likely a defective EOC. If you haven't tried turning off the circuit breaker for 5-10 mins to reset any glitch associated with a surge or spike, do so. If this doesn't reset the control, the EOC will need to be replaced.

your problem is with the EOC (Electronic oven control) or touch pad if it is seperate from the control...if the touch pad is seperate...unplug range - access the control panel - remove the wiring/tape wire from touchpad to EOC...plug range back in...leave over night...if f7 code comes back it's the EOC...if the error code clears it's the touchpad...replace the part with the problem...if touchpad built into EOC replace the EOC. Hope this helps...if you have any other questions please feel free to comment again.

The "F10" error code caused by the runaway temperature.

The first thing I would check is the resistance across the oven temperature probe (oven temperature sensor) terminals at the EOC (electronic oven control) plug.

It will be about 1100 Ohms at the room temperature.

If the resistance at the EOC plug is wrong, then measure the oven temperature probe resistance at the probe plug.

If it's wrong - replace the oven temperature probe. It's better to hardwire it, using a high temperature ceramic wire nuts.

If the readings at the EOC and at the oven temperature probe plug are different - check the wire harness between the oven temperature probe and the EOC.

If there is nothing wrong with the oven temperature probe resistance - replace the EOC.


Please rate and have a great day:)

Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

F11  is a keypad short. This was actually a simple fix when I got into it. Take off the top rear panel. You will need a drill driver or #2 square drive. Once inside: the EOC is held in by 4 screws. Remove those and pull out the EOC. 

My diagnosis on the problem is this: The keypad connection to the EOC is the thin plastic serial connector on the top of the unit, looping to the back. What I figure is that this plastic must have the  tendency to warp under the influence of heat and  thus reduces the good connection to the serial input on the EOC. There is a black plastic connection protector on the input side of the serial connector at the EOC. Gently pull this off and pull the serial connector out and give it a good cleaning. Place the serial connector back in the receiver and replace the connection protector back on. ( tricky.  if you have ever built a model or soldered anything you will be fine.)

The serial connection will need some pressure on it  to make a good connection if it is warped. My solution to this was to run a plastic cable tie thru the small holes in the top of the EOC. tighten the cable tie over the serial connector, pressing it to the top of the EOC. This gives it a good pressure on the input pins in the connection input. 

Now plug the unit back in. You should have full function of the keypad. If not, it may be another issue with the keypad or EOC.  This was a solution I happened to stumble on and it may not work for everyone but giving it a shot means you might save 170 dollars in parts not including the labor. 

No code is required. What was sold to me was a broken part. We discovered the transformer on the circuit board was cracked all the way through. The zip tie that encircled this transformer was not part of the shipping packaging as we first thought, but rather was someone's way of fixing the part then sold to me as a new part. I am trying to make contact with Spitfire Controls, the manufacturer of my EOC, to see if they can resolve the warranty issue and exchange this broken EOC with a new EOC. But so far no one has returned may message.