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Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.
These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.
Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.
You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.
Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.
A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.
Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.
On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.
Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.
Flush valves are held to the tank by one large jam nut on the bottom of the tank. Installing a new flush valve usually requires removing the toilet tank from the bowl, which can be rather complicated. However, wall-mounted tanks may not need to be removed.
If the toilet tank must be removed, turn the water off completely, flush the toilet and hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of the tank water. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water. Disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If the flexible riser tube is damaged, replace it.
Then, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange, with nuts beneath. Use caution–forcing the bolts may cause you to break the tank, bowl or both. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads. If they still won't budge without force, try wrapping masking tape around a hacksaw blade and sawing with the teeth facing you, so the blade cuts on the "pull" stroke. The layer of masking tape will protect the bowl's glazed surface from saw scratches.
The tank should now lift away from the bowl. Lay it upside-down on a throw rug or newspaper padding to protect it, and unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank. Use channel-locking pliers plus penetrating oil and extreme care to avoid breakage. Clamp a well-padded locking plier/wrench around the flush valve to keep it from rotating inside the tank.
Install the new flush valve according to the directions. The rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank to prevent leakage. The flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank damage.
Use new brass tank hold-down bolts, which will remain workable. Tighten the bolts just enough to compress the tank's soft rubber gasket and keep it from leaking.
Install the water supply riser to the tank and turn on the water.
By leaking do you mean onto the bathroom floor, or is water escaping out the flush valve (the part that the Hydroright is seated in) into the toilet bowl. If the former 1) check toilet tank mounting bolts/gaskets for deterioration or looseness. These are usually 5/16"x3" brass bolts with rubber, plastic, and metal washers with a nut. They can be seen protruding through bottom of tank. 2) check flush valve and rubber gasket between tank and bowl. The flush valve is the one that the refill tube goes into and the hydroright seats into.
If you are only leaking water into bowl I would suggest the blue dome gasket ( part of Hydroright kit) is not properly seated properly into flushvalve, and you may have to re-install hydroright (the instructions explain how to remove and re-install) . I broke my existing/old flush valve at the base when trying to install my Hydroright so maybe it was fortuitous that it broke and I had to install a new one. Hope this helps.
This indicated that there is dirt of corrosion in the flush valve assembly that get jarred loose and flushed out when turning on the supply valve below. My recommendation is replacing the flush valve assembly with a Fluidmaster flush valve. Be sure to follow the instructions when removing the old valve and installing the new one. If you need step by step instructions, please message me and I will provide them.
If you have a supply shut off to fixture shut it off and disconnect supply line from inlet to toilet . If your supply line to toilet is a flexible line then bend it so that you can direct water to small container. Slowly turn valve on to see what flow rate is at that point. If flow rate is not good then I would shut water off to house and replace valve. If flow rate to toliet is good I would reccomend you replace flush vallve. To do this shut off water supply to toilet. Disconnect supply nut to bottom of flush valve. There will be a retaining nut that holds flush valve in place in toilet tank. Remove flush valve after removing fill tube from flush valve to overflow tube. Replace with toto replacement valve or use Fluidmaster 400A. Instructions on box of 400A are easy to follow and if you have flex connector you won't need supply line washer. I would reccomend that before you install new valve that you put rubber gasket on shank of valve and slid it about halfway up the shaft. Make sure that inside of tank is dry and use a small bead of silicon caulking on top and bottom side of shaft gasket. slid gasket the rest of the way on valve shank,install in tank and put on retaing nut hand tight. Push down on top of valve and using channel lock pliers finish tightening nut securely.You may need to reach into tank and grasp valve body to stop it from turning. There are other things you can do if you have a working supply valve. Shut off valve and remove screws that hold top of valve in place and remove and clean surfaces. You can turn valve on slowly to help flush out any rust or mineral deposits. I hope this is of some help to you. Thanks
First things first, remove the fill valve, and the flush handle mechanism. This will give you plenty of room to work with the flush valve. Before installing flush valve lubricate tabs with plumbers grease. Now put on a pair of work gloves, pushed down very hard and turn the tabs should slide easy because of the grease. Remember do not alter the gasket, the gasket needs to be compressed to do its job. I know removing the fill valve and the flush handle seems like a pain, but there is no way to get your hands in the proper position to install the flush valve assembly.
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