PCB Fault? After low battery warning, changed both 12v batteries with new compatable ones. Re assembled unit, having noted all connections, completed all connections, careful not to short out battery terminals etc. Before fitting enclosure and plugging in AC supply, pressed on/off button, immediately blew 24v supply fuse on PCB. Now cannot find where earthing out, fuse blows all time, even, it seems without touching on/off switch. (Perhaps switch is now in on position?)

The basic method is:

1. Dismantle handle.
2. Desolder old battery and other connections from PCB.
3. Remove charging coil, pressure warning light, pressure switch, PCB and battery.
4. Replace battery.
5. Reassemble PCB and other parts.
6. Solder in connections for parts and new battery.
7. Reassemble handle.

https://toothbrushbattery.com/guides/braun-oral-b-professional-care-1000-battery-replacement/

Description
The main thermistor reading does not reach 40C 14 sec after the fixing heater goes ON (fixing low temperature error)

Remedy
1) Wiring Is the connection of the connector (CN8) on the power supply PCB and the connector (J103) on the DC controller PCB and the wiring to the fixing assembly normal? NO : Correct the connection and wiring. 2) Fixing assembly Try replacing the fixing assembly. Is the fault corrected? YES : End. 3) Power supply PCB, DC controller PCB Try repacking the power supply PCB. Is the fault corrected? YES : End. NO : Replace the DC controller PCB. 4) Error With the power switch ON, clear E000 through E004; then, turn off and then on the power switch.

The battery is soldered in. The easiest way to fix your problem is to purchase the part linked below from shaveroutlet.com. It is a complete shaver handle with all internal parts, including battery. It is compatible with your model and all you would need to do is snap your head assembly onto it

http://shaveroutlet.com/philips-norelco-7340xl-lower-unit-replacement-part.html

This is usually caused by low battery power-- as the hand controller reported. DO NOT USE rechargeable batteries they do not have enough volts. Use alkaline batteries only.

This can also be caused by a broken gear or a failed internal motor. You can return these to Meade for repair.

Here is the contact number:
http://www.meade.com/support/index.html

Tries check the tv remote battery compartment for moisture and rust on the remote battery like + - connections inside of the battery compartment?Yes?Take somethings sharp or a knife scrap all the rust out.Take a rag spray some WD40 and clean the + - battery compartment connections.Change another set of a new battery.If after this the tv remote still have the same problems,than the remote itself rubbers inner layer of the rubbers knobs probally warn out and not anymore make correctly contact to the tv remote PCB board anymore or the CPU chip itself it is slowly dying and shorting out of the tv remote CPU,remote devices are heavy dependent on it CPU chips.Or try website like Remotes.com to buy the tv original remote or very closed clone compatible one.

Hello

Check the following:

* Circuit breaker on main control box is tripped
* Fuse blown (check fuse in main control box assembly).
* Incorrect polarity at battery terminals
* Dead batteries.
* Charging cable is still connected to charging receptacle
* One of the cable connections at the main control box is loose.
* Control connection cable disconnected
* Broken key switch
* Throttle stuck fully open
* Throttle control potentiometer broken.
* Speed potentiometer broken
* Battery voltage too low.
* Faulty charging cable.
* Charger not working.
* Charging circuitry in main control box assembly not working


If these check OK, the problem is likely to in the control connection cable or upper control box Verify that the upper control box is getting 24V. (Blue wire on red connector.)

* If the upper control box is not getting 24V, replace control connection cable

* If the upper control box is getting 24V, check key switch operation and verify wiring in the upper control box. Trace voltage from keyswitch on to find where the problem occurs. (Replace upper control box if necessary.)

* Charge batteries with a 12V charger or replace if necessary.

* Ohm test the charging cable - replace if necessary.

* Test scooter with a different charger, if new charger works, replace charger.

* Check wiring in main control box assembly - replace in line relay if necessary
* If batteries, charger, and all wiring is good, replace controller PCB. (Note the model number for the PCB, for example 1208-2330.)

You are correct the Positive (+) is the fuse and the other two (orange in my unit) wires both go to the negative (-). Also your battery should be at least 12V 75AH dry cell with a holding voltage of 14V when charged, a standard battery will not work, the unit will boil it dry. This will give a 5 min run time at 75% load (115V 9A continuous).

I changed the units configuration to use a 12V 750AH wet cell by changing its holding voltage to 13V, adjustable on the charging board (the outer most board when the cover is off that is). By doing this the battery costs about $75 not $140 and I get a run time of 4 hours 30 min. at 75% load. My entire office is floating on this unit. Also this unit will require a house current voltage of 105V-125V on a 15A breaker. Yes house current varies all the time by +-10 volts. and unit will use about 10A when running at 75% and charging. The normal output at full load for this unit: 115V 11A. continuous, ( the computers in my office pull 7A to 9A when they are in use, idling at 4A when not in use. So when the power fails I just keep working.

Another thing to note with the new configuration for a wet cell battery, monitoring software will initially show a low run time of 3 to 5 min., but after the unit runs for about a minute on battery the software will adjust to the real run time. So set low battery shutdown for about 2min and the software will work fine.

Ok a little background about the 1.4KVA Battery Backup from Best Power Tech. When I purchased this unit some time ago, it carried a double lifetime warranty good up to $250,000. Not bad for a $2,000 unit. What that meant was not only would the equipment protected by the unit survive a hit, but the unit will also. So far this unit has handled 17 blackouts, over 40,000 line spikes (Voltage greater than 125) and over 3,000 brownouts (Voltage less than 105) and maintained a constant 115 Volt output. (Sub note here the unit beeps while a brownout is in progress, because the battery is being used to help maintain Voltage.) Also this is the same model used at the Kitt Peak Observatory in Arizona. I was encouraged to call and talk to them about the unit, very impressive track record!

Ray
No Budget Productions

I have a 2006 Honda Civic Hybrid and have had hell with it. I have also learnt much about it too.

One thing bad about the HCH2, is that the 12V battery controls the electronics, and the Hybrid battery charges the 12V battery. However the 12V battery is not charged all the time, and cannot be charged when the IMA is usually being used, and in different scenarios. (Buy a Electronic volt meter which plugs into the 12V adapter $14 Walmart))

It is possible that the 12V battery is being drained while driving and caused a voltage drop which can cause your problem. In your case, I would change the 12V battery anyway as they do not last long on Hybrids. (You may have to get Honda to trip the IMA warning lights.) In my case, changing the 12v battery helped the hybrid battery as it was the electronics reporting the charge level wrong.

Depending where you live, you will have a minimum 80,000 mile warranty on the hybrid battery.

indicates that the center wire for the bulb ( ground wire ) is not connecting back to the metal for the battery ground

Have your supply voltage and frequency checked under load.
/bz